Problems w/Surefire E2D

[Wolverine]

Hello everyone,

I'm a newbie here and would like to ask for advice/suggestions regarding a problem with my Surefire Executive Defender...

I purchased my Defender last fall and love it!... i take pretty good care of it since i know the bulb is fragile... however, yesterday i found that it didn't work!... the bulb does not turn on. I've changed the 123A batteries with fresh Surefire ones and still nothing. I replaced the bulb with a new one and still nothing! i've read bits and pieces around the forum and other internet resources and there seems to be an issue about the tailcap clickie...

i'd like to get your advice first before i contact surefire...

any suggestions?

thanks!

Wolvie (Fred J)

 

[jsr]

remove the tailcap and use a piece of metal (wire, paperclip, etc.) to connect the end of the battery tube and the bottom of the battery. If it lights up, it's your tailcap.

 

[RCatR]

Take out the lamp and see if the filament is broken, if it's in one piece put in fresh batteries and remove the tailcap. Short out the negative from the batteries to the body of the light(paper clip, piece of wire, etc. if it lights up then you'll need a replacement.

 

[kelmo]

Try cleaning the threads.

BTW welcome to CPF!

 

[Ganp]

Hi Wolverine ... welcome to CPF

What everyone else has said, then if it still does not work ...

Remove the head and press the positive end of one battery to the base of the lamp in the head . With some wire connect the other end of the battery to the large outer contact ring of the lamp. If it lights then the problem is the head to body contact or the switch.

Remove the lamp from the head and carefully press it into the body until it is in good contact with the battery and the end of the body. Depress the clickie fully if the lamp does not light and try again.
If the lamp now lights then the problem is bad body to head contact. If it still does not light then check the switch ...

Using some wire again wedge one bared end of the wire against the recessed large contact ring of the switch - it must stay in contact so press it home with "blue tack" or similar. Make sure it is not contacting the spring.

Now hold the positive battery pip to the lamp as before. Touch the switch spring to the battery negative end and the other end of the wire to the larger lamp contact ring. If the lamp does not work fully depress the clickie and try again.

If the lamp still does not work then the switch is faulty.

Of course, if you could borrow a multimeter life would be much easier.


Good luck,
Colin.

 

[Monocrom]

If none of the above info solves the problem, don't hesitate to send your light back to Surefire for warranty repair.

I'm glad my E2d isn't acting up like that.

 

[Wolverine]

Thank you everyone for great advice... i'll try them out sometime tomorrow! I'll let you know how it goes...

FredJ

 

[Wolverine]

Hi everyone,

I changed the E2D with new (different surefire) batteries and now my beloved flashlight EDC works!... i dunno, when i switched to two new ones prior, it didn't work... but i went ahead and change them again with a fresh pair and voila!...

thank you for your kind and quick response! you guys and gals are cool!

Fred

p.s. is there another brand of flashlight similar to the E2D in terms of compactness and bezel? a cheaper alternative?

thanks!

 

[glockboy]

You need the ZTS battery tester.
http://ztsinc.com/minimbt.html

 

[jsr]

The SF E-series is a bit unique in it's combination of output and size for a xenon. Competitors such as PentagonLight, Wolf-Eyes, and others offer models more comparable to the C/Z/P-series in size. The Streamlight TL-2 and NF-2 lights are in between the E- and C/Z/P-series sizewise, but do not look like the E-series.

Even most LED options such as those available from Wolf-Eyes, Lumapower, Huntlight, and Dereelight are also closer to C/Z/P-series size. The Fenix P3D is likely the closest in compactness.