Question for the anodizers

jhanko

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I need to anodize a small complex heatsink I made. I made it out of 6061-T6 Al. I already destroyed one of these with a stupid *** mistake (more on that later). It took four hours to make another one and I don't want to screw this one up. I'm anodizing it solely for electrical isolation. It will not be dyed. Just anodized & sealed. Here is my concern: The heatsink has several 0-80 holes tapped in it. Will anodizing ruin these small threads? Ideally, I would like the oxide layer to tighten up the fit of the screws a little.

The first heatsink I screwed up was by just not thinking. I was using the 12amp per square foot rule. I estimate the total suface area of the heatsink to be 2 square inches. When I converted the square ft. to square in., I divided by 12, not 144. Again, a stupid *** mistake that cost me four hours. I ended up pumping 2 amps through it for 45 minutes. When it was done, the sink was slightly smaller and the screws slid right through the threaded holes.

Here is what I plan to do with this one. 20% sulfuric acid, constant current 170ma for 45 minutes, then boil to seal. How does this sound? Will the threads survive? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
I need to anodize a small complex heatsink I made. I made it out of 6061-T6 Al. I already destroyed one of these with a stupid *** mistake (more on that later). It took four hours to make another one and I don't want to screw this one up. I'm anodizing it solely for electrical isolation. It will not be dyed. Just anodized & sealed. Here is my concern: The heatsink has several 0-80 holes tapped in it. Will anodizing ruin these small threads? Ideally, I would like the oxide layer to tighten up the fit of the screws a little.

The first heatsink I screwed up was by just not thinking. I was using the 12amp per square foot rule. I estimate the total suface area of the heatsink to be 2 square inches. When I converted the square ft. to square in., I divided by 12, not 144. Again, a stupid *** mistake that cost me four hours. I ended up pumping 2 amps through it for 45 minutes. When it was done, the sink was slightly smaller and the screws slid right through the threaded holes.

Here is what I plan to do with this one. 20% sulfuric acid, constant current 170ma for 45 minutes, then boil to seal. How does this sound? Will the threads survive? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!



Wrong forum here :)

Post this on Caswells forum. I thought about buying Caswells kit 100 times it just seems like to much work!

Mac
 
In case anyone is interested, I went ahead with it. I couldn't be happier with the results. I ended up dying it black. I did this so I could see how good of a layer I got. If it didn't take the dye, I wouldn't trust it as a good insulator.

The items used were:
1 quart battery electrolyte from NAPA (33% sulfuric acid) $9.00
1 gallon distilled water $1.00
1 bottle of RIT liquid dye $3.00
DC power supply
3" x 3" Ti sheet for cathode (lead would work)
12" titanium wire (I used long pieces of swarf)
4"x4"x4" tupperware container

Water used in ALL steps was distilled.
First, I diluted the acid 50/50 with water, so I was anodizing with a ~17% solution. This was a freshly machined part, so the only cleaning I did was with Dawn dishwashing liquid and a toothbrush. Rinsed with water. I anodized it for 60 minutes at 170ma. This required an average of 15.5v. After the bath, it was rinsed in cool water. From there it went into the RIT dye, mixed 50/50 with water, heated to ~120 degrees for 15 minutes. Next it was boiled for 15 minutes and allowed to air dry.

I was amazed at the results. The 0-80 threads were still well defined and the screw fit is a little tighter, exactly what I wanted. I will definitely be doing more anodizing in the future. It's much easier than I expected. There is alot of time involved though. The first pic is the finished sink, and the second showing the sink in the head.



 
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