jackbombay
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2011
- Messages
- 39
25 lumen low? Looks like a great light, but it needs a way lower low.
Penlight Recommendation
- Thread starter lumenaddict14
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
25 lumen low? Looks like a great light, but it needs a way lower low.
HotWire
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2011
- Messages
- 1,651
I EDC a Preon 2. I love that light. Switch failed once. Fixed with copper tape. Otherwise 100% reliable. I understand they have a new switch.
I have been using my new 46 lumin Streamlight Stylus Pro and I can recommend it. It is PLENTY bright and has good throw. It is made in USA with a good warranty and works great. I don't need or want any more. I suggest getting one of these first and seeing if you want anything else. There is a reason it is the class leader right now. Dang good light that I am super happy with.
The one and only thing I would like is a rubber bite ring a la the Terralux.
The one and only thing I would like is a rubber bite ring a la the Terralux.
Paolos
Newly Enlightened
Wow, there's a whole lotta love for the preon 2. It's a nice looking light, but the numbers don't really work for me. 160 lumens is really bright, but it comes at the expense of runtime. For me personally, 45 minutes just isn't good enough. I think the ld05 has a better compromise, but I don't know why fenix don't upgrade the led. Surely an r5 would give a better output for longer than an r2
I'm quite intrigued by the terralux 80. Only one mode of 80 lumens, but it's got a fantastic runtime - 5hours if the figures are to be believed. Plus it's pretty cheap. Anyone got one and can give their thoughts?
I'm quite intrigued by the terralux 80. Only one mode of 80 lumens, but it's got a fantastic runtime - 5hours if the figures are to be believed. Plus it's pretty cheap. Anyone got one and can give their thoughts?
Itinifni
Newly Enlightened
I just picked up the Terralux 80 a few weeks ago and I'm impressed. The beam has a well defined hot spot with plenty of spill. Only a single mode but I've confirmed over 5 hours runtime on 850 mAh NiMH batteries so the single mode isn't an issue for me. The switch is a forward clicky. It doesn't have the perfect beam of the pricier lights but for $20 it's hard to beat.
You do realize that you're not going to get 80 lumens for 5 straight hours of runtime, right?
Also, initial output is likely to be less than 80 lumens out the front. TerraLux makes drop-ins. Their lights are made for them. Those 80 lumens are likely measured at the emitter instead. It's a good, inexpensive, light. But if you're expecting 80 lumens of output for 5 continuous hours, you're going to be disappointed.
Shooter21
Enlightened
love my Ti Preon 2 its always in my shirt pocket.
Shooter21
Enlightened
i love the tint on my preon 2 it's so white and creamy, its one of the best tints I've seen with an xpg emitter it almost looks neutral.
Mine is the same. I did wonder if it was one of the newer tinted ones but sure it'd say? Can't say I was over impressed with mine, I guess that's what happens when you read so much praise for a light. The switch feels poor and the max output seems less than quoted (especially next to my 'less powerful' st10)
You looking to get rid of that P4? That's the 1aaa 5mm with the moon beam right?
Edited to add.. It's 2xAA Penlight but does have a really awesome looking beam on 'flood' just like a perfect moon.
I would get rid, yes. Only trouble is we're other sides of the pond and the postage would be more than the value of the light. Also, I've used it for work and it's got marks and scrapes on the tail cap where I've wedged it in places.
Not sure how much they are in $ but I paid £19.99 uk sterling, I'd only want £10 delivered for a uk cpf member. I'm going to start thinning my lights soon (can't believe I'm saying that after not much more than a month of finding this place and going on a buying spree)
Paolos
Newly Enlightened
Hey, I'm only going by the quoted figures, I'm not familiar with the company. Perhaps you could explain why, as it comes across as a bit patronizing otherwise (which I'm sure is unintended).
Sammy_boy
Newly Enlightened
@autotech I'd be interested in your light, would be ideal for work! Pm me 
Sorry to go off topic btw!
Sorry to go off topic btw!
It's not just TerraLux. Most flashlight companies measure output at the emitter. That's before the reflector, lens, and head are installed. After they are, output will always be less. Always. Runtime is measured in terms of fully stated output, followed by diminishing but still useful levels of output.
For example: Let's say you have a light rated at 100 lumens. You get that output level for an hour. Followed by 50 lumens for the next 2 hours. Then after that it starts to dip at around 10 lumens for the next 4 hours. Yet, on the package, the manufacturer claims output of 100 lumens (likely at the emitter instead of the realistic measurement using an integrating sphere to get out-the-front lumens numbers) and then will claim a runtime of 3 hours instead of 1. Or, they might even have a runtime of 7 hours printed on the packaging. Meanwhile, you only get full output for only an hour.
That's just an example. Many flashlight companies do that sort of thing. Some are more honest with regards to both output and runtime. The ones that aren't . . . I personally consider their claims to be false advertising. But apparently it's not what the Law considers to be false advertising.
I found out about lumens numbers the hard way. Years ago on the same day, purchased a Streamlight Scorpion and a SureFire G2. Imagine my surprise when the 65 lumen G2 turned out to be considerably brighter than the 114 lumen Scorpion. (And I mean considerably.) Found out later that Streamlight was using emitter lumens for the Scorpion's rating, while SureFire not only gave out-the-front, realistic, numbers; but SureFire is actually known for generally underrating their out-the-front ratings. Meaning, your G2 is guaranteed to put out at least 65 lumens. But often it, and other SF lights, will produce more than what's printed on the packaging.
This is just one of the interesting aspects of the flashlight industry you'll learn about on CPF. No one learns everything overnight. (I definitely didn't.) Whatever you see written on the packaging or posted on most manufacturer's website, when it comes to lights, don't take it with just a grain of salt. Sometimes you need to grab yourself a shovel because of how much salt you'll need to heap on those claims.
Despite a lot of the sheer B.S. that exists in the industry, this is a fun hobby. Enjoy it.
Paolos
Newly Enlightened
Thanks for the reply, this is very helpful. I've only been into 'decent' flashlights for about a year or so, so I'm still finding a lot out.
I know the runtimes are always exaggerated, although I have started using the higher capacity Eneloop XX's which pick up some of the slack. I was under the impression that electronic regulation maintained the lights output for as long as possible, although I must admit, I know little about how that works. I only have multiple mode lights (aside from a crappy lenser P4) so I don't know how electronic regulation works in single mode lights. I know that with my fenix lights, that when the battery starts to run down, you loose turbo mode, then you loose high, and so on, although I rarely let my batteries go too low.
I know the runtimes are always exaggerated, although I have started using the higher capacity Eneloop XX's which pick up some of the slack. I was under the impression that electronic regulation maintained the lights output for as long as possible, although I must admit, I know little about how that works. I only have multiple mode lights (aside from a crappy lenser P4) so I don't know how electronic regulation works in single mode lights. I know that with my fenix lights, that when the battery starts to run down, you loose turbo mode, then you loose high, and so on, although I rarely let my batteries go too low.
Happy to help.
Generally, you're better off with lights that are regulated. Main disadvantage being that with a single-mode model, output near the end of battery life can drop to practically nothing in literally almost no time at all. With multi-mode models, when you lose the higher modes, it's like an early warning system to change the batteries very soon. I tend to replace batteries in my single-mode lights before they are near death. Doing so can be a bit of a pain sometimes, but it's worth it.
The one nice thing with direct drive models is that the lose of output is gradual and more even. Output is constantly going down, but at a much slower and steadier rate than regulated models.
If you use your Eneloops in your LL P4, you'll notice some regulation to a degree. It comes from the way rechargeable cells behave. They don't turn the P4 into a regulated model per se. But you will notice some regulation when using those cells as opposed to the normal direct drive way that the light usually exhibits.
I really have to eat my previous words. I was debating between buying the Preon II and the Brite Strike EPLI but found a great deal online for the Preon II in polished titanium. So I bought it, and I have to say it has been a very nice light. I will give it my 90% endorsement though because I quickly experienced the tail cap issue that has been so widely discussed on here. After reading about it I tried the remedy, and now it works fine. I really like how sleek the light is. It does not have a fancy bezel or knurling but it is sleek and slim. It is what I imagine when I think of a penlight. The beam pattern is excellent. Switching between modes is easier than I had previously thought. Slight depress on the tail cap switch between modes. It is not the full click like is shown in a lot of reviews on youtube. Here is one of the few samples of someone switching between modes without fully turning the light on and off. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1KedAj2zfY I like this review because it does not have the reviewer reading off the specs from his instruction card while offering no additional insight. Also concerning mode switching, there is actually 3 ways. Hard clicks, half presses, and twisting the head. Pretty versatile.
The clicky is not reverse so if you like momentary on, this one does not have it. I liked the feature on my other lights just knowing it was there, but with this one I really do not notice its absence much because I never really used it.
I will say this about the preon though; Have plenty of spare batteries if this will be used every day. Mine runs on Eneloops and I have to change them once a week, which is still very impressive for such a small 2xAAA battery to do while putting out so much light, but I am used to 1x18650 lights so I have been spoiled.
Another nice thing about the Preon 2 is it will warn you when it is running out. It will not simply shut off from full brightness.
If you like the polished titanium Preon or Preon 2, you might have to look elsewhere like amazon where I got mine because it appears that polished Titanium is no longer available on 4Sevens website. It looks to have been replaced by a satin titanium version. I need someone to confirm this however.
I am sure you will be happy with whatever light you pick, just thought I would give my input.
Happy hunting.
The clicky is not reverse so if you like momentary on, this one does not have it. I liked the feature on my other lights just knowing it was there, but with this one I really do not notice its absence much because I never really used it.
I will say this about the preon though; Have plenty of spare batteries if this will be used every day. Mine runs on Eneloops and I have to change them once a week, which is still very impressive for such a small 2xAAA battery to do while putting out so much light, but I am used to 1x18650 lights so I have been spoiled.
Another nice thing about the Preon 2 is it will warn you when it is running out. It will not simply shut off from full brightness.
If you like the polished titanium Preon or Preon 2, you might have to look elsewhere like amazon where I got mine because it appears that polished Titanium is no longer available on 4Sevens website. It looks to have been replaced by a satin titanium version. I need someone to confirm this however.
I am sure you will be happy with whatever light you pick, just thought I would give my input.
Happy hunting.
Update.
I ordered the Terralux. It is nowhere near 80 lumins. It is too thick and heavy for a AAA penlight. Could be a AA in this size. The bite grip is too thick and hurts the jaw after a few mins of holding it in your mouth. The tint is a sickly yellow which some may like, I found it looked dim and depressing. I gave it away as I was disappointed in it.
The Streamlight Pro-Tac AAA was also disappointing. The three modes are silly. High, strobe and low in that order. Why strob is before low is beyond me. What's worse is to get to strobe you need to quickly press the switch twice in half a second but to get to low you need to VERY quickly press the button three times. I never catch it right and always end up in the strobe and have to start over. Huge waste of time and money. Stupid light because of the UI and strobe. Big fail.
My current favorite is my Pelican 1920. One mode forward clicky. 67 lumins which is legit if not more. Much brighter than the Terralux or Streamlight Stylus Pro and at least as bright as the SL Pro-Tac AAA on high. Has a decent tint that is not as puke green as the Streamlights.
The Pelican has a lifetime warranty and is built better than the Stylus Pro. Has a glass lens which doesn't scratch easily. My SL Stylus Pro lens is all scratched up, not sure if it is glass or plastic but it is not as good as the Pelican lens. The 1920 has good runtime and a body that is more grippy with wet or oil soaked hands than the SL.
The Pelican 1920 is my recommendation for mechanics or electricians who need a quality no non-sense light that works and is easy to use. They can be found for $20 shipped from Botach which is the best price anywhere. Best $20 penlight I know of and my work EDC.
I ordered the Terralux. It is nowhere near 80 lumins. It is too thick and heavy for a AAA penlight. Could be a AA in this size. The bite grip is too thick and hurts the jaw after a few mins of holding it in your mouth. The tint is a sickly yellow which some may like, I found it looked dim and depressing. I gave it away as I was disappointed in it.
The Streamlight Pro-Tac AAA was also disappointing. The three modes are silly. High, strobe and low in that order. Why strob is before low is beyond me. What's worse is to get to strobe you need to quickly press the switch twice in half a second but to get to low you need to VERY quickly press the button three times. I never catch it right and always end up in the strobe and have to start over. Huge waste of time and money. Stupid light because of the UI and strobe. Big fail.
My current favorite is my Pelican 1920. One mode forward clicky. 67 lumins which is legit if not more. Much brighter than the Terralux or Streamlight Stylus Pro and at least as bright as the SL Pro-Tac AAA on high. Has a decent tint that is not as puke green as the Streamlights.
The Pelican has a lifetime warranty and is built better than the Stylus Pro. Has a glass lens which doesn't scratch easily. My SL Stylus Pro lens is all scratched up, not sure if it is glass or plastic but it is not as good as the Pelican lens. The 1920 has good runtime and a body that is more grippy with wet or oil soaked hands than the SL.
The Pelican 1920 is my recommendation for mechanics or electricians who need a quality no non-sense light that works and is easy to use. They can be found for $20 shipped from Botach which is the best price anywhere. Best $20 penlight I know of and my work EDC.
Hoping to get updated input on this topic. (Seemed better than starting a new thread). My priorities, in approximate order of importance to me -- 1) waterproof; 2) durable -- able to withstand drops, etc. without losing waterproofness or lens breaking, and lens not easily scratched if rolling around in a pack, etc.; 3) strong enough beam for outdoor use (not using this for checking pupils, etc.)- I guess mix of flood and spot (don't get your pitchforks, but I am not a light connoisseur); 4) design that minimizes chances of accidentally turning it on while in a pack or pocket; 5) light weight; 6) good burn time; 7) easy to hold. Not as concerned with how it looks -- an elegant design is always nice, but not as important to me as the things I already mentioned. This will be EDC light in either a small sling bag, or a pocket, more likely a pants pocket than shirt or jacket. Thank you for input.
