Rechargeable batteries OK in Fenix PD20?

[Mrak]

Greetings I'm new to this hope for some straight answers. I ordered what looks to be a sweet light, the Fenix pd20. Subsequent to ordering I have read about some issues with this light and RECHARGEABLE rcv123a batteries. My questions are: Will this battery work correctly with this light.? If not will it damage the light or just fail to fully exploit the capabilities of the light? As in no turbo performance. I purchased the whole system based on the use of rechargeable batteries, in order to be "green" as much as save money. Am I sol or . . .?

 

[DM51]

Welcome to CPF, Mrak.

I've changed the title of your thread from "Battery questions", as your query is specific to the Fenix PD20.

 

[Mrak]

Cheers. Thanks for the edit. Still looking for a solid answer. In the mean time I've ordered a Nitecore Ex10 which specifically states that it can use Rcv123's. I'm moving up from an Inova x1 to 123's! A new $! hobby!

 

[Hitthespot]

The PD20 will use the RCR123 however you will loose all modes except for Turbo, and your right, it is a sweet light!

Welcome to CPF.

Happy Holidays

Bill

 

[mr.snakeman]

I´ve got three different RCR123A batteries that I use in my various lights: AWs black protected at 3.7v., Tenergys blue at 3.0v. and AWs blue LiFePO4 at 3.0v.. In my P2D (whch I think has the same regulation circuitry that the PD20 has) the 3.7v. batteries are useable but do not allow one to use all the General Mode settings (light intensity stays the same), whereas both the 3.0v. do. Hope this answers your question, and by the way,:welcome:

 

[mdocod]

There have been reports of people frying their P2Ds on 3.7V cells, which translates to "it could also happen with a PD20."

If you wind up getting some 3.0V cells for it, please make sure you use the right charger with the right cells.

Eric

 

[Nake]

I just went and tried my PD20 with an AW RCR123. Not totally true that all modes are the same brightness. In general mode L/M/H show 8,500 overall lux, while turbo shows 10,500.

 

[Hitthespot]

Your right Eric and my post could be somewhat misleading. I ran out of CR123 for a couple of days and used my RCR123 in my PD20 for that time with no problem. However, like you I have read of P2D's burning up.

So my post IS NOT a recommendation to use RCR123's in your PD20 and in fact was just the opposite since you loose all but one mode.


Nake, I had no way of measuring and didn't realize there was a very slight difference. Thanks for the test.

Happy Holidays

Bill

 

[Nake]

It is very hard to see the difference. I think I see it only because I know it exists.

 

[Mrak]

Thank all!, The batts I ordered with the light, are the tenergy rechargeables. Protected at 3.0v I believe. I will have to wait and see. Thanks also for the friendly welcomes!!!!
MRAK

 

[mdocod]

the "3.0V" variety of li-ion cells have overall been reported to work pretty well in these types of lights.. they do slightly modify the behavior of the modes (how bright they are) but not as bad as with a 3.7V cell, and the light should not be in any danger from too much voltage.

Please, understand, that those Tenergy 3.0V protected cells are actually 3.7V lithium cobalt cells with a diode mounted within the cells shrink-wrap that cuts down the output voltage by about 0.7V from what it would normally run at. This makes the cells compatible with more sensitive lights like the PD20, but it also changes the charging requirements. The chargers that come with these cells must overcome the voltage drop caused by the diode in reverse, which means that they charge to ~4.4-4.5V instead of the usual 4.2V for regular 3.7V cells. If you have 3.7V cells, or ever plan to get them, you absolutely must NOT use them in the charger provided with the Tenergy 3.0V cells.

 

[Mrak]

Thanks for the info. I will pay close attention to batt/light combos. Do similar issues occur with RECHARGEABLE AA's. I am thinking of purchasing some AA based high performance lights. What should I look out for?
MRAK

 

[mdocod]

There are plenty of issues around AA rechargeable cells, but most of them are different in nature. The issues here is that the consumer really needs to completely drop the whole concept of "bigger numbers means better." A good rechargeable NIMH chemistry AA cell should meet a number of criteria. First and foremost, it should be fool-proof and trouble free. You should be able to just use them without having to "mess" with them to keep them working. They should be capable of holding a charge, at least for a few weeks/months above ~80% of the total capacity, and they should be able to do this even after heavy use and abuse for many cycles. They should be well matched in actual capacity and close to their label ratings right out of the package (after a top-up charge) so that the cells perform together well without causing problems.

So, with all that in mind, the standard recommendation from CPF, is Sanyo Eneloops (or one of the re-badges, do a search). They don't sport huge numbers on the label, but they are robust in ways that can't be described on a label with a simple number.

Keep in mind that the quality of the charger is just as important as the quality of the cells. Gets a charger that charges each channel individually with a smart termination method.

There are also li-ion cells in "AA" size, they are sold as 14500 size cells. You should probably avoid these unless you know where they belong as their higher operating voltage (3.2V or 3.7V depending on chemistry) will destroy most electronics that call for regular AA cells.

Eric