Q-3 mod: Is it me or the SSC star?

[Manzerick]

Hey Folks,


Still plugging away at getting my Q-3 emitter swap to work and had another set back today.

I took out the star I had in there and replaced it with a SSC one from DX. I tied it out and... LET THERE BE LIGHT SWEET JESUS!!!!


After about 10 seconds... Blue-ish.... then more blue-ish and DARK!!!



The q-3 has all stock components except for the star and a customer Al heatsink.


Any suggestions on how to proceed from here and what could have gone wrong would be awesome!!!


Thank you in advance!!

 

[TMorita]

...
I took out the star I had in there and replaced it with a SSC one from DX. I tied it out and... LET THERE BE LIGHT SWEET JESUS!!!!
...

Do you still have the star which died?

Can you desolder the SSC P4, and check if there's thermal paste underneath?

Toshi

 

[EngrPaul]

After about 10 seconds... Blue-ish.... then more blue-ish and DARK!!!

Without a doubt, the problem is the lack of heat transfer inside the DX star. They are usually lifted off the heat sink pad and the thermal paste is practically useless. Please consider using a star from PhotonFanatic instead. They are soldered very flat and heat sinked properly.

 

[Walt175]

The led turning blue like that is usually a sign of overheating. Did you use thermal paste or thermal epoxy between the star and the heatsink? Was the star well seated against the heatsink?

The other possibility is that it was severly overdriven. Did anything short when you reassembled the light? Any loose solder in the driver circut? Missing insulation on any wires?

Try putting the stock star back in and check the voltage and amperage you are getting.

 

[Randy Shackleford]

This used to happen with stars from DX. I used Arctic Alumina adhesive to secure the emitter to the star.

The latest batch I received from them was soldered.

 

[hookoo]

I am considering doing this same upgrade to my Q3. Does anyone know if I will fry my SSC. with the an RCR123 that tops off at 4.2v? It works great with the Lux.

 

[EngrPaul]

I made a Q3 with a Photon Fanatic star and it worked extremely well and stayed white in color (I only tried primaries).

 

[FlashKat]

I could never get the DX SSC stars to work correctly for me. I would also suggest buying from Photon Fanatic.

 

[TMorita]

...
Please consider using a star from PhotonFanatic instead. They are soldered very flat and heat sinked properly.

I'd recommend the same. He has fast shipping, and the quality of his stuff is great.

Toshi

 

[wintermute]

+1 for PhotonFanatic. Great guy...great products.

I forgot to order my Arctic Alumina adhesive last order though.

 

[Walt175]

I am considering doing this same upgrade to my Q3. Does anyone know if I will fry my SSC. with the an RCR123 that tops off at 4.2v? It works great with the Lux.

I upgraded mine with a modified stock heatsink and a star from Photonfanatic. I kept the stock driver. I run mine on primaries, 3v R123's and 3.6v r123's. I have had no problems whatsoever. But it does get hot after a few minutes on 3.6v.



Did I mention it's BRIGHT? :twothumbs

 

[Manzerick]

Hey Folks..I think it's time fo rme to get away form the bargin bin stars..

This is the second star failure I've had from them. My last was a cree that never lit up. I'm going to shoot them an email and let them know.


I believe it was seated very well against the heatsink. Check out the pic's below and let me what you think:

 

[Gunner12]

The Seoul emitter seems to be a bit higher then usual, so probably inadequate heat transfer between the emitter and the star.

 

[Randy Shackleford]

Hey Folks..I think it's time fo rme to get away form the bargin bin stars..

This is the second star failure I've had from them. My last was a cree that never lit up. I'm going to shoot them an email and let them know.


I believe it was seated very well against the heatsink. (images)

The issue is the securing the emitter to the star. The previous DX SSC stars had been using only thermal paste to attach the emitter to the star. If the paste application failed, the heat from the emitter would not dissipate and the emitter would overheat. The latest batch I received from them the emitter was soldered to the star.

 

[nerdgineer]

...The latest batch I received from them the emitter was soldered to the star.

And that's good?... (is it an assurance of good heat transfer?)...

 

[joedm]

A SSC P4 will turn blue when driven at 4.2V.
Especially if not heatsinked properly.

I had this happen on a Ristoft that I modded. Only stopped after I added a resistor in series but now that I think of it, I will remove the led from the star and use artic alumina adhesive.

 

[Manzerick]

At this point I'm going to assume it's the star and try again.


ANy suggestions on where I should get the next SSC star? The Q-3 is stock other than the beefy heatsink and the soon to be SSC.


Thank you!

 

[uk_caver]

ANy suggestions on where I should get the next SSC star?

I'd go for Photonfanatic.
He doesn't have any stars right now, but is expecting some (USWOH/USVOH) in a week or so.

 

[Manzerick]

Excellent!!! Thank You!


ANy suggestions on thermal paste too? I don't want to skimp on anything after my experiences as of late

I'd go for Photonfanatic.
He doesn't have any stars right now, but is expecting some (USWOH/USVOH) in a week or so.

 

[uk_caver]

I now use Arctic Alumina adhesive to stick stars/emitters to heatsinks. It's not exactly cheap for the quantity, but thanks to the syringes it can be mixed in very small amounts.

Previously I used JB Weld, with no obvious glue-related problems out of 70 or so twin-LED lights built, but the Arctic Alumina is easier to use, due to the ease of making very small mixes and the quick setting time. It also initially sets quite rubbery, so removing excess with a scalpel is simple.