JoeSantora
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Has anyone had any luck in modding any of the older 4d and 8d cell dive lights to use LEDs?
Joe
Joe
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Pelican Dive lights
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JoeSantora
Newly Enlightened
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Re: Prlican Dive lites
I did some diging and it looks like pelican now says that the older lights shouldn't be used for scuba. When I bought them they said they were OK to use as dive lights. The box's even say "waterproof to 500ft". Do I now have four "unused" non-dive dive lights?
I did some diging and it looks like pelican now says that the older lights shouldn't be used for scuba. When I bought them they said they were OK to use as dive lights. The box's even say "waterproof to 500ft". Do I now have four "unused" non-dive dive lights?
Klem
Enlightened
Re: Prlican Dive lites
The manufacturer is probably protecting themselves against warranty claims given they would be only too well aware plastic products break-down over time (accelerated by UV sunlight).
Why don't you take one diving and see what happens? The result will be either :thumbsup:, or :thumbsdow. The alternative is that you don't, and you'll definitely be if you do that.
The manufacturer is probably protecting themselves against warranty claims given they would be only too well aware plastic products break-down over time (accelerated by UV sunlight).
Why don't you take one diving and see what happens? The result will be either :thumbsup:, or :thumbsdow. The alternative is that you don't, and you'll definitely be
if you do that.rufusbduck
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Re: Prlican Dive lites
I have done 2 mods to pelican lights. Both work great. The first, a 3-c saber light, and the second an 8-d King-D.
The saber, which originally used a xenon spot, I modded to run an mce from 3 Nimh c-cells and a p-7 multimode driver. 35 mm optics are perfec. I have recently swapped in an 8x 7135 mm driver and an XML. The driver is located at the bottom of the tube with flat 4 copper strips providing battery neg to the driver(2strips) and led+ and led-(other 2 strips). Led heat sink is a copper slug cut up and reattatched to keep electrically isolated. With the new 24 mm round now available from cutter, I may opt for a 4x -xpg 2s2p or even a triple XML on a 32mm board (would have to file the board down to ~30mm).
One thing to remember about dive lights is that in cold water you want to keep the batteries WARM to maintain runtime. Saw a graph that showed maximum draw from the cells at 50*c!
Much more on the King-D next post.
Scott
I have done 2 mods to pelican lights. Both work great. The first, a 3-c saber light, and the second an 8-d King-D.
The saber, which originally used a xenon spot, I modded to run an mce from 3 Nimh c-cells and a p-7 multimode driver. 35 mm optics are perfec. I have recently swapped in an 8x 7135 mm driver and an XML. The driver is located at the bottom of the tube with flat 4 copper strips providing battery neg to the driver(2strips) and led+ and led-(other 2 strips). Led heat sink is a copper slug cut up and reattatched to keep electrically isolated. With the new 24 mm round now available from cutter, I may opt for a 4x -xpg 2s2p or even a triple XML on a 32mm board (would have to file the board down to ~30mm).
One thing to remember about dive lights is that in cold water you want to keep the batteries WARM to maintain runtime. Saw a graph that showed maximum draw from the cells at 50*c!
Much more on the King-D next post.
Scott
rufusbduck
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This ones for you, Georges.
The King-D is a kitchen sink mod; I threw everything at it. First it has a magnet molded into a thumb-slide on the handle rail behind the power switch. The magnet actuated a reed switch that functions as a momentary switch for a hip flex driver. The original switch was replaced with a higher current dpdt switch which A. Powers the driver from either pole and B. controls which of 2 led circuis are enabled. One circuit has 4 mce with 25^ lenses. The other has 3 3xq5 32mm pcbs from Cutter 3s3p with ledil cute-3 smooth spot optics. It is powered by 30, yes I said 30 4/5 sub-c cells in 15s2p arrangement. There are 8 "sticks" each with a deans connector epoxied to one end that plug into a molded base which has the wires and male deans imbedded. This molded base is formed to the bottom (with the lens pointed up) of the case and has 4 copper strips that go up the sides to a 1" wide x dia. of case copper ring that the dpdt switch attached and located so that the original plastic 2-way switch controls it. The LEDs are mounted on a triple layer of copped sheet that rests on the ring and has a 1 1/4" copper pipe cap centered on the underside. Imbedded in the center of the epoxy deans base is a matching cap with the deans forming a ring around it. Between the caps is a sealed copper tube with a removable plug(add water if not in water). Mounted on the side of this tube is the hipflex driver, the reed switch in epoxy, and another push button mom switch for programming ease. My first attempt at wiring this monster was a spectacular failure (insulation melted, short, POOF) but with perseverance and thicker wires and some disconnects to make it a bit more modular it works! This thing took the better part of a year to build as there were many obsticles to overcome.
Scott
The King-D is a kitchen sink mod; I threw everything at it. First it has a magnet molded into a thumb-slide on the handle rail behind the power switch. The magnet actuated a reed switch that functions as a momentary switch for a hip flex driver. The original switch was replaced with a higher current dpdt switch which A. Powers the driver from either pole and B. controls which of 2 led circuis are enabled. One circuit has 4 mce with 25^ lenses. The other has 3 3xq5 32mm pcbs from Cutter 3s3p with ledil cute-3 smooth spot optics. It is powered by 30, yes I said 30 4/5 sub-c cells in 15s2p arrangement. There are 8 "sticks" each with a deans connector epoxied to one end that plug into a molded base which has the wires and male deans imbedded. This molded base is formed to the bottom (with the lens pointed up) of the case and has 4 copper strips that go up the sides to a 1" wide x dia. of case copper ring that the dpdt switch attached and located so that the original plastic 2-way switch controls it. The LEDs are mounted on a triple layer of copped sheet that rests on the ring and has a 1 1/4" copper pipe cap centered on the underside. Imbedded in the center of the epoxy deans base is a matching cap with the deans forming a ring around it. Between the caps is a sealed copper tube with a removable plug(add water if not in water). Mounted on the side of this tube is the hipflex driver, the reed switch in epoxy, and another push button mom switch for programming ease. My first attempt at wiring this monster was a spectacular failure (insulation melted, short, POOF) but with perseverance and thicker wires and some disconnects to make it a bit more modular it works! This thing took the better part of a year to build as there were many obsticles to overcome.
Scott
