Olight S1 Baton Review

[gunga]

It's a press fit bezel. It's possible but not easy.

 

[KeepingItLight]

Its not doing 1.5+ amps for long.
After 90 seconds on high, the S1 drops to 50% (for 1 hour).

Thanks, Jon. Do you know the details of the step-down? Olight's product description says, "Thermal management safety program with overheat protection by dropping high output by 50% within 1 minute of constant on. Turbo mode has a limit of 1.5 minutes." I recall reading elsewhere that beginning at 1 minute, output ramps downward, finally stopping at 50% at the 90 second mark.

This does not, however, dovetail with the description Olight gives for turbo mode in its ANSI FL 1 specifications. Those show turbo going from 500 lumens to 300 lumens after 90 seconds. By my calculation, that means the step-down is to 60%.

The runtime chart in the OP of this thread shows a bit of of a mix. It supports the 50% number. The step-downs it shows are a combination of not-so-small steps and some ramping. Another interpretation is the sample rate used in the chart measured output once every 15 seconds. The staircases could be an effect of the sampling rate! The following runtime chart does seem to show the reduction beginning at 1 minute and ending at 90 seconds. The blue line is for the S1.

Output measurements

As measured from the data 30 seconds into the runtime test below with an Olight 650 mAh 16340 battery, I've estimated the peak intensity of the S1 at 3410 cd, with a beam distance of 117 m. This is compared to 3030 cd and 110 m for the S10R. Both of these measurements are slightly higher than the manufacturer-reported specifications for the S1 :twothumbs:

Runtime graphs

The legend of foregoing chart says "high" mode, but from the context it seems clear that turbo mode is what is meant.

If you can clarify precisely how the step down in the Olight S1 is executed, and to what level, I would appreciate it.

As to current draw, CPF member prepped measured output in turbo at around 1.8 amps. He did not say what type of battery was used for his measurement. Based on context, and also on PMs I exchanged with him, I believe that was for CR123A. Since he does not say explicitly, however, it is possible that it was for 16340.

I just measured it, and was getting upwards of 1.8 amps.

This does not seem to be overly excessive.

Keep in mind, however, that at least one datasheet I have, the one from Sanyo, defines maximum pulse discharge current to be that current that causes voltage on a fresh CR123A to sag to 1.0 volts in only 15 seconds. Using that definition, Sanyo determined the maximum pulse discharge for its CR123A battery to be 3.0 amps. Other manufacturers publish values between 3.0 and 3.5 amps. It is clear, therefore, that a 2.5 or 3.0 amp draw for 90 seconds cannot be classified as a pulse. That kind of draw must be classified as a continuous current. As such, it exceeds the spec for CR123A.

What about 1.8 amps? I do not want to say that is good for a CR123A cell, but it is close enough to the 1.5-amp spec, that it might not be too bad. I view these current specs somewhat like the red line on a tachometer. Your car engine is not going to explode just because you go a little bit over. On the other hand, repeatedly running your engine above the red line will have long-term consequences. Is the same true of CR123A? If you repeatedly use the 90-second turbo blast during a run of a CR123A battery, will that have a deleterious effect on the cell? Frankly, I do not know. I suspect, however, that it could.

Do any of you experts in the field know the answer to this?

 

[rumack]

recDNA/newbie66 - A big THANK YOU! to you two. I completely forgot about checking on lockout. That was a huge thing to miss. I guess my lust for copper and brass got the better of me. I got my raw copper S1s after Christmas, but that was too late for me so I sent them back. I was thinking about getting a brass S1 to get the NW until I saw your comments about the lack of lockout. That kills it for me. I know several people have said they have not had any accidental activations but I would still be concerned about it.

 

[LightMagic]

1) Whats the best battery for S1 baton?
2) Why do people rave about AW RCR123?
3) Can AW RCR123 be used in S1 baton?
4) Where can i buy AW RCR123?

5) Finally why does AW RCR123 not have the 'A' at the end?
6) also read that AW has discontinued it?


7) Should i just get the Nitecore RCR123A? 2 for $10 on GB. Or 1 Olight RCR123A for $3.95 on battery junction?

 

[Joe Talmadge]

1) Whats the best battery for S1 baton?
2) Why do people rave about AW RCR123?
3) Can AW RCR123 be used in S1 baton?
4) Where can i buy AW RCR123?

5) Finally why does AW RCR123 not have the 'A' at the end?
6) also read that AW has discontinued it?


7) Should i just get the Nitecore RCR123A? 2 for $10 on GB. Or 1 Olight RCR123A for $3.95 on battery junction?

LightMagic:

You're asking super newbie questions -- that's good! Everyone was there once, and it's good you're not plunging in without learning a little first. Perhaps the most important thing for you to know is: ICR Li Ion batteries -- that's what we're talking about, when we're saying RCR123 -- are no joke, they are energy dense, and if not treated with respect, they have caused fires and turned flashlights into mini pipe bombs. It's not difficult to learn the proper care and handling, but do head over to the Batteries forum here and do some reading, both on the cells and on chargers. To answer some of your questions:

5) Finally why does AW RCR123 not have the 'A' at the end? When people say CR123A, they are talking about primary (non-rechargeable) lithium batteries. When we say 16340 or RCR123 (no "A" at the end, although Nitecore has taken to putting an A, which I think is a mistake), we are talking about lithium ion secondary (rechargeable) batteries

7) Should i just get the Nitecore RCR123A? 2 for $10 on GB. Or 1 Olight RCR123A for $3.95 on battery junction? AWs were at one time only one of a very few handful of QUALITY li ion batteries, and there's years of good experiences with AWs to back that up. These days, there are many manufacturers of acceptable-quality li ions, and both the Nitecore and Olight seem to have good track records. Most of my 16340s are AW, but I recently bought some Nitecores

Make sure you get yourself a good charger, that has been tested by someone in the CPF batteries forum and uses the proper charging algorithm, including proper charge termination. And mind the safety rules, including: charge li ion batteries in the same room you're in, on a non-flammable surface, and disconnect the charger as soon as the light turns green (or whatever your charger's termination signal is)

 

[LightMagic]

LightMagic:

You're asking super newbie questions -- that's good! Everyone was there once, and it's good you're not plunging in without learning a little first. Perhaps the most important thing for you to know is: ICR Li Ion batteries -- that's what we're talking about, when we're saying RCR123 -- are no joke, they are energy dense, and if not treated with respect, they have caused fires and turned flashlights into mini pipe bombs. It's not difficult to learn the proper care and handling, but do head over to the Batteries forum here and do some reading, both on the cells and on chargers. To answer some of your questions:

5) Finally why does AW RCR123 not have the 'A' at the end? When people say CR123A, they are talking about primary (non-rechargeable) lithium batteries. When we say 16340 or RCR123 (no "A" at the end, although Nitecore has taken to putting an A, which I think is a mistake), we are talking about lithium ion secondary (rechargeable) batteries

7) Should i just get the Nitecore RCR123A? 2 for $10 on GB. Or 1 Olight RCR123A for $3.95 on battery junction? AWs were at one time only one of a very few handful of QUALITY li ion batteries, and there's years of good experiences with AWs to back that up. These days, there are many manufacturers of acceptable-quality li ions, and both the Nitecore and Olight seem to have good track records. Most of my 16340s are AW, but I recently bought some Nitecores

Make sure you get yourself a good charger, that has been tested by someone in the CPF batteries forum and uses the proper charging algorithm, including proper charge termination. And mind the safety rules, including: charge li ion batteries in the same room you're in, on a non-flammable surface, and disconnect the charger as soon as the light turns green (or whatever your charger's termination signal is)

Thank you!!!!

I have Nitecore D4 charger, just saw a youtube vid showing Nitecore RC123A being little fatter than Olight. http://youtu.be/_PyRaBy_a4M
At 1:10


I think i will stick with Olight RC123A for now, same spec and like you said these days both are good.

 

[royalpig180]

Can those with this light recommend a rechargeable cell for it?

I would like to use a protected cell, such as an Olight RCR123, but I saw there was some speculation/observations earlier in this thread that this light's turbo mode exceeds the maximum safe discharge for any rechargeable that's not an IMR. However, IMR's are always unprotected, correct?
I'd love to hear what others are using in theirs and what you'd recommend for me, given that I would like to use a protected cell in mine.

 

[tops2]

Can those with this light recommend a rechargeable cell for it?

I would like to use a protected cell, such as an Olight RCR123, but I saw there was some speculation/observations earlier in this thread that this light's turbo mode exceeds the maximum safe discharge for any rechargeable that's not an IMR. However, IMR's are always unprotected, correct?
I'd love to hear what others are using in theirs and what you'd recommend for me, given that I would like to use a protected cell in mine.

I use the Olight RCR123 and have no problems. Admittedly I rarely use turbo but have used it for extended time a few times. I don't have much data on runtimes either, but I don't have any problems.

 

[wolfgaze]

Can those with this light recommend a rechargeable cell for it?

I'm using the Eagletac 750 mAh RCR123.... I ordered 3 of them directly from the U.S. Distributor.... As far as I could tell, many of the other RCR123's on the market are 650 mAh capacity....

 

[vadimax]

I use mine with the original Olight's RCR123A 650 mAh and it lasts forever as I need mostly ML and Low modes. I possess it may be a month, charged it only once -- before inserting into the light.

 

[Skaaphaas]

I use the Nitecore RCR123. Also 650 mah.

Lasts longer than I expected, to be honest.

 

[tops2]

For some reason with this light, I find the low mode to be plenty bright for most of my usage. I like the medium mode too but it's too bright for my usage. It lasts a long time on low as vadimax mentions.

 

[Destroid Monster]

Please note that there is a 'spare' magnet in the box. Its hotglued to the roof of the smaller compartment of the box that house the lanyard. The magnet help to keep the flashight upright during transportation.

 

[ateupwithgolf]

I have the regular S1 and I liked it so much I also just received the titanium version. Man, this Ti version is sweet! Love the neutral beam, the titanium finish is gorgeous, and the copper bezel is a nice touch. Of course, it was nearly 3x what I gave for the regular S1 on group buy, but well worth it to me. I like this exact size for EDC, and I wanted something a little more upscale as far as fit and finish, and had to have a neutral tint now that I've got a SC63w and an Eagletac m30L3c Nichia. I won't go back to cool white!

 

[tops2]

I have the regular S1 and I liked it so much I also just received the titanium version. Man, this Ti version is sweet! Love the neutral beam, the titanium finish is gorgeous, and the copper bezel is a nice touch. Of course, it was nearly 3x what I gave for the regular S1 on group buy, but well worth it to me. I like this exact size for EDC, and I wanted something a little more upscale as far as fit and finish, and had to have a neutral tint now that I've got a SC63w and an Eagletac m30L3c Nichia. I won't go back to cool white!

*Must*ignore*comments*

lol. I love my S1 a lot too (especially for EDC), but always wished it was neutral white. Then I see the comments about the special edition having neutral white options and get sooo tempted!

Edit: Forgot to ask. How do you find the low level and moon light level compared with the cool white. I remember reading something about how neutral white levels may appear (much?) less bright than cool white level. But at higher levels, its pretty close.

 

[ateupwithgolf]

*Must*ignore*comments*

lol. I love my S1 a lot too (especially for EDC), but always wished it was neutral white. Then I see the comments about the special edition having neutral white options and get sooo tempted!

Edit: Forgot to ask. How do you find the low level and moon light level compared with the cool white. I remember reading something about how neutral white levels may appear (much?) less bright than cool white level. But at higher levels, its pretty close.

I haven't compared the two on moonlight, but I will try to tonight.

 

[Tachead]

I just cant warm up to this light myself. How do you guys get past the terrible clip, stiff switch, and lack of electronic lockout(lack of mechanical lockout on the special editions too)? For me, the clip is one of the most important features on a purpose designed EDC light like this and this clip is just so terrible. I wanted to like this light but, compared to the Zebralight SC32w and Eagletac D25C NW/Nichia 219 for instance this light just falls short in so many ways. Hopefully they will come out with a revised edition in the future with fixes for the many shortcomings I find this light has. I would like to see the following upgrades:

1. Neutral white option for base aluminum model(High CRI option would be great too)
2. Better clip design with no pocked snag(preferably screwed on in the preferred bezel down orientation)
3. Easier to push electronic switch that is more recessed to prevent accidental activation
4. Electronic lockout feature like other Olights
5. Voltage readout and/or low voltage warning
6. Memory mode for all modes including Turbo with no stupid 10 minute reset
7. Option for either TIR or reflector/glass lens

 

[jdhermit]

Tachead- I'm with you, but we seem to be in the minority! I've relegated mine to a "clip it to my baseball cap" light for working around the house.
Too short also, IMHO.
While not 100% perfect! I've moved on to an SC5 for my main pocket light.

 

[eraursls1984]

1. Neutral white option for base aluminum model(High CRI option would be great too)
2. Better clip design with no pocked snag(preferably screwed on in the preferred bezel down orientation)
3. Easier to push electronic switch that is more recessed to prevent accidental activation
4. Electronic lockout feature like other Olights
5. Voltage readout and/or low voltage warning
6. Memory mode for all modes including Turbo with no stupid 10 minute reset
7. Option for either TIR or reflector/glass lens

1. I agree, neutral and warm ALL THE LIGHTS!
2. A screw on clip in the bezel down configuration would make me feel comfortable using the clip
3. I thought the S1 button was recessed past the button bezel ring(not the boot/cover)?
4. This one is personal preference. I hate electronic lockout, and avoid most lights with it.
5. Would be nice.
6. I think their current UI with moonlight, turbo, and one memorized L-M-H from off is nearly perfect. It's in the top three UI's for EDC IMO right up there with Zebralight's UI and rotary.
7. S1=TIR, S10=Reflector.

With all that said it's hard to complain when the aluminum model can be had for $26.

 

[tops2]

This light I bought after a lot of research so I was aware of the negatives and was ok with when I bought it. I'm not being super picky about the negatives since I was ok with it.

1. Also wished there was an option for neutral white for aluminum.

2. The clip I can live with. I don't like the last bit right before you get it fully on..but it only affects certain pants of mine. I initially didn't like the clip with bezel up..but I've actually grown to like it on this light. Seems less chance for my keys to scratch the optics. Side benefit to me is sometimes I'll just turn it on in my pockets and have the light shoot out the top of my pockets if I just need a little light for a minute.

3. The button isn't as stiff as when I first got it. Does make me think about long term durability..but if it does eventually break..I guess I'll be forced to buy another light... ;-)
I do find it easier to press with my index finger than my thumb.

5. Would be nice to have at least the same voltage readout like my Zebralight.

6. I wish there was no memory and always comes on in low. Thought that's what they changed it to but mine has mode memory for the LMH levels.

The rest of the points I don't care about. The only 2 more picky things for me is the tint option and the last bit of the clip. But like I said, I accepted these 2 items before bought and the group buy price is great. That combined with the size, weight and (personally) good level spacing is why I love this light.


I did peek at the Zebralight SC32 after getting the Olight S1 and it looks pretty good too. But personally, I prefer the smaller diameter on the S1 for EDC. Personally, I'd just EDC my Zebralight SC5w if I'm fine with the larger diameter.