Opening the A2L - Help with light engine.

Inliner

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 27, 2008
Messages
185
Location
AZ
This is my first Surefire mod. The hard part is over... I think. I assumed that the light engine would just fall out once the lower bezel section was removed, but that's not the case. Something is still holding it into the main part of the head. I can't tell if it's a lock ring, epoxy, or what. The reflector also appears to be machined as part of the head so there's not much happening on that end. Any suggestions as to how to continue? Goal is to get a high CRI P4 swapped in.

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Looks like an interesting problem.

I'm not sure, as I don't own an A2L, but I can say from previous experience that Surefire LOVES Loctite. It may be worthwhile to put the head back together and make sure it's sealed, then heat the whole thing up in some boiling water and see if you can twist out from the rear.
 
It looks like it's 90% undone.

The plastic should be a separate part which houses the driver circuit. There is probably a metal heatsink for the LED behind the plastic and some wires between the two materials.

My initial thought would be that the plastic base should just pop off since threading would twist the wires between the board and the LED. However, I would start by looking closely between the plastic base and metal head (seems like there is a decent gap there) to see if there is anything resembling starting/ending threads, a snap/spring ring (metal ring with a gap), or maybe pins and notches (like a bayonet type light socket).

Since the threaded metal part you removed from the bottom of the head looks like it retains the plastic base part, a second securing method would be redundant and overkill for a non-strained part that has no thermal function. Since the plastic is not something that can be replaced perhaps someone with a successful disassembly of this model will chime in with a proper method to separate those parts.

Another observation I just had looking at the photos is that the plastic base has 4 angled notches near the battery contact. It's possible Surefire uses a special tool that fits in those notches to help grip the heatsink and plastic driver assembly to thread them into the head.
 
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Thanks for the ideas guys. At the moment, I've struck a deal with Milky and the light is off to him. I'm a little bummed though that I couldn't carry on more myself. Maybe Milky will share? :poke:
 
Heat heat and more heat. This idea made me anxious about over heating Surefire heads but in a fit of frustration I took a propane torch to an e series head and opened it with minimal impact on its insides. Also don't be afraid to pry a little. If you haven't already pry where the red arrow is in the direction of the yellow arrows.
 
Long story but there was a change of plans and I'm waiting on Scott to finish getting an Acorn driver fitted to it.

However, I've since modded some KL4 heads which are nearly identical. I'm pretty sure that the resistance I was feeling is the use of surprisingly stiff wire between the driver and the LED. The A2L would have more wires, I imagine, making it extra stiff.
 
Long story but there was a change of plans and I'm waiting on Scott to finish getting an Acorn driver fitted to it.

However, I've since modded some KL4 heads which are nearly identical. I'm pretty sure that the resistance I was feeling is the use of surprisingly stiff wire between the driver and the LED. The A2L would have more wires, I imagine, making it extra stiff.

Keep us posted! :popcorn:
 
Curious to see how this is going. Has anyone successfully opened an A2L head? Being able to change the 3mm LEDs and Seoul P4 would make it a really neat light!
 
Curious to see how this is going. Has anyone successfully opened an A2L head? Being able to change the 3mm LEDs and Seoul P4 would make it a really neat light!


I've got Inliner's opened and very nearly finished. It's a good bit different now, though from the outside it will still look stock.
 
I've got Inliner's opened and very nearly finished. It's a good bit different now, though from the outside it will still look stock.

Sweet!

:wave: Scott,
can you post a picture of the opened head? I'm curious to see which part needed to be separated to access the LEDs. Thanks for all your effort and help!

:grin2: :grin2: :grin2:
 
Resurrecting this thread to see if anyone has managed to save the pictures, or have record of their own attempts to open up an A2L.
 
I've head some luck with web archive - if nobody saved them. Worst case scenario though ;)
 
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