P7 Mag using a single Emoli Cell?

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I have been checking out the forums posts for P7's and have yet to find somebody using Emoli cells in theirs. From what I read, they will fit in some older C body Mag's. I was thinking about building a single cell C body Mag P7 using the Emoli cell (with a tail switch), but have some reservations. It seems like direct drive is the way to go, but I may do a regulated setup, would that work with a single Emoli cell? Is there something else I need to consider with even a direct drive setup and the Emoli?

Also, any info on the Emoli's would be cool, I recall reading a long time ago that they were a safer technology, and I know they are built with much tougher than normal cases (steel). Do they also have the special liners to prevent runaway reactions?
 
I'm using one C sized emoli in a Ledean 1D Mag with great results. The P7 is one of photonfanatics fine CSXOI emitters http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=180106. Driven by one of netkidz/stefanfs' modded multimode 7135 drivers http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=195358. Reflector is a DX' P7 OP http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13803. The stock mag reflector throws farther but shows objectionable (in my opinion) artifacts.

Left is stock mag reflector with P7 slightly defocussed to emphasize the artifacts. Right is my ultrafire C2 direct drive P7 with stock op reflector.
MagP7StockReflectorleftC2P7right.jpg


Left is Mag P7 with DX op reflector. Right is C2 P7 with stock op reflector.
MagP7DXReflectorleftC2P7right.jpg
 
I have been checking out the forums posts for P7's and have yet to find somebody using Emoli cells in theirs. From what I read, they will fit in some older C body Mag's. I was thinking about building a single cell C body Mag P7 using the Emoli cell (with a tail switch), but have some reservations. It seems like direct drive is the way to go, but I may do a regulated setup, would that work with a single Emoli cell? Is there something else I need to consider with even a direct drive setup and the Emoli?

Also, any info on the Emoli's would be cool, I recall reading a long time ago that they were a safer technology, and I know they are built with much tougher than normal cases (steel). Do they also have the special liners to prevent runaway reactions?

Here is an absolutely gorgeous cut down Mag Chris MacClellan made that uses a 26700 E-Moli.
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=191836

BatteryUniversity partone-5A has some interesting reads about this newer type cell. E-Moli cells have a slightly higher voltage, 3.8 vs 3.7 volts. They have lower internal resistance than cobalt-based Li-Ion's. That's why they are able to handle sustained charge and discharge rates at least 10 times higher than regular cobalt Li-Ion's. The lower internal resistance might suggest under heavy drain (2.8 amps from a P7), the voltage the battery puts out might be slightly higher than from a cobalt Li-Ion. That would of course make the LED draw more power. I haven't seen anything specifically saying this, but it's possible you can't use a spinel Li-Ion without a regulator on a P7, i.e. direct drive not possible. Certainly worth looking into. Also check out partone-5B. They say there spinel can take 100°C higher temp than a cobalt Li-Ion can before becoming thermally unstable. There's your safer technology.
http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-5A.htm

All that aside, I saw another post here on CPF where someone said his "I" voltage P7 drew slightly higher than 4 amps when he put three freshly charged NiMH D cells in his 3D MagLite. He didn't care that was cutting the 50,000 hour life span down to a few hundred hours. It would give him a good excuse to upgrade in a few months when something better comes along. If a MoliCel works OK direct drive with a P7, it'll definitely be the brightest on the block.

Manganese dioxide Li-Ion's do have slightly less capacity than cobalt. E-Moli's spinel type 18650 has a capacity of 1,400 mAh and the 26700 is 2,900 mAh. BTW, will 26 mm even fit in a C cell MagLite? Even if you stripped off the plastic which I guess you could do if you're using only 1 battery, it still might need boring out. E-Moli sells both manganese dioxide and cobalt type batteries. Look at the constant current discharge graphs of the ICR18650J and compare it to the IMR18650E. The manganese dioxide "power cell" at 5 amps puts out at least 0.3 volts more than the cobalt "energy cell" does on the 4.8 amps discharge curve. Hard to tell from these graphs how these two cells would behave at 2.8 amps.

E-Moli has a note on the page saying since these cells have no protection circuits, they're only for sale to OEM guys who assemble packs with proper balancers and protection circuits. Imagine a thermal runaway in a battery 26 x 70 mm.
http://www.molienergy.bc.ca/products.html

What about an A123 26650? At 3.3 volts and 2.3 Ah capacity, nanophosphate is a lower voltage than manganese dioxide. With an I voltage LED having a range of 3.25 to 3.5 volts, A123's might be perfect for direct drive of a P7. They can be drained to almost zero volts with no damage to the battery. No possibility of its venting with flames either.
http://www.a123systems.com/#/products/p1
 
Wow, thanks for the great info. It sounds like the Emoli's are tough but don't have a safety net. I wonder if I could hard wire a protection circuit into the light since it should be the same as a Cobalt L-ion cell. I still am leaning towards a Emoli cell for the added benefits, though I could use one of my 18650 cells to test with since that is proven and it will certainly fit in a C body.

I had considered using A123 cells (would be preferred), but I don't think it will be bright enough. I found this interesting video on Youtube which shows a huge difference between 3.2v and 3.7v inputs:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=R77Z9qfCKm8

I think an Emoli will fit (possibly with some honing). I have 3 A123 M1 cells in a 4C MAG with a hight temp socket and there is some wiggle room (used a brake hone). I also have some older 2C mags which have a larger ID (so may not need honing).

I also cannot believe that I forgot about the awesome little green monster from Mac. That was my subconscious inspiration for buying a P7 emitter in the first place :D

Thanks Shakeylegs, I think I will follow your path since I would like to have it regulated and the modes are a bonus.
 
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Wow, thanks for the great info. It sounds like the Emoli's are tough but don't have a safety net. I wonder if I could hard wire a protection circuit into the light since it should be the same as a Cobalt L-ion cell.

The overcharge and discharge voltage levels would be the same, but what about the 15C rate? A123's don't require protection circuits.

I had considered using A123 cells (would be preferred), but I don't think it will be bright enough. I found this interesting video on Youtube which shows a huge difference between 3.2v and 3.7v inputs:

Speaking of different, my CSXPI from the FenixStore hit 2.8 amps at 3.289 volts. I used a power supply at work to figure out my LED's vF. The guy in your video only had 2 amps at 3.5 volts. That's the beauty of a constant current regulator. I wish I had one. I used a 0.1 ohm resistor. I get 2.8 amps from 3 freshly charged MiMH D cells. It drops down to about 2.1 amps as the cell voltage drops.

I also cannot believe that I forgot about the awesome little green monster from Mac. That was my subconscious inspiration for buying a P7 emitter in the first place :D

What's a little green monster?
 
Thanks Al for pointing out that the Emoli's can also dump a good deal of current. I think therefore I should use a mod'ed DX driver like the one posted below (I like the option of different modes too), and maybe throw in a polyswitch or fuse in the tail cap (where the switch will also be so it will be tight). Either that or I will go with a DX 18650 cell if the M1 emoli will not fit comfortably in a C body (maybe with some honing). Since I don't have an Emoli I will probably built it for an M1 size Emoli and use a 18650 cell in the mean time.

The little green monster I was referring to was the cut down lime green P7 Mag you linked to (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=191836). That is a really sweet looking mod which really got me interested in a P7 light. I had totally forgotten that it used an Emoli cell.
 
The little green monster I was referring to was the cut down lime green P7 Mag you linked to. That is a really sweet looking mod which really got me interested in a P7 light. I had totally forgotten that it used an Emoli cell.

Oops, my bad. Yeah that is a really beautiful light. I wished I had some extra cash when he offered 4 of them for sale in the B/S/T forum for $260. It had a Tri-Flupic instead of direct drive and used AW C Li-Ion but essentially the same as that lime green beauty.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=198117
 
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