SureFire E2D Emitter

[scalpel_ninja]

I recently picked up an older generation E2D (500 lumen?) and expected the beam to be ugly with tint shift and all. However, the hotspot has this weird four-petal flower pattern. I noticed the emitter has a bow-tie dark spot. Now I expect shadows to be cast on the emitter when looking at it through the optic/reflector, but this dark spot doesn't seem to go away or change in shape when moving the head around and looking at it under different angles and lighting. Any ideas or experiences?

 

[F89]

Hard to tell from the photo but the LED looks fried to me.

 

[F89]

Personally I'd mod it. Open up the head using heat to break the thread lock seal and change the board to a copper one with your LED of choice and possibly driver too if desired.

 

[F89]

 

[scalpel_ninja]

View attachment 52277View attachment 52276

Nice! Is that a W1 emitter? Did you swap out the driver? Is that the same generation E2D as mine?

 

[F89]

I'd have to look up the name, but it's the one that everyone is using with the small die.

This particular example was an E1B (300 lumen), I did also swap the driver to a 2.3A programmable type.

I've also done an E1D (300 lumen) with the same LED but kept the stock driver, and an EDCL1T with the same LED and kept stock driver.

 

[F89]

An interesting note:

I found that the EDCL1T has a tighter/smaller spot than both the E1B and E1D (which are basically the same size).

EDC left, E1B right.

 

[F89]

PCB/LED from the EDC.

 

[scalpel_ninja]

PCB/LED from the EDC.

View attachment 52282View attachment 52283

Very cool! What have you found to be the best way to open the glued heads? How do you safely heat them and how do you get a secure grip to torque without marring the finish?

 

[F89]

Sometimes they require pretty decent heat. You may get away with a strong hair dryer or you might need a heat gun or even small butane touch.
You might get away with strap wrenches or a rubber glove or you might need to use vice grips with a rubber wrap or some such.

 

[F89]

You can even keep the back of the head looking and functioning stock after a driver swap. It's actually, for me anyway, easier to do it this way.

One is with stock driver, the other has been swapped. Which is which?

 

[scalpel_ninja]

You can even keep the back of the head looking and functioning stock after a driver swap. It's actually, for me anyway, easier to do it this way.

One is with stock driver, the other has been swapped. Which is which?
View attachment 52291

Very nice! I looked at the emitter up close and with low light. I think you're right because the dark patch has some visible traces poking through. I've emailed SureFire to see what they might offer. On the other hand, this might be a good host to mod as it's a user and didn't cost very much.

 

[F89]

They might offer you a nice new E2D?

If not, why not have a crack at it?
I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have to assist you.

 

[scalpel_ninja]

They might offer you a nice new E2D?

If not, why not have a crack at it?
I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have to assist you.

Much appreciated! 😀

 

[F89]

You're welcome.

 

[vicv]

PCB/LED from the EDC.

View attachment 52282View attachment 52283

Anyone know what emitter this is? I've always been curious what emitter they use in this series.

 

[F89]

It varies, but this example (EDCL1T) is an XPL.

The 300 lumen E1B and E1D use an XPG2.

 

[vicv]

It varies, but this example (EDCL1T) is an XPL.

The 300 lumen E1B and E1D use an XPG2.

I figured they had gone to the XPL. Managing to get that output and the floodier beam. They must be absolutely hammering those poor cr123a cells. Probably over 3.5A when they're getting low. It was a real shame when surefire joined the lumen war

 

[jon_slider]

How do you safely heat them

I find that setting an aluminium head on my reflow hotplate, set to just 100C, works safely to soften loctite, on other lights.. no direct surefire experience

These channel lock wrenches w rubber jaws have a good reputation for opening difficult lights.

To prevent marring, I first put a wrap of blue painters tape around the light.

good luck w your mod

 

[desert.snake]

Obviously burnt. The e2d may have the same diode as the eb2, the photo was from here - led-resource com

Osram Oslon Square LED
So replacing a burnt out osram with a new osram is very good