Rehabbing my E2D

[Joe Talmadge]

I have an E2D that I never use anymore, and have decided to rehab. I'd like to find a high power LED conversion head for it that does not blow the E2's form factor, and keeps a tactical-style beam rather than a wall-of-light beam. I only have found a couple of options.

OpticHQ's 2-stage 220-lumen head at $80: http://www.opticshq.com/Merchant2/m...t_Code=FL-TLS-TX2-2&Category_Code=Flashlights

Surefire's 120-lumen KX2C at $135: http://www.surefire.com/KX2C-LED-HEAD

I expect SF to be low-balling their lumen numbers, and OpticHQ to be using bulb lumens.

What other options are there that people are happy with?

 

[Sgt. LED]

Make an XP-E drop-in like Koala did with the Rebel100.

 

[s.c.]

Buying a brand new head doesn't seem very wise to me. For the same price, you could get something like a TK-10 or a Jet-III military and keep the E2 as it is. Actually, with the money left over, you could get a high output bulb (still incandescent). An incandescent is nice to have once in a while.

I'm still kicking myself for buying my E2 instead of a 6P when I first got into lights.

 

[Kato]

If your E2D body will accept a 17670 cell, you can use the head from a Nitecore Extreme.

 

[Justin Case]

The OpticsHQ 2-stage head uses a serial mode switching user interface which IMO is unsuitable for "tactical" use. IIRC, the default is High mode. If you cycle your momentary-on switch within 2 minutes, the next press will give you Low mode. Then High again, etc. There is no way to get High mode every time if you rapidly cycle the light. Or even not so rapidly, since the mode memory time is 2 minutes.

I would try to get their single-stage head, if you otherwise like their product.

I personally like the single-stage OpticsHQ head. Based on MrGman's measurements of the TNVC P60 drop-in (same product as the OpticsHQ P60 drop-in), I would assume that this E-series replacement head is rated using emitter lumens, not out the front lumens. The beam quality is very nice IMO.

If you are handy, you could try a P7 or MC-E transplant.

An incandescent solution, if that is of any interest, is to get a Z46 bezel with an MN11 high-output lamp and an OpticsHQ M to E Series adapter, and drive the works with two IMR16340 cells. You'll get a lot of light from this setup. It may "blow the E2's form factor", however.

 

[Illum]

Buying a brand new head doesn't seem very wise to me. For the same price, you could get something like a TK-10 or a Jet-III military and keep the E2 as it is. Actually, with the money left over, you could get a high output bulb (still incandescent). An incandescent is nice to have once in a while.

I'm still kicking myself for buying my E2 instead of a 6P when I first got into lights.

well...the easy way out is to get yourself a back E series head from the forum, Lumens factory EO-E2R lamp, and some RCR123As...which rounds to about $50:thumbsup:

 

[saabgoblin]

Nothing wrong with an Incandescent IMHO so keep it as a backup and when the bulb finally blows, then you can make the choice. Many things can and will probably change before that bulb blows so get your money out of it first.

 

[Joe Talmadge]

Thanks guys, I'm going to stick with primaries and I am definitely not handy, so some of those options you suggested were really good but won't work for me. I agree with you Justin that the two-stage is not suitable for my intended use, I would go with the one-stage or another route. The SF options are too expensive for what they are, for me, so I won't go that route either. Definitely planning to stick with LED for this one.

s.c., you're right, for the same price I can buy a whole lot that does exactly what I want it to do. It's just that the E2 is so damn nice, and in particular I love the switch, that I'm possily making a less-than-perfect economic decision by going with a new head.

 

[Chrontius]

Send it to Milkyspit for a roomsweeper conversion? $155, 600-800 lumens for 20 minutes (wall-o-light though) depending on the charge state on one 17670.

 

[harddrive]

Thanks guys, I'm going to stick with primaries and I am definitely not handy, so some of those options you suggested were really good but won't work for me. I agree with you Justin that the two-stage is not suitable for my intended use, I would go with the one-stage or another route. The SF options are too expensive for what they are, for me, so I won't go that route either. Definitely planning to stick with LED for this one.

s.c., you're right, for the same price I can buy a whole lot that does exactly what I want it to do. It's just that the E2 is so damn nice, and in particular I love the switch, that I'm possily making a less-than-perfect economic decision by going with a new head.

Buy yourself an Eagletac P100C2. Basically the same size as your E2E, super bright, 2 hours plus on a set of CR123s, great switch, a low level if you need it (but will never get in your way as it is only accessed by head twist) and under $40. This light is the best value light I have owned. For those on a limited budget this light is a must IMHO.

Lots on info in this thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=225153

 

[Joe Talmadge]

Thanks harddrive, given that I don't love any of the options for my E2D yet, that light looks spot-on and is nearly E2D form factor, that or maybe something liek the Olight T20-T which appears to be the same size and have a suitable UI. I'm going to give this thread a little more time for ideas, but probably need to resign myself to the idea that my E2D won't be rehab'ed.

 

[Owen]

Joe, you might check out the threads on the latest L4 with SSC P4 emitter.
The new KL4(A?) sounds like it might be right up your alley.

 

[zx7dave]

Send it to Milkyspit for a roomsweeper conversion? $155, 600-800 lumens for 20 minutes (wall-o-light though) depending on the charge state on one 17670.

Indeed...send to the Dr....he will fix it at the Milky Labs....

 

[Spydermonkey]

I made a franken-lego light out of mine. I did it on the cheap since I was on a budget at the time. I used a TNC adaptor and got a Solarforce bezel and a R2 drop-in. It does make the light a bit bigger than its original size but I can use any P60 drop-in now.

 

[Mvalenz]

I made a franken-lego light out of mine. I did it on the cheap since I was on a budget at the time. I used a TNC adaptor and got a Solarforce bezel and a R2 drop-in. It does make the light a bit bigger than its original size but I can use any P60 drop-in now.

Where could I find that TNC adaptor? Also would that adaptor fit a regular 6P defender bezel?