My silver plated R4 fit PERFECTLY inside my Oveready 6P natural HAIII. I had to push it out with a pen from inside in order to put the paste on! Great job.
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Sold/Expired QUAD P60 XPG Drop-ins now available! Up to 1780 Lumen.
- Thread starter VanIsleDSM
- Start date
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Jesse, I've been thinking. Probably the only reason your quad falls through FM's C heads is that it doesn't have the reflector like Dave's P60s do. Is there any way to add a reflector? Not expecting it to improve the beam, but just so it would stay in the flashlight. Would you sell one or 2 of those things to former customers? I love your module but an FM heat sinked C head host would be a lot better than a Solarforce one.
It only falls through the FM Turbo head. I found the problem with my FM 26650 & C head - extraneous copper I forgot I put in. It now fits with the glass in the C head.
It only falls through the FM Turbo head. I found the problem with my FM 26650 & C head - extraneous copper I forgot I put in. It now fits with the glass in the C head.
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warmurf
Enlightened
Are you still selling these?
If so, what is the major difference between this and the $190 Alum version? Both are stated to have the same output. Is it simply down to better heat control? If so, what bearing will that have on their performance? Will this one hold it's lumens output longer than the alum, or is it that you can use it a little longer as it takes longer to get hot compared to the alum?
If so, what is the major difference between this and the $190 Alum version? Both are stated to have the same output. Is it simply down to better heat control? If so, what bearing will that have on their performance? Will this one hold it's lumens output longer than the alum, or is it that you can use it a little longer as it takes longer to get hot compared to the alum?
VanIsleDSM
Enlightened
I'm goning to be making a new sales thread for these, the 5.6A aluminum, and adding the option of Carclo optics instead of the Khatod. Dan (run4jc) did a great review with some OTF numbers on the quad and septa here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-and-other-Drop-Ins-a-mini-review-photo-heavy!
The aluminum version uses a MCPCB, copper version solders directly to the copper heatsink. That alone, before any material advantage of the silver/copper means 2-3C/W less resistance to each LED, at ~5W each that means each LED is running 10-15C cooler from that alone. Along with the copper transfering the heat much more efficiently to the host, and the fact that it can hold 50% more heat for it's volume than aluminum, means that the copper module will indeed have a higher initital output, and a longer lasting output.
If you look at the OTF values measured by Dan and apply a % to the OTF output from it's original LED output, you'll see that the copper module at 5.6A retains a higher percentage of it's OTF lumens than the aluminum model at 4.2A. Dealing with more heat, the silver/copper heatsink is still able to provide a higher thermal efficiency.
The Carclo optic tested with silver/copper heatsink did 1654 Lumen OTF. That's 93% of the orginal LED output when the optic only states 90.2% effiency. How is that even possible? Well, the LEDs are binned at minimum outputs, so the LED lumens are probably more like 1850 than 1780. You can see though, with a silver/copper heatsink, there is virtually ZERO thermal resistance. No loss from heat at turn on means a nearly perfect thermal pathway.
I don't have one of FM's C heads, but I've heard they have no lip to catch a drop-in. Apparently the glass lens is what hold it's down. I won't be making an adapter to work with this head. I suggest you get a Cryos cooling bezel from Ronac.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-and-other-Drop-Ins-a-mini-review-photo-heavy!
The aluminum version uses a MCPCB, copper version solders directly to the copper heatsink. That alone, before any material advantage of the silver/copper means 2-3C/W less resistance to each LED, at ~5W each that means each LED is running 10-15C cooler from that alone. Along with the copper transfering the heat much more efficiently to the host, and the fact that it can hold 50% more heat for it's volume than aluminum, means that the copper module will indeed have a higher initital output, and a longer lasting output.
If you look at the OTF values measured by Dan and apply a % to the OTF output from it's original LED output, you'll see that the copper module at 5.6A retains a higher percentage of it's OTF lumens than the aluminum model at 4.2A. Dealing with more heat, the silver/copper heatsink is still able to provide a higher thermal efficiency.
The Carclo optic tested with silver/copper heatsink did 1654 Lumen OTF. That's 93% of the orginal LED output when the optic only states 90.2% effiency. How is that even possible? Well, the LEDs are binned at minimum outputs, so the LED lumens are probably more like 1850 than 1780. You can see though, with a silver/copper heatsink, there is virtually ZERO thermal resistance. No loss from heat at turn on means a nearly perfect thermal pathway.
I don't have one of FM's C heads, but I've heard they have no lip to catch a drop-in. Apparently the glass lens is what hold it's down. I won't be making an adapter to work with this head. I suggest you get a Cryos cooling bezel from Ronac.
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warmurf
Enlightened
Thank you for that excellent reply, plently of detail there! I find the level of detail and science that you use in designing/building these dropins amazing. It's like the Ferraris and Porches of the flashlight world. I'm down for the Septa already but I may need to put myself down for one of these as well. Have to start saving big time......!
Cheers,
Ricky
Cheers,
Ricky
PoliceScannerMan
Flashaholic
Received my 5.6A Copper R5 Quad today with the fetTie switch. I am running it in my FM copper 26650 host. The FetTie screws right in, I found a rubber gasket in my toolbox that fits it perfect. :thumbsup:
The FetTie has a nice click to it, would be hard to accidently turn on, the TC locks out with a lil twist, thats nice too.
I am glad I went with the R5 instead of the R4, it is still a nice creamy white with no blue or purple or green.
On low it has minimal inductor(?) whine, on medium it whines as loud as my old HDS U60XRGT, pretty loud in a quiet room. In normal use with other noises, it most likely wont be noticeable. I can easily hear it on medium with the TV on and my arm strtched out. On high it is silent, no whine. <<<EDIT: Jessie was right, my FetTie wasnt tightened, quick fix, no whine.
The three levels are nicely spaced.
I cant wait for darkness, inside this dropin is BRIGHT! I am a happy camper! :naughty:
Thanks Jessie. :thumbsup:
The FetTie has a nice click to it, would be hard to accidently turn on, the TC locks out with a lil twist, thats nice too.
I am glad I went with the R5 instead of the R4, it is still a nice creamy white with no blue or purple or green.
On low it has minimal inductor(?) whine, on medium it whines as loud as my old HDS U60XRGT, pretty loud in a quiet room. In normal use with other noises, it most likely wont be noticeable. I can easily hear it on medium with the TV on and my arm strtched out. On high it is silent, no whine. <<<EDIT: Jessie was right, my FetTie wasnt tightened, quick fix, no whine.
The three levels are nicely spaced.
I cant wait for darkness, inside this dropin is BRIGHT! I am a happy camper! :naughty:
Thanks Jessie. :thumbsup:
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I haven't noticed any whine - but then again in +110 decibel environment wearing hearing protection it's hard to hear someone yelling.
VanIsleDSM
Enlightened
Thanks Warmurf! I really enjoy pushing the limits.
The whine is from your FETtie making improper contact.
I'd suggest some steel washers. With a rubber gasket the give it will have won't allow the threads to cinch tight. You may just be able to give it a bit more of a twist though.
Here's the solution for new FM tailcap with a FETtie, copied from the Septa thread:
The whine is from your FETtie making improper contact.
I'd suggest some steel washers. With a rubber gasket the give it will have won't allow the threads to cinch tight. You may just be able to give it a bit more of a twist though.
Here's the solution for new FM tailcap with a FETtie, copied from the Septa thread:
I'll do a little photo instructable on this in a bit.
For now all those wanting to put their FETtie in their new FM tailcap, it's really easy!
Head down to your local hardware store and grab three M10 or 3/8" flat washers.
Unscrew the McClicky with adapter, (no I didn't have to boil mine, though it was tight), remove the included washer. Drop the 3 washers you just bought down, and thread in your FETtie.
The knub in the rubber boot on mine was slightly cut away, so it felt kind of weird when I went to use it again, like I had to press it in pretty far. I just dropped a new boot in, one where the rubber knub has been left unmolested, and it was back to good again.
For now all those wanting to put their FETtie in their new FM tailcap, it's really easy!
Head down to your local hardware store and grab three M10 or 3/8" flat washers.
Unscrew the McClicky with adapter, (no I didn't have to boil mine, though it was tight), remove the included washer. Drop the 3 washers you just bought down, and thread in your FETtie.
The knub in the rubber boot on mine was slightly cut away, so it felt kind of weird when I went to use it again, like I had to press it in pretty far. I just dropped a new boot in, one where the rubber knub has been left unmolested, and it was back to good again.
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PoliceScannerMan
Flashaholic
FIXED!
All I did was give it a lil tighten, and boom, all is good. Thanks Jessie. :thumbsup:
I edited my above post. at least others can learn from my mistakes.
Went outside with the dogs, man, this thing is a scorcher. :naughty:
Made my M91 look dim.
brandocommando
Enlightened
Good to know! And looking forward to the photos. Now I have an extra tailcap!
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Have you tried one of these with your quad? I'm done ordering things that might work. I'm going to sell almost everything I got from FM.
PoliceScannerMan
Flashaholic
Went to the hardware store, the 3 M10 washers really did the trick! :thumbsup:
I was suprised with the huge gap between head and body running my Oveready triple in the FM copper w/ heatsink head.
The VIQ fits nice, no gap, my host is now complete. :naughty:
FM Copper 1x26650 w/ heatsink head (Cryos on the way too), HA Nat, running a FETtie switch and a 5.6A silver Copper three level R5.
Any idea of runtimes (on three levels) to be expected w/ 26650 IMR 4000mAh??
Quick cell pics, the edges of the optics do hide behind the head, it seems just as much light comes out with the SF bezel....
I was suprised with the huge gap between head and body running my Oveready triple in the FM copper w/ heatsink head.
The VIQ fits nice, no gap, my host is now complete. :naughty:
FM Copper 1x26650 w/ heatsink head (Cryos on the way too), HA Nat, running a FETtie switch and a 5.6A silver Copper three level R5.
Any idea of runtimes (on three levels) to be expected w/ 26650 IMR 4000mAh??
Quick cell pics, the edges of the optics do hide behind the head, it seems just as much light comes out with the SF bezel....
pnwoutdoors
Enlightened
Regulated or direct-drive, for the 4.2A and 5.6A versions?
In the opening description/spec of the module, VanIsleDSM steates that the LED's are "individually current regulated." But in a subsequent post he indicates a 50% output drop when approaching 3V ahead of the 2.75V low-volt cutout.
Questions:
1. Is the 4.2A Aluminum version fully regulated?
2. Is the 5.6A Copper version fully regulated?
Seems to me that both have fully regulated input.
In the opening description/spec of the module, VanIsleDSM steates that the LED's are "individually current regulated." But in a subsequent post he indicates a 50% output drop when approaching 3V ahead of the 2.75V low-volt cutout.
Questions:
1. Is the 4.2A Aluminum version fully regulated?
2. Is the 5.6A Copper version fully regulated?
Seems to me that both have fully regulated input.
VanIsleDSM
Enlightened
Your Welcome Kimitaka, thanks for your business.
Both the 4.2A and 5.6A are regulated. Individual current regulated LEDs means that each LED gets it's fair share of current, and no more. If you treat the 4 LEDs as 1 large LED and just apply 4.2A or 5.6A to all 4 of them without individual regulation to each LED, then the LEDs will not share the current equally. This will result in less efficiency, more heat, shorter life, and above all else, less output.
The output drops at 3V because the cell is nearly depleated and can't hold it's voltage well enough any longer. The remaining time from 3V to 2.75V will still give you some light if you're in a pinch and need it, but you might as well change the cell at this point. With a 5.6A draw right to 2.75V, you'd only gain a minute of runtime at best anyway.
Sales in this thread are now closed.
New Sales thread here:http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb....-Up-to-1654-Lumen-OTF!&p=3607357#post3607357
Both the 4.2A and 5.6A are regulated. Individual current regulated LEDs means that each LED gets it's fair share of current, and no more. If you treat the 4 LEDs as 1 large LED and just apply 4.2A or 5.6A to all 4 of them without individual regulation to each LED, then the LEDs will not share the current equally. This will result in less efficiency, more heat, shorter life, and above all else, less output.
The output drops at 3V because the cell is nearly depleated and can't hold it's voltage well enough any longer. The remaining time from 3V to 2.75V will still give you some light if you're in a pinch and need it, but you might as well change the cell at this point. With a 5.6A draw right to 2.75V, you'd only gain a minute of runtime at best anyway.
Sales in this thread are now closed.
New Sales thread here:http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb....-Up-to-1654-Lumen-OTF!&p=3607357#post3607357
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