Replacing clicky in Romisen RC-I3

[djcombes]

Recently got an RC-I3, but the clicky in the tail is defective. Same problem as described here

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=181226

Basically the light works intermittently with 2xAA and CR123, and not at all on 1xAA. The switch has a high and variable closed resistance (at least 5 ohms).

I think that I am being sent a new light to replace the defective one, so if I can get it working that would be a bonus for me.

I see that the review from Bessiebunny states that the clicky can be easily replaced. I'm not sure how to do this, or where to get a replacement. Can any of the experts here help?

Idiot proof guide would be good. I've read someone say that the boot can be prised off, but it seems pretty firmly stuck down?

First post BTW.

 

[djcombes]

By the way - the extra thread is not my fault. Honest. I only clicked once. Took ages though so maybe the browser re-sent or something. Anyone know how to delete a thread? Mods?

 

[TONY M]

:welcome:
OK, I don't know where to get a clicky that fits but I'll tell you how to remove it.

First of all remove the tailcap, then get a pair of needle nose pliars or (with small tips) that fit into two the holes drilled into the switch (these are found when viewed from the inside of the tailcap and are on either side of the spring). Insert pliar tips into these and twist anti-clockwise to remove switch.

It should come out easily but try tightening it a bit first incase there it is not in well and has been causing the problems you report. You should clean it also as dirt from the factory is often an issue with contacts.

The boot can only come out when the switch is removed.

 

[djcombes]

Yay! Fixed it now. I was lacking the courage to apply a pair of mole grips to the tailcap to get it off. Bit of tape on the grips prevented damage to the light, and once it was open the rest was simple.

Just in case anyone else has the same issue, I'll describe the fix (at least for mine). The tailcap just holds the rubber boot. Once that's removed you can see a circular disk with two holes that clamps the PCB with the switch on against a lip in the body. The disk has a hole in for the clicker to poke through. The PCB has an annular track around the outside that it intended to clamp to the lip on the body to make electrical contact. A spring is soldered to an inner electrical contact to make contact with the battery.

On mine there were two issues - the PCB had been crunched during assembly, and part of the edge crushed up. In addition the soldering of the spring was not good, with potential for a short between spring and case (not good with unprotected Li Ion cells).

I sorted out the soldering issues, and soldered some bumps onto the outer disk to ensure a good soft contact with the torch body. Now all is well.

The possibility of a direct short of a Li ion battery is a bit worrying. Another reason to steer clear of unprotected Li ion cells.

 

[TONY M]

Glad you are back on you're feet djcombes!