P7 CSW0J vs CSXOI and DSXOJ for direct drive

[737mechanic]

I need to order a couple P7 emitters and am real confused now and need some help.

I have read and read and can not figure out what the real difference is. I have read that the vF are different and the tint but it would be nice to see a chart or something that had the differences laid out in black and white.

I would like the whitest tint and the best candidate for a direct driven light.

Can you guys lead me in the right direction.

 

[LEDninja]

SSC colour chart:

C-SW0-J vs C-SXO-I and D-SXO-J

D (800.0~900.0 lumen at 2.8A) is slightly brighter than C (700.0~800.0 lumen at 2.8A) for the same current input.

SXO is more of a cool white, SWO is more of a creamy white. See colour chart above.

I is 3.25 to 3.50 Vf. J is 3.50 to 3.75 Vf.
A freshly charged Li-ion battery is 4.2V. It should be recharged at 3.6V. It will be damaged if run to below 2.7V.
J Vf is closer to what the battery can produce, less chance of frying the LED.

I would decide on the tint I like first. If it is the warmer one pick the CSWOJ, if it is the cooler one pick the DXOJ.

You can download the data sheet from here:
http://www.seoulsemicon.com/en/product/prd/zpowerLEDp7.asp
You may have to remove the .html from the links (so the file ends with .pdf before adobe reader will open it. (depends on your browser)

 

[DM51]

Can you guys lead me in the right direction.

Yes, we can do that. I'm leading you to the LED section right now, by moving your thread there.

 

[737mechanic]

Cool thanks DM51 you are like a real life super hero but I would have to say that LEDninja was a lot more help in this case.

So thanks to LEDninja I now realize that the first letter represents the bin code, then the middle three represent the tint and I guess the last is the Vf. I don't know why I didnt pick up on the first letter being the bin code.

So what is considered to be the kelvin range for the most desirable shade of light or does it depend on the person.

 

[DM51]

I would have to say that LEDninja was a lot more help in this case

LOL, agreed!

 

[LEDninja]

So what is considered to be the kelvin range for the most desirable shade of light or does it depend on the person.

It depends on the person. Some people won't give up their incans. because they like the warm tint. Others stick with LEDs because they like the cooler tint. The difference between the SXO and SWO is quite minor though.

SXO (SSC) = XO (Lumileds) = WC (Cree) more or less.
SWO (SSC) = WO (Lumileds) = WD (Cree) more or less.
So if you have a less bright LED with a known bin tint, it might help you decide.

 

[Curt R]

Using protected cells only and with the "I" voltage bin, the current drive output from a RCR123A battery starts out at 1.48 amps to the P7 LED and then after a few minutes it settles in at 1 amp and declines to .75 amp at the end of the battery power output. The 18500 and 18650 output to the LED is 2.45 amps. The 18650 battery is an older 1800 mAh unit. I do not know if a 2600 or 3000 mAh unit would make a difference in the current drive output to the P7 LED. However a single small protected Lithium-Ion battery should not be harmful to the P7. The FR series of flashlights drive the P7 at 3.4 amps. I would not be in favor of using unprotected cells or the ultra high performance output cells such as the AW IMRs in a direct drive situation.

Curt

 

[moviles]

SSC colour chart:

C-SW0-J vs C-SXO-I and D-SXO-J

D (800.0~900.0 lumen at 2.8A) is slightly brighter than C (700.0~800.0 lumen at 2.8A) for the same current input.

SXO is more of a cool white, SWO is more of a creamy white. See colour chart above.

I is 3.25 to 3.50 Vf. J is 3.50 to 3.75 Vf.
A freshly charged Li-ion battery is 4.2V. It should be recharged at 3.6V. It will be damaged if run to below 2.7V.
J Vf is closer to what the battery can produce, less chance of frying the LED.

I would decide on the tint I like first. If it is the warmer one pick the CSWOJ, if it is the cooler one pick the DXOJ.

You can download the data sheet from here:
http://www.seoulsemicon.com/en/product/prd/zpowerLEDp7.asp
You may have to remove the .html from the links (so the file ends with .pdf before adobe reader will open it. (depends on your browser)

nice colour chart table :thumbsup:

for me the best its the D-SXO-I I like cool white and the D-SXO-I its maybe more efficient:

D-SXO-I 3.25 to 3.50 Vf x 2.8 amp 9.1-9.8 w and max 900 lum max efficiency :99 lum/w (900/9.1)

D-SXO-j 3.50 to 3.75 Vf. x 2.8 amp 9.8- 10.5w and max 900lum max efficiency :91 lum/w (900/9.8)

but current draw dd with D-SXO-I maybe will be more than you wish.

if dont overdrive the p7 its important for you maybe you must chose j vf bin

 

[sadtimes]

D"I" Bin = 3.25 to 3.50

I prefer the "I" bin for a Direct Drive Mag... I use 3 Nimh's and hot off the charger I have no problems...

 

[Greg G]

I've had SWO and SVO and the SWO seems just a little blue-ish, the SVO is really nice.

Photonfanatic has, or had, some DSVNI P7's in the marketplace that should be about like the SVO's. That's what I would go for.

 

[Linger]

+1 pm the creamy white for PhotonFanatic's svn, but check the thread in the market place for real beamshots to see the actual colour.

+1 for downloading the spec sheet and learning what all this stuff is about. Read it several times, they are always laid out the same, and each sheet contains a legend indicating what the terms and order codes mean.

+1 for DM51 being a superhero:scowl: and organizing the chaos we put on these boards each day

 

[jbmtnbiker]

OK,

I am a newb at this so here goes.:wave:

For a bike light would the dsxoj be best since it seems it would have a higher minimum lumen output and a cool white color which I prefer? I am trying to get my ducks in a row to build a 3x P7 light for night riding.

Also if anyone can tell me the best source for optics...I have been searching ad nausium which just fries my little newb electronic brain further. :tinfoil:

JB