Regulators, can i run 2x p4's off 1?

Pitto

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
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i am in a bit of a quandrum. i have done the mounts to my LED lights i am building and i had 2x drop ins wired in series and when i hooked up 9.6vc, both blew thier regulators. the p4's are ok, but i have now ordered some replacement regulators from DX and should get here next week.

my question is, i have 9.6v, 3000ah battery and i want to drive 2x p4 leds. can i run 2x p4 leds and use only 1 regulator to drive it? ifnot, whats the best way to acheive this.

heres the link to the regulator.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256
 
most regulators don't like to run in series, could be why they blew...


looked @ you link... saw the below...look like he has done it

Ownership verified by DX 3.6V~9V 800mA Regulated IC Circuit Board
Posted by roznerd on 7/24/2007
Involvement: General (knows how to use it) - Ownership: more than 1 month

P

Pros: -Small diameter ( 17mm I think)
- Fairly efficient ( 85% based on (power out)/(power in). The load was 2 SSC P4's in series with a 7.8v input voltage.
- Actual current output was 820-850mA


Cons: - If you want to use it outside of a flashlight you have to solder directly to the PCB. The outer ring is - and inner pad is + input. The Red+ and black- wires are the output

Other Thoughts: There is a negligable voltage drop across the reg. I'm not sure how it will handle as the battery discharge. Still happy with it.



so try 2 SSC P4 in series form one regulator, as he has done...

K
 
Yeah, i read his review. i didnt know about the regs not liking series connection, and actually thought i was doing the right thing by doing so.

whe i tested them individually, i ran 9.6v thru them just fine, the problem arous when it came to mounting them and the choice of series or parrelle came up and i thought by doing them in series, they would run better.

obviously not.

i just pulled apart the modules and the leds are ok, which i am glad about.

G
 
Err if you are using a 9.6v battery... after charging it will be higher...your circuit says 9v max... might have to rip a cell out of the pack...or see how it goes...

K
 
i might use a 6 aa battery box instead. that way max voltage will be 9v using 1.5 alkalines or 7.2v using rechargables just to be on the safe side

G
 
7.2v is great to work with as all the RC cars run off it, so charges & batterys are really cheap from hobby stores...

Hey AA suck...try SUBC... if you go to a hobby store they are cheap... a 3300ma/hr 7.2v subC nimh pack really hold thier volts under load well...

K
 
what about these Regulators?

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut763

and i will still be able to use my 9.6v battery packs.

pitto-lights.jpg


G
 
Last edited:
Wow that is a real cheap option, & should drive 2 LED in series.

read as a 'flow' chart it would be wired right...

it would work...


but from my experence, PWM driven light can some times look 'flikery' when moved up & down real fast... like riding a bike down a hill for example...I have not tried this driver & can not commint on how it works, it may have a very fast switching cycle & be totaly fine... I can not say...

I use Constant Current rather than PWM driven lights. everyone is different...:thumbsup:


K
 
■ Features
- Input Voltage:
AC 10.0-13.5V (50/60Hz),
DC 6.0 -16.0V.
- Output current 680mA, voltage
2.2-4.5V.
- High current accuracy <+/-5%.
- PWM Control,Soft-start.
- High Efficiency 75%.
- Long lifetime > 30,000 hours
continuous.
- Open, short, thermal and
polarity protection.
- Small Form Factor Assembly

Yeah, but the output voltage is 4.5v max, so i will have to run 1 per LED instead of what i have drawn. :eek:oo:

G
 
[posted on mtbr also]

Alrighty, heres an updated schematic that im trying to do. i have also attached images of the housings i have made, there are two, but have pics of one.

G

pitto-lights-2.jpg


PITTO-LED1.jpg


PITTO-LED2.jpg


PITTO-LED3.jpg


PITTO-LED4.jpg


and yes, the images in my last post have gone due to photobucket links changing. tnx

G
 
your way will work...

but I would not do that... if I HAD to use a 9.6v battery & 4 LEDs....:D


one word, fatman

dude you have gone to far in the directions of 'problems' due to too much poop~!!

FATMAN:


* Constant current regulator.
* Boost topology (step up converter), must always have a load connected.
* Dimming capability via external potentiometer.
* Onboard trimpot to set maximum output current.
* 0.80" diameter board, single sided components. 0.26" maximum thickness.
* High efficiency (typically 90% or better).
* 2.7V - 12V input voltage.
* 3V - 16V output voltage.
* Output current 1000mA (max), depends on input/output voltage differential.
* Capable of driving 1 or 2 series connected Luxeon 5W LEDs or 2 to 4 series connected Luxeon 1W or Luxeon 3 LEDs.


it should drive 4 Led from 9.6v no problem... now you only hooking up 6 wires instead of 16+ way less chance of something going wrong, when bouncing around in the bush...

BTW great pic!!! your a pro... please keep up posted...

best

K
 
we have been making progress. the initial disaster may have been a mini miracle after all as it has made me re design the wiring and do some tweeking.

the old regulators have been ripped out and backfilled with metal based epoxy creating a mini heatsink in itself. the new drivers i have bought will handle bothe the series led's and the desired imput voltage of 9.6v

pics will be posted once i finish soldering up and test it for burn time.

G
 
A mate of mine got some DX 3.6v-9v 800mA regulators in the 4 pack. I have wired my setup in series with 2 x SSC P4's also from DX. Using a 6xAA pack will give you 7.2v @ 1.2v or off the charger at 8.64v @ ~1.44.

I will have photos shortly. In the mean time you can check out some of my photos here. Here are some tips.

1. 10.4-10.8v gave a little sparkle firework display before smoking up. A friend of mine thought the regulator could handle it and it did but for a short time. ~3hrs run time before the burn out. I timed this the first time I had the light go for extended run times and I clocked ~1hr runtime with the dual LED's. The other 2 hours I figured was ~5-10mins at a time and this was not timed. So yah in short bursts the higher out of spec. battery voltage will work but in the end it may fry out.

2. I had the dual LED lights wired in parallel before when the second regulator fried. Thankfully this time it was just a smoke up and no fireworks. I was using a 6xAA NIMH 2500 Energizers off the charger so I was well within the 9v spec. range. My mate said that it fried because it's in parallel but also wondered if ... ...

3. .. ... if the LED was 'isolated'. I did the test he told me to by keeping the red wire on a single LED (the other was desoldered) and unsolder the black wire on the regulator, hook up the battery, then touch the black wire to the heatsink. If the light lights up then it's not isolated. In my case the light did not light up so I was ok and he narrowed it down to it being wired in parallel that blew the regulator. The regulator did not blow right away. I was able to use the dual LED setup for ~2hrs.


I'm on my third regulator right now being a total noob in electronics. The books make me fall asleep reading it. I'm a hands on do-it person or do-it side by side with someone then I can learn. After building the item and using a few times then I will start to understand what I did slowly then getting hit with a ton of books quick I won't have any reference to then.

So far my 3rd regulator is working well. I clocked 18mins on the bike ride outside with my dual LED now wired in series. I have about ~30mins non-continuious on time so I'm not going into the dead of thw woods anytime soon till this unit is reliable enough. I'm using a driled out m*g 2xAA reflector and used a MEC Shark 1W reflector which fits the LED perfectly with ~1mm play room to move around. The m*g reflector is drilled to the right hole but it's thickness needs to be sanded down more so the LED can raise up and rest inside the reflector. Right now the top of the LED is just showing up at the base of the inside of the m*g reflector so the m*g reflector is only catching whatever scattered light below and funneling it wide forwards. Right now I have a wide WIDE flood with a spot-flood setup with those two reflectors. Definately need some optics here to improve the focus and useability of the lights. Riding right now is only good as a front light at ~1-1.5m for good light. At about 3m it loses it's light because of the flood. I have a 1W helmet light to suppliment the long range while I test more.


Hope this helps someone.
 
i too are a hands on, i get lost in the algebraic conversion mathematics.

i am going to give 6xAA a go and see how the go. i have two lights sets on the go, but i will complete 1 first to make sure it works, then the second should follow suit without any hassles. that way i only burn out 1 set, or need to fix 1 set.

the m@g head idea sounds good. i also have seen the new tri led flashlights that DX have and was thinking about a mod conversion for a bikelight. maybe another time. just have to finish what i started first

G
 
built up first liggt lastnight and had it running for half an hour. i will hook it up today and run it to make sure its going to last the distance. 30mins and there wasnt alot of heat buildup on the housing itself.

more info later

G
 
ok, heres some built up pics

using 4x drop ins - cree p4's
1x kennen regulators after cooking the ones built in the drop ins
alloy tube & plastic caps
conduit clips
2.4mm dc power connections and a handfull of hookup wire.

run time is 2.5 hours non stop

the conduit clips will have 5mm zipties on them to help retain the lights on the bars. at the moment the clips are a nice tight fit.

PBL001.jpg


PBL002.jpg


BIKELIGHT.jpg
 
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