RA Clicky vs Surefire E1B vs Fenix PD20 vs Infilux

[stallion2]

I have ordered a 100 CRI ..... Do you think that is a mistake and a 170 would be better as a first choice....

w/ an HDS there's no such thing as a mistake. i was using the 170 lm version as an example for output comparison since it most closely approximates the LX2 w/ which you're already familiar. the differences in output for the HDS lights shouldn't be valued for output alone but rather having the option for increased output w/out sacrificing efficiency...obviously a feature more heavily valued in a single-cell light like this. i'm not all that concerned w/ tint but have been giving serious thought to the high CRI Twisty. the difference in output at 100 to 170 lm shouldn't be all that significant...certainly not a gain of 70%. seeing as how pjandyho has both i wouldn't mind hearing his impression of their relative output.....

You made the right choice. Between the high CRI and 170 tactical I have, I prefer the high CRI....

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

I will re-phrase and say it's not as bright as I think it should be, It is advertised at 260 lumens and I have tested it against many light's I own via ceiling bounce and it seems the Infilux I recieved is about 200 lumens at best. To me that is disappointing for a light advertised to be 260, I would think it would at least be around the 230-240 range.

It is almost identical in brightness when doing ceiling bounce to my old XR-E PD30 and my Zebralight H51. If I compare it to a PD30 R4 or Quark AA using 14500 it's no contest.

A lot of companies advertise calculated lumens rather than out-the-front lumens. In other words, that's how much light the LED is capable of generating under ideal conditions, not taking into account output lost from inefficient circuits, variations from one LED to the next, reflectors, lenses, etc. It's not unheard for a light to output only half of what is actually advertised. Same brands are notorious for this while others like 4Sevens and HDS advertise actual out-the-front luments. HDS even goes the extra mile by individually calibrating each light to guarantee that if it says 170 lumens on the box, you're going to get 170 actual lumens out the front.

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

I have ordered a 100 CRI ..... Do you think that is a mistake...

Absolutely not. The high CRI Clicky is a fantastic light. What you lose in output is more than made up for with the beautiful color rendering this light produces. In fact, this light could very well put you off cool LEDs for good. I know I can't stand the things anymore.

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

the difference in output at 100 to 170 lm shouldn't be all that significant...certainly not a gain of 70%

My understanding is that you need to quadruple the output to gain a perceived doubling in brightness (something to do with the inverse square law I think). A jump from 100 to 170 will certainly be noticeable but may not be as significant as some might expect. There's also the difference between the wide and narrow beams to take into account. A tightly focused beam will appear brighter than a floodier one even if they're technically the same output.

 

[stoli67]

Interesting that you guys mention 47's as I just also ardered a Quark 123 and a 123-2.

I heard that the RA would take several weeks to come so I got something to play with in the meantime...

The 123-2 is a special warm tint... so that will be interesting to compare to the RA CRI!

I am sure that th RA will be better.... the quark may well become a present for somone in the furture... I will prpbably keep the single cell one as I really like that format and will probably keep all of them .

In terms of sometime for throw... I have A fenix TK40 that is pretty good... also my LX2.... I do find the TK11 R2 pretty good for throw

 

[Harry999]

In my evening walk earlier today I was alternating between using the 100 CRI and the 170T in both darker urban streets and then a unlit city park. I found the 100 CRI the better for EDC/General use because it is floodier. However, the 170T had its own niche in lighting things up at a distance. I also found the 170T better in lighting up built up urban areas which were dark whereas the 100 CRI performed better in the park. That is of course a personal opinion.

I think the two really compliment each other. The other thought was that the warmer tint of the 100 CRI was less threatening. In the past when using a cooler tint light I have had people getting curious and even alarmed. One gentleman actually came up to me several weeks ago and asked what I was doing using a light (in a dark park)! With the warm tint of the 100 CRI I never get any comments. It must just seem friendlier?

 

[:)>]

I have ordered the RA Clicky 100 as power is not really the issue with this one.... I look forward to its arrival...

OK I got a little excited and also ordered the Surefire E1B from batteryjunction.com. Thay have written back saying that they cannot ship any surefire products outside of the US.

I have read other people have had surefire torched sent over here.


Anyone know who will ship over here to Australia??

Great choices... the Clicky and the E1B complement one another better than any other 2 lights that I can think of. The throw from the Surefire optic is excellent when you need to see something in the distance and the Clicky is the perfect light in just about every other situation... it is no slouch in the throw department either.

 

[jamesmtl514]

Surefire E1B
Made in the USA
Guaranteed forever
as close to indestructible as a flashlight can come.

I've done things to mine that I wouldn't do to any other light and it has always performed.

 

[m3flies]

I have two HDS lights. The 170tac, and the 140 twisty. Both great lights because of their customization abilities, durability and lifetime warranty. However, I just received my E1B today. I can't say enough good things about this light. Just by my eye test, I think it's brighter than the 170t and has a tighter spot. Just my opinion.

 

[Connor]

In the past when using a cooler tint light I have had people getting curious and even alarmed. One gentleman actually came up to me several weeks ago and asked what I was doing using a light (in a dark park)!

If something like this will ever happen to me, I am resolved to just switch my light off as an answer, waiting to see if they understand, while looking meaningful at the darkness.
To the OP: Get the HDS.

 

[jimmy1970]

I have just received both a new Surefire E1B and a Ra Clicky 100 Hi CRI.
Both are great lights with the E1B being the thrower of the two. The E1B has a coolish tint, the Clicky has the most beautifully smooth and warm tint I have ever come across - very different to the old Cree 5B tint - less yellow with colours looking very natural - love it!

James.....

I have two HDS lights. The 170tac, and the 140 twisty. Both great lights because of their customization abilities, durability and lifetime warranty. However, I just received my E1B today. I can't say enough good things about this light. Just by my eye test, I think it's brighter than the 170t and has a tighter spot. Just my opinion.

 

[pjandyho]

I have two HDS lights. The 170tac, and the 140 twisty. Both great lights because of their customization abilities, durability and lifetime warranty. However, I just received my E1B today. I can't say enough good things about this light. Just by my eye test, I think it's brighter than the 170t and has a tighter spot. Just my opinion.

I am sure you have gotten the latest 110 lumens E1B? I compared the 170T to the 80 lumens E1B and the 170T puts out more light. Based on what you say, I guess Surefire really did brighten the E1B and is not just updating the specs on paper to reflect the actual lumens like what some claimed they did.

 

[stoli67]

I will be very interested to compare the Ra CRI to my new Quark 123-2

http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=297_310&products_id=2288

 

[stallion2]

i hate to say one Ra Clicky is better than another but maybe the high CRI version is. i wouldn't call the 170 version a thower, certainly not against the LX2 so the high CRI would have to be a better compliment to it.

good luck w/ the Quarks...had i known you were gonna get two then i would've suggested one of the Turbos. my first was 123^2 version. it out throws the LX2 and maintains a larger spill region. it really is a great all-around light. i just recieved a tactical Quark 123^3 since they cut the prices on the titanium parts and a friend of mine got the 123 a few weeks ago. both are good lights but they get a wee bit hotter than i like.

 

[stoli67]

I sort of feel obliged not to buy too many more CR123 *2 style torches as they will probably stop me using my LX2!

In terms of throw though my TK11 R2 is preety great... If I need more thow than that then I get out my TK40.

The great thing about the TK11 (and my TA21) ithe fact thatyou can use rechargable 18650s!

The two quarks I ordered both have a very low setting which is great for around the house when I don't want to wake up the kids.... I am sure that my new RA CRI will be fantastic for this...

 

[stoli67]

I take your point about the quark turbe though .... I only got the 123-2 as an after thought becuase it was a limited edition warm model.

 

[Qmotion SIS]

I just noticed that out of all the post noone has mentioned the Fenix PD20-R2

I'm considering purchasing the Fenix light but wondering if perhaps I should consider the Quark.

 

[De-Lux]

I just noticed that out of all the post noone has mentioned the Fenix PD20-R2

I'm considering purchasing the Fenix light but wondering if perhaps I should consider the Quark.

I would choose the PD20 over the Quark in a heartbeat and I would choose the Nitecore EX10 over both the PD20 or the Quark. That being said, The HDS lights are second to none. I just purchased an HDS and it is by far the best light I own. I am already considering purchasing another. Everyone raves about the CRI but even the non-CRI emitters have a nice tint especially when compared to my fenix, Nitecore and 4sevens lights. I didn't realize that my other lights had a slightly purplish tint until compared side by side with my HDS light. I have both the Fenix PD20 and PD30 and they are both great lights. They both have a nice beam. My only complaint is that they lack a low/low. The NightCore EX10 was my EDC before I purchased the HDS and is still one of my favorites. The EX 10 has infinite brightness setting between 4 to 140 Lumens. The perfect size for EDC. The piston drive switch on the EX10 has worked flawlessly for me so far. I am not a big fan of the 4sevens lights. I have purchased a couple in the past and have always given them away as gifts. I know many on the forum rave about them but I have yet to get one that I have been stoked on.

 

[stoli67]

Well I love my PD20 ... I also have the Quark 123 and 123*2 ...


I find that the Fenix models feel more solid than the quark and I like the forward click switch more .... also they have more modes readily available without reporgramming.

In saying that .... I do like the moonlight mode of the Quarks..... If only the fenix had that then I would have no reason to heve both.

The 123*2 that I have is a special cool led model... totally different colour to the Fenix which is quite white .

Oh one more thing there is a PD20 R2 and there is a PD20+ that is more rounded.... I like the first one because is does not roll when you put it down... the PD20+ had a cli though.

 

[CarpentryHero]

Single cr123 LED lights rock. The only one I own though is the Eureka. 160 lumens, not otf. It's barely 3 inches long.
Bought it today, now here I am looking here