REALLY stubborn NovaTac bezel - Suggestions?

[Ducaticorse]

I know that there are at least a few folks out there with similar challenges, based on some posts I've read over the past months. Any suggestions on removing what appears to be a very stubborn NovaTac 120 bezel?

My 120P is a great light, I use it daily. I have a nice PEU bezel and UCL that I'd like to fit to the light, but I just can't seem to get the original bezel off without resorting to what I would consider to be overly aggressive methods or damaging the stock bezel. Here's what I've tried:

-Rubber strap wrenches (slip off the tiny stock bezel)
-Heat (hotplate) + strap wrenches
-Sole of a shoe or sneaker (with and without heat)

To be honest, I'm a bit stumped! I've considered sending it to datiLED for emitter "lottery" mod, just to see if anyone has better luck than I, but that just seems cruel to Derek...

Thanks in advance for any ideas!

 

[9volt]

I had the same problem and had to find just the right kind of shoe sole to get mine off. I think I used a dress shoe with a flat sole.

I'm not sure if this would screw something up on the light, but PB Blaster works great at getting things loose. You might try a little of that too.

 

[kromeke]

I use one of these:

http://www.micro-tools.com/store/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=FLX-11-B

The ones made of beryllium copper are a little cheaper, but I haven't used them.

Edit: Here is the other one:

http://www.micro-tools.com/store/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=FLB-11-B

further edit: I didn't need to resort to the flexiclamp for my Novatac. It came off really easily. I have used the flexiclamps for other flashlights. I actually bought 2 in the 1" size for taking apart an Arc LS. Worked great for that. I have also used it to tighten the Novatac and Ti HDS bezels I have.

I would think that the BeCu ones would grip a little better on smooth surfaces, but like I said, I haven't seen or used them. The phenolic ones are made ok. They grip tight. Also, it is my opinion that the phenolic ones would be gentler, especially on knurled surfaces. Hard anodize is harder that BeCu, but it is only as strong as the aluminum underneath. They are nice that they have a uniform grip around cylindrical surfaces.

 

[Walt175]

I was FINALLY able to get mine off using a heat gun and strap wrenches.

 

[xevious]

Interesting. So the Beryllium Copper is soft enough not to mar the surface yet firm enough to achieve a decent grip?

 

[adamlau]

I would hit the threads with some Nano-Oil from NanoLubes by StClaire Nano-Oil.com CPF Special Page and a thick dressing of NyoGel 779ZC before screwing the bezel back on.

 

[Ducaticorse]

The "flexiclamp" is a great suggestion. I hate to buy a tool just for the removal of a NovaTac bezel, but it may come to that. I have a heat gun stashed somewhere, I will have to find it and give it a couple more attempts with heat before resorting to new tools.

Thanks for the suggestions - anybody else have other ideas?

 

[Oddjob]

...I just can't seem to get the original bezel off without resorting to what I would consider to be overly aggressive methods or damaging the stock bezel...

You may have to resort to damaging the stock bezel.
Just got mine bezel off...holy what a pain in the arse!!
I started off by using the heat from a hair dryer and two strap wrenches-which didn't work.
I then used the hair dryer to heat the bezel, used the rubber from the strap wrench to grip the body and a rubber mallet to push on the bezel and twist-moved the bezel about a 1/4 of an inch.
I started getting pissed off so I used WD40, heat and the aforementioned mallet and strap wrench-moved it about a quarter turn. :hairpull:
Finally I got so fed up that I decided to use a vicegrip directly on the bezel (it was showing wear and had a scratch on it anyway) and vicegrips on the body (using the rubber from the strap wrench to proctect the body). The bezel got bent but with the vicegrips directly on the bezel I was able to get enough purchase and torque to remove the bezel. I did put some tape on the body along the front edge to protect it where the vicegrip on the bezel could have possibly cause scratches.
Luckily the only thing damaged was the original bezel which is not a big deal since I wanted to replace it along with the lens. The threadlock that was on the original bezel was red/pink in colour.
I'm glad I got it off so now I have a titanium bezel and an ultra clear glass lens on it.:twothumbs

 

[Ducaticorse]

...Finally I got so fed up that I decided to use a vicegrip directly on the bezel (it was showing wear and had a scratch on it anyway) and vicegrips on the body (using the rubber from the strap wrench to proctect the body)...

OUCH! :sick2: Oddjob, this is exactly what I was trying to avoid. I'd read about folks reaching this level of frustration, so in my own attempts I had to force myself to stop when I started to get too wound up. I'm going to give it a few more tries with some non-destructive methods before I open up a can of whoop-arse.

 

[Oddjob]

OUCH! :sick2: Oddjob, this is exactly what I was trying to avoid. I'd read about folks reaching this level of frustration, so in my own attempts I had to force myself to stop when I started to get too wound up. I'm going to give it a few more tries with some non-destructive methods before I open up a can of whoop-arse.

You are defintiely a better man than I.
I hope you can get it off. Like I said, bending and scratching the bezel was not too big a trade off considering I can now put a better bezel (maybe with tritium) on and change the lens. Good luck!!

 

[sawlight]

I had success using a pair of Chanel lock pliers. Not what you are thinking!!!!
The rubber coated handle will fit right between the crenulations tightly, and the rubber will grip it tightly. Place the light on a smooth hard surface, push down on the pliers and turn at the same time while holding the body of the light with you're other hand. It worked very well for me with no damage to the finish on the bezel.
Hope that helps.

 

[Sgt. LED]

^ Very similar to what I did to get off a stubborn ring. I pressed the ring into the corner of a doorway and twisted. Pushing hard enough to bury the ring into the wood, and twisting with all I had, I was finally rewarded with that sickeningly sweet CRACK! Then it was all over. No marks on the original ring either. Doorway really suffered though.........

 

[RPM]

Are the Novatacs the same as the HDS bezels? If so here was my first answer to a stuck bezel:

A small piece of bandsaw blade trimmed to fit in the small notches.

 

[Sgt. LED]

Very nice job of innovation!

 

[dhwfd46]

You might be able to mask the bezel, put a small hose clamp on it, and stick the adjustment screw in a vise, then turn the body.

 

[manoloco]

Are the Novatacs the same as the HDS bezels? If so here was my first answer to a stuck bezel:

A small piece of bandsaw blade trimmed to fit in the small notches.

nope, novatacs dont have that ring anymore, they already have a crenelated bezel installed from factory.

 

[Patriot]

I've tried every method listed here and still can't get the bezel off. I'm about to get burly as Oddjob did with the vise grips but I wan't to get a nice bezel for it. I already have a 22.8mm UCL but I'm not sure if that will fit??

Bezel suggestions please...........??

 

[Sgt. LED]

Hammer it into a block of wood with a chunk of firewood, then see if that helps out.

 

[xevious]

Why did Novatac make the bezel so hard to remove? Did they just underestimate the holding strength of the thread-lock compound they used? I can't see how anything beyond a very firm finger tightening would be needed in normal use.

 

[Patriot]

Why did Novatac make the bezel so hard to remove? Did they just underestimate the holding strength of the thread-lock compound they used? I can't see how anything beyond a very firm finger tightening would be needed in normal use.

Typical manufacturer non-sense, in my opinion. As if a window/lens shouldn't be user replaceable........:shakehead