Tidra
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Did anyone try to mod the PT EOS with Cree XP-G???
LP
Iztok
LP
Iztok
Princeton Tec EOS and XP-G,....
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adirondackdestroyer
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I haven't heard about anyone doing this, but I can imagine it would be pretty damn sweet if it worked out well.
Tidra
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If you find XP-G R5 emiters please let me know,... I am looking too
greenLED
Flashaholic
Considering the size of the die, the Rebel version of the Eos might be best (thinking optics here). Not sure what the brightness increase might be compared to stock, though.
OTOH, anything you can put in place of a stock Luxeon Eos will be a lot brighter.
Sorry to bring this up from the dead, but I got the Princeton Tec EOS as a gift and love the headlamp but the beam is way too blue for me. Where can I get a neutral XPG-R5 on a 20mm star? I can and have bought these neutral XPG-R5s with 16mm base for my Rayovac lantern project but can anyone tell me if it will work the same?
http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-24/**NEW**-Cree-XP-dsh-G-R4/Detail
BTW I followed a 24 minute video posted online to mod it with an XPG and the damn temperature sensor was epoxyd to the stock LED. I ended up breaking the temperature sensor trying to get it off, but the light still works.
EDIT: I found a 20mm star, but it's an r2 neutral XPG neutral white.
http://www.ledsupply.com/creexpg-nw118.php
http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-24/**NEW**-Cree-XP-dsh-G-R4/Detail
BTW I followed a 24 minute video posted online to mod it with an XPG and the damn temperature sensor was epoxyd to the stock LED. I ended up breaking the temperature sensor trying to get it off, but the light still works.
EDIT: I found a 20mm star, but it's an r2 neutral XPG neutral white.
http://www.ledsupply.com/creexpg-nw118.php
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robostudent5000
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if your main concern is the color, just get a neutral Rebel from Ledsupply and do a direct swap. that'll be the easiest. the Rebel is a good emitter. no point in using an XPG when the max drive current on a Eos is 300mA.
if you want the XPG, check out this thread. it shows nicely the cut you have to make in the optic holder to fit the XPG. the OP of that thread got his XPG's from Cutter.
if you use the 16mm star you have, you might have to make some cuts in the optic holder to make room for the star's solder pads and maybe get a little creative with the wires.
your light will work fine without the temp sensor.
i've used those R2 XPG's from Ledsupply in a Eos. the color was really nice, but there was minimal output difference compared to a stock Eos 70.
if you want the XPG, check out this thread. it shows nicely the cut you have to make in the optic holder to fit the XPG. the OP of that thread got his XPG's from Cutter.
if you use the 16mm star you have, you might have to make some cuts in the optic holder to make room for the star's solder pads and maybe get a little creative with the wires.
your light will work fine without the temp sensor.
i've used those R2 XPG's from Ledsupply in a Eos. the color was really nice, but there was minimal output difference compared to a stock Eos 70.
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gcbryan
Flashlight Enthusiast
You could also just put a light amber filter on it and take care of the excessive blue.
Well my mod is complete. Success!! Much warmer than the stock LED. In fact, maybe a tad too warm. Unlike most people I hate warm white but I also hate the bluish tint too. My TK41 and TK35 on the turbo modes are about the perfect tint, maybe just a TAD too cool, but barely. I feel the neutral white is a tad warm but I can certainly live with this over the crappy stock blue.
The beam pattern sucks. The good news is I never intended this gift to be a thrower. I want it to be floody. If I want something more thowey I would use my regular Fenix flashlights. This EOS is intended for caving. So I might just layer tape over the reflector until the beam pattern isn't bad and the beam is more floody, then reinstall the unit. I didn't use my Arctic Silver epoxy yet, but the tension seems to be holding the copper penny in place which is right under my 16mm LED, snug against the back and black housing.
On the workbench I left the unit on high with the LED under the copper penny and after a half hour the penny was barely warm. I'm going to leave my EOS now completely assembled on high for about an hour then take it apart real quick to make sure it's not too hot. My temperature sensor got busted during the uninstallation of the stock LED so I just want to make sure.
On a ceiling bounce test, it's pretty bright which is pleasantly surprising. I can see everything in my room with ease. I really like this EOS unit. I have bought only Fenix lights over the last two years mostly because of their quality and true IPX-8 waterproof rating. I've taken them snorkeling at night with friends many times and they have never leaked or failed once. Snorkeling is pretty awesome BTW even if it is freshwater and only eels, carp, turtles, etc are there.
The beam pattern sucks. The good news is I never intended this gift to be a thrower. I want it to be floody. If I want something more thowey I would use my regular Fenix flashlights. This EOS is intended for caving. So I might just layer tape over the reflector until the beam pattern isn't bad and the beam is more floody, then reinstall the unit. I didn't use my Arctic Silver epoxy yet, but the tension seems to be holding the copper penny in place which is right under my 16mm LED, snug against the back and black housing.
On the workbench I left the unit on high with the LED under the copper penny and after a half hour the penny was barely warm. I'm going to leave my EOS now completely assembled on high for about an hour then take it apart real quick to make sure it's not too hot. My temperature sensor got busted during the uninstallation of the stock LED so I just want to make sure.
On a ceiling bounce test, it's pretty bright which is pleasantly surprising. I can see everything in my room with ease. I really like this EOS unit. I have bought only Fenix lights over the last two years mostly because of their quality and true IPX-8 waterproof rating. I've taken them snorkeling at night with friends many times and they have never leaked or failed once. Snorkeling is pretty awesome BTW even if it is freshwater and only eels, carp, turtles, etc are there.
robostudent5000
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is the LED perfectly centered, cuz that can make a big difference.
which version of Eos do you have?
which version of Eos do you have?
I'm not sure which one I have. The black plastic holder was the older type I know that.
I ended up putting 3 layers of clear electrical tape over the reflector. Then reassembling everything. WOW what a difference. Nothing but pure flood. If you look at the light itself from the outside you can see a few bubbles in the 3 layers of tape. I tried many times over for that not to happend but no success. I could get that frost type spray which I might do. However the beam pattern is perfect with absolutely no artifacts. The output did diminish a little but that's OK. This will be for caving in small areas and once I get to areas I can stand or are bigger I'll just use my TK35.
I ended up putting 3 layers of clear electrical tape over the reflector. Then reassembling everything. WOW what a difference. Nothing but pure flood. If you look at the light itself from the outside you can see a few bubbles in the 3 layers of tape. I tried many times over for that not to happend but no success. I could get that frost type spray which I might do. However the beam pattern is perfect with absolutely no artifacts. The output did diminish a little but that's OK. This will be for caving in small areas and once I get to areas I can stand or are bigger I'll just use my TK35.
robostudent5000
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what did the original LED look like. this is a Lux Ihttp://lumensreview.com/uploads/SS-2010.04.11-20.02.27.jpg. this is a Rebelhttp://farm5.static.flickr.com/4129/5047849305_950cb31c33.jpg.
if it was the Lux I, then the beam will not look clean with an XPG unless you adjust the focal length from the LED to the optic. if that's what you have, you are better off finding a reflector that fits the holder and ditching the stock optic. a reflector will give you a wider and floodier beam and won't require you to use 3 layers of tape to get the results you want.
if it was the Lux I, then the beam will not look clean with an XPG unless you adjust the focal length from the LED to the optic. if that's what you have, you are better off finding a reflector that fits the holder and ditching the stock optic. a reflector will give you a wider and floodier beam and won't require you to use 3 layers of tape to get the results you want.
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robostudent5000
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that explains the crappy beam. i think the best option is to find a reflector that will work with the XPG... but finding one might not be easy. and you would still then have to mod the optic holder.
one thing you can do to make things work better with the stock optic is to to raise the XPG. to do this, get a blank 20mm star, epoxy the 16mm XPG to the blank star, cut out the centering device on the optic holder, manually center the XPG inside the optic holder, then epoxy the stars to the optic holder. this should raise the XPG far enough to achieve the correct focal length with the stock optic.
it would be the same idea as what Szemhazai applied for his Tikka XP mod shown herehttp://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...)-(xp-g-mod)&p=3441963&viewfull=1#post3441963.
for the blank 20mm star, you can just take the stock Lux I star, desolder the Lux I, flip the star so the blank side faces up, and epoxy the 16mm XPG to the blank side. the original 20mm star is thicker than most stars you can buy and will work better than anything else probably.
one thing you can do to make things work better with the stock optic is to to raise the XPG. to do this, get a blank 20mm star, epoxy the 16mm XPG to the blank star, cut out the centering device on the optic holder, manually center the XPG inside the optic holder, then epoxy the stars to the optic holder. this should raise the XPG far enough to achieve the correct focal length with the stock optic.
it would be the same idea as what Szemhazai applied for his Tikka XP mod shown herehttp://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...)-(xp-g-mod)&p=3441963&viewfull=1#post3441963.
for the blank 20mm star, you can just take the stock Lux I star, desolder the Lux I, flip the star so the blank side faces up, and epoxy the 16mm XPG to the blank side. the original 20mm star is thicker than most stars you can buy and will work better than anything else probably.
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That's a pretty good idea. I'll give it a shot later when I get home.
Well I did the mod. But because the 16mm star is there on top of the filed down 20mm star, it still wouldn't fit right. If the LED and small heatsink fit in-between the open space of the black holder of the EOS (like the user had in the link) then it would have fit perfectly.
No matter though because while a snug not 100% secure fit, the 16mm LED star is now secured and epoxied in the middle of the 20mm star. I lined up with the EOS lens while it was drying. I reassembed everything but the beam center was still pretty bad with artifacts. I also took the 3 layers of tape off and put just one layer of tape on the lens. Then reassembled everything. The light output is a little better than the 3 layers of tape I previously had on and the beam is still diffused enough where it's floody and you can't see any artifacts in the beam. I'm pretty happy with what I have now.
I just charged three AAA eneloops and put them in. My goal was to see how long the high mode would last before stepping down to the next level, and how hot the unit got with the 20mm star epoxied to the 16mm star. Well the unit is barely warm to the touch and it has been 2 hours and 41 minutes so far and the unit is still on the highest mode. Hasn't stepped down yet.
No matter though because while a snug not 100% secure fit, the 16mm LED star is now secured and epoxied in the middle of the 20mm star. I lined up with the EOS lens while it was drying. I reassembed everything but the beam center was still pretty bad with artifacts. I also took the 3 layers of tape off and put just one layer of tape on the lens. Then reassembled everything. The light output is a little better than the 3 layers of tape I previously had on and the beam is still diffused enough where it's floody and you can't see any artifacts in the beam. I'm pretty happy with what I have now.
I just charged three AAA eneloops and put them in. My goal was to see how long the high mode would last before stepping down to the next level, and how hot the unit got with the 20mm star epoxied to the 16mm star. Well the unit is barely warm to the touch and it has been 2 hours and 41 minutes so far and the unit is still on the highest mode. Hasn't stepped down yet.
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robostudent5000
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did you cut out the centering bracket in the middle of the optic holder? the raised XPG won't fit unless you basically turn the optic holder into a hollow tube.
centering the LED manually can be a tough task. even a fraction of a mm can make a big difference in the beam so it's not uncommon to end up with a few rings when doing things manually. you probably did a good job if you have that one layer of tape on there and are happy with the results.
a Eos should run for a tick over 3 hours on high on Eneloops.
centering the LED manually can be a tough task. even a fraction of a mm can make a big difference in the beam so it's not uncommon to end up with a few rings when doing things manually. you probably did a good job if you have that one layer of tape on there and are happy with the results.
a Eos should run for a tick over 3 hours on high on Eneloops.
I clocked 3 hours 23 minutes before high and medium were nearly indistinguishable. No I did not cut out the plastic center bracket but I probably should have thought of that haha.
robostudent5000
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how did you get everything to fit if the centering bracket is still on there? there's only about 2mm of space between an installed optic holder and the round plastic plug on the circuit board side of the battery holder. the 16mm star is probably 1.5mm thick and the Lux I star is almost 2mm thick. withe centering bracket still on there, there shouldn't be enough room for the optic holder to install properly or for the battery holder to install into the body all the way. did you maybe grind down the round plastic support plug on the battery holder to get the stars to fit?
if the epoxy hasn't dried to full strength yet, i would redo the mod. with the centering bracket intact, the XPG is 1.5mm too far away from the optic. not only is the optic not focused properly, it's also not capturing all the light from the XPG. you're probably losing 10-20% of the XPG's output.
if the epoxy hasn't dried to full strength yet, i would redo the mod. with the centering bracket intact, the XPG is 1.5mm too far away from the optic. not only is the optic not focused properly, it's also not capturing all the light from the XPG. you're probably losing 10-20% of the XPG's output.
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The epoxy is already dry unfortunately. I will see what I can do though as I'm sure I'll be able to get it all centered after playing with it a little and figuring it out.
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