Potentiometer build for a Maglite

SmurfTacular

Enlightened
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Feb 16, 2010
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Location
Orange County, CA
I've recently completed a few 3D P7 Mag builds. And I've been using a 7135 driver with Hi and Lo modes. But cycling through modes is annoying.
My question is, how would I be able to install a potentiometer instead of a clicky button?
What driver would be capable of supporting a potentiometer, and where would I wire it?
Also, has this been done before?

All help is appreciated.
 
The Shark Driver from the Sandwich Shoppe has a trim pot for adjusting the output that can easily be removed and replaced with an external potentiometer for adjusting brightness.
 
The Shark Driver from the Sandwich Shoppe has a trim pot for adjusting the output that can easily be removed and replaced with an external potentiometer for adjusting brightness.

Thanks for the link!

but I was planning on doing this with a P7 Mag, and a P7 draws 2.8 amps.
This driver only outputs 980 milliamps max.

Output Current: Adjustable on board trim pot - 50mA - 980mA
 
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That's the one. The board doesn't have a UI itself, but one can be added. Order it without the trimpot, and add an external pot or UI board of your choice. The Shoppe sells a 3-level UI board (Remora), but I don't believe you can use that and a pot.

You can certainly put the dial for the pot through the stock Mag switch hole, but you will need to provide on/off power as well, so unless you can find a switch that provides both on/off and the 20K pot, you may want to leave the stock switch in place and tap a separate hole for the pot dial. Search for builds by members LED Zeppelin and Icarus for examples.

For heat sinking, try one of LED Zeppelin's SharkSinks.
 
That's the one. The board doesn't have a UI itself, but one can be added. Order it without the trimpot, and add an external pot or UI board of your choice. The Shoppe sells a 3-level UI board (Remora), but I don't believe you can use that and a pot.

You can certainly put the dial for the pot through the stock Mag switch hole, but you will need to provide on/off power as well, so unless you can find a switch that provides both on/off and the 20K pot, you may want to leave the stock switch in place and tap a separate hole for the pot dial. Search for builds by members LED Zeppelin and Icarus for examples.

For heat sinking, try one of LED Zeppelin's SharkSinks.

Aww, bummer, I really hope I can find an on/off potentiometer. I've seen aftermarket pots before, but the part that twst's is bare and you cant easily turn with your firgers. Do I have to make my own dial to put on the pot, or can I buy one?
 
Anything's possible. Spend some time at the DigiKey site. There are combination on/off/pot switches out there. The Mag pictured below uses one (press for on/off, twist for pot adjustment), and the dial is in the stock switch hole. Unfortunately, I didn't build it or source the parts, so I can't help with the switch specs or supplier.

As for the dial... you gotta have something around the house that would work. Or search the small parts bins at the hardware store. I'd probably use a Lego piece and an o-ring.

 
SmurfT - Keep an eye out for a writeup I'm about to do on a mod that Led Zep did for me a few months ago. I should have it up by tomorrow night, or Saturday at the latest.

There is an excellent solution for the knob issue. ;)
 
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lambda did it that way ... but the VaraPower 2000 seems to be not available.
 
lambda did it that way ... but the VaraPower 2000 seems to be not available.
Check back in a couple days. He built an initial batch of the SSR-90's a month or so back. Since then he's gotten some feedback, made some other changes, and now he's working on 1000 (SSR-50) and 2000 (SSR-90) builds based on his latest design. He just made some 1000's available today. 2000's should follow shortly.
 
I'm going to try Digikey part number CT2217-ND with the shark board. It's 25k and the shark calls for a 20k. I think a 20k with on/off switch is unobtainum.
 
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