Re: Custom Order Notification Thread- II
Wilkey,
I won't pretend to have the drivers sorted out on these new LED's and there are thermal considerations as well as power capacities to consider with your cell selection. I have been satisfied with a removal of .025" from the rear of my reflectors in terms of getting a more optimal allignment of image source and focal point. The 20 mm and 38 mm reflectors are forgiving enough that used stock will give a decent, artifact free beam but not as tight as that when modified. The removal of .025 from the reflector must be accounted for in the overall train of components to insure that you still have the ground path conection from battery tube to lip on the LE. A tinned wire ring slipped over the ES-Can is one simple solution for bridging the gap.
I have one red LE that is a wiz 930 and it runs fine on a CR123 and of course would be good on a R123. If you want to get to 1400 mA with a single CR123, I am not sure what driver to suggest and it may be that DD should be investigated?!?! The other consideration is the heat generated in this small package and the fact that a hot die will just drop in luminious output and you could end up with a vicious circle of phonons being pumped out instead of photons.
You may want to push the R/O to the wall but it may well push back! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
Speaking only for myself, stripping the emitter from the star is trivial.
Back to drivers, the NexGen is the most efficient of the lot, I think but I don't know how hard it can be pushed on a CR123 before it decides that "safe mode" is the response. The Wiz2 is a good choice provided the cell, under load, doesn't drop down to the 2.5V level where the driver can be erratic in deciding whether it should shut off or not. I think a Wiz2 set at 1400 mA on a CR123 could well be at this margin.
I think the best shot at success for max current to the LED would be a wiz2 1400 on a R123. As to the thermal well being of such a LE in a A2, I have my doubts beyond short runs of "damn that's bright!!"
If it were me trying to get the highest amount of lumens out of one of these LED's, I would opt for the R123 (I assume these have the power required but have no experience; the density in the early ones I tried left me frowning) and the wiz2.
Wilkey,
I won't pretend to have the drivers sorted out on these new LED's and there are thermal considerations as well as power capacities to consider with your cell selection. I have been satisfied with a removal of .025" from the rear of my reflectors in terms of getting a more optimal allignment of image source and focal point. The 20 mm and 38 mm reflectors are forgiving enough that used stock will give a decent, artifact free beam but not as tight as that when modified. The removal of .025 from the reflector must be accounted for in the overall train of components to insure that you still have the ground path conection from battery tube to lip on the LE. A tinned wire ring slipped over the ES-Can is one simple solution for bridging the gap.
I have one red LE that is a wiz 930 and it runs fine on a CR123 and of course would be good on a R123. If you want to get to 1400 mA with a single CR123, I am not sure what driver to suggest and it may be that DD should be investigated?!?! The other consideration is the heat generated in this small package and the fact that a hot die will just drop in luminious output and you could end up with a vicious circle of phonons being pumped out instead of photons.
You may want to push the R/O to the wall but it may well push back! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
Speaking only for myself, stripping the emitter from the star is trivial.
Back to drivers, the NexGen is the most efficient of the lot, I think but I don't know how hard it can be pushed on a CR123 before it decides that "safe mode" is the response. The Wiz2 is a good choice provided the cell, under load, doesn't drop down to the 2.5V level where the driver can be erratic in deciding whether it should shut off or not. I think a Wiz2 set at 1400 mA on a CR123 could well be at this margin.
I think the best shot at success for max current to the LED would be a wiz2 1400 on a R123. As to the thermal well being of such a LE in a A2, I have my doubts beyond short runs of "damn that's bright!!"
If it were me trying to get the highest amount of lumens out of one of these LED's, I would opt for the R123 (I assume these have the power required but have no experience; the density in the early ones I tried left me frowning) and the wiz2.