Replacing the E1e+KL1.

[KevinL]

This little light of mine is a big favorite. Hard as heck to kill and keeps coming back to my keyring even after I try to replace it.

I am looking at something that is similar to the E1L with a new super LED - one of the Cree or Seoul emitters, which ever is brighter and has a pleasing white tint. No puke green or pus yellow. If it has to have a tint, give me a Luxeon WA (slightly red) tint or Y0/YA (HID blue) tint.

MUST have click switch. Prefer similar size and formfactor to E1L. Need mission-critical reliability and therefore Surefire is the front runner for the replacement (E1L), but the new E1L won't be out for a while yet.

I know you can simply drop a Seoul into my existing E1e+KL1, but the housing is pretty battered and I'm looking at replacing the whole light. I have a classic Z52 twist switch on this one too.. want a Z57.

What would you guys recommend? Two stage variable power would be nice. Willing to look at custom lights too, if I cannot find what I want off the shelf.

 

[Long John]

That's my favourite EDC:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=157529

Perfect form factor, incredible bright, 2 brightness levels with looong runtime and very robust due to the simplicity construction, besides that....dive rated up to 2,30 meters.....by myself:lolsign:

Best regards

____
Tom

 

[brightspot]

I needed to replace my E1L my E1 body was in good shape so I just put a KL4 head on it, I love it plus running off of rcr123 guilt free. good luck in your quest

 

[BBL]

MUST have click switch. Prefer similar size and formfactor to E1L. Need mission-critical reliability and therefore Surefire is the front runner for the replacement (E1L), but the new E1L won't be out for a while yet.

Uh, if you want a clickie with reliability sufficient for mission-critical use, you should RUN away from the Z57s.

 

[Strauss]

Uh, if you want a clickie with reliability sufficient for mission-critical use, you should RUN away from the Z57s.

Agreed. You should look into modding your KL1 head with a Seoul emitter....it will jump your output from ~30 lumens to ~90 lumens!

 

[1wrx7]

I got my seoul modded KL1 yesterday and the output is awsome. I'm shocked at what a led and a reflector can do even without changing the driver board.

 

[Wave]

I concur. I recently had my KL1 upgraded by "grnamin". AWESOME!

I got my seoul modded KL1 yesterday and the output is awsome. I'm shocked at what a led and a reflector can do even without changing the driver board.

 

[KAM]

D-Mini is good but the head is a bit big

 

[CandlePowerForumsUser]

+1 for upgrading the KL1. I own one and very happy with it.

 

[KevinL]

Man, is it really time to carve up my classic KL1?

For a long time I used to say "It's not a KL1 till I see the NX05 'square in circle' beam pattern"..... is it really time for me to give that up so I can get a rockin' blaster of a LED?

I have had good luck with the Z57's and I think I will continue to use them. Of course, every flashaholic has two lights with them, so that is not such a huge issue

I was thinking of modding a SF L1, but the L1 doesn't have a clickie.....

 

[louie]

I have 2 Gen 1/2 KL1s and modded both - first from low domes to highs, now to SSCs. Even at original drive current (350mA, I believe), they're mebbe about the 60 lumen range. I went to IMS 17 reflectors as the NX05 gave a terrible beam with the SSCs - blotchy and varying colors. The IMS17 isn't perfect, either, but it's pretty good for $5. Runs 85 minutes on one Battery Station RCR123 before the cell shuts down. Mildly warm. I use the McE2s tails.

 

[KevinL]

Sounds good to me. I would probably drive half an amp..

Speaking of customized tails, is there a CLICKIE two-stage switch?

 

[jlomein]

Speaking of customized tails, is there a CLICKIE two-stage switch?

If you find one let me know. I have settled on ordering a McE2S two stage switch, but I would really prefer a clicky.

Is it really hard to design a switch that works like:

-press button for momentary
-click button for constant
-tailcap fully twisted for full power
-tailcap less twisted for low power
-tailcap even less twisted for lock out