kramer5150
Flashaholic
Video review here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxI5CY4ikEE
CHEERS
-Cheapest way to upgrade a 6P to thumb-click.
-Nice heft and solid feel/weight.
-Feels as solid/robust as the OEM SF cap.
-Raised rim around switch helps prevent accidental activation and protects switch when dropped.
-NICE tight engagement with O-ring.
-Smooth lanyard hole.
-No sharp or jagged edges anywhere.
-After some rework (see video) the 6P body contacts the switch pill directly, so there is no electrical conduction through the threads. Ground current is conducted directly between the switch pill and the 6P body.
-The rubber switch boot is water-tight, splash proof at least. I suspect that it is more water resistant than the OEM SF twist cap, and can be cycled on-off while submerged. I completely dis-assembled the cap and put a heavy layer of O-ring grease around the rubber boot to water-seal it tight against the cap metal.
JEERS
-Excessive anodize build up on threads.
-Fresh out of the box it would not fit on my SF 6P. I had to really torque down on it to get the cap to "plow" through the anodize build up. My hands were sore and tired, but it was worth the effort.
-Click-switch was really "creaky / sticky" feeling when half pressed. I had to completely take apart the switch pill and place several drops of light oil into the switch to free it up. I am not sure how long it will last between re-lubes and a complete failure. By comparison the reverse clicky switch in my WF-501B is MUCH smoother and better feeling quality. That switch has not failed yet.
GENERAL COMMENTS
For $3.50 shipped its a cheap way to upgrade your 6P to a clicky. You could buy 10-15 of these for the price of one real-deal Surefire. If you just want a switch that works, forget this one and spend the $$$ for a Surefire and have confidence in their legendary customer service. If the $3.50 clicky seizes or fails just throw it away or do what I did and lube it with some light oil to free it back up. After generously lubing it, it is now very smooth... although reliability still remains a question mark. Likewise after plowing through all that built up anodize the threads are BUTTERY smooth... on par with the OEM 6P tailcap. I find it ironic that most of the complaints regarding Chinese made lights is loose fitting threads or not enough of them that engage with mating parts. This product suffers from the opposite.
Cosmetically it has a very different look and anodize color than my 6P. But heck for $3.50, I would rather praise it for being unique, different and NOT a clone of the existing 6P cap:thumbsup:. I think after a few dings and drops it will look much more at home on my semi-worn 6P.
For $3.50, don't expect much and you will be surprised with its feel, fit and heft. A little rework and inginuity makes it all worth while. It can be easily taken apart and modded. So if you find a higher quality switch-part you can mod it easily.
I am happy with this purchase, although I would hesitate to recommend it openly. Its NOT a drop-in replacement, at least mine was not. It took about an hour of fiddling with it to get it to work smoothly.
Anyhoot...:twothumbs:twothumbs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxI5CY4ikEE
CHEERS
-Cheapest way to upgrade a 6P to thumb-click.
-Nice heft and solid feel/weight.
-Feels as solid/robust as the OEM SF cap.
-Raised rim around switch helps prevent accidental activation and protects switch when dropped.
-NICE tight engagement with O-ring.
-Smooth lanyard hole.
-No sharp or jagged edges anywhere.
-After some rework (see video) the 6P body contacts the switch pill directly, so there is no electrical conduction through the threads. Ground current is conducted directly between the switch pill and the 6P body.
-The rubber switch boot is water-tight, splash proof at least. I suspect that it is more water resistant than the OEM SF twist cap, and can be cycled on-off while submerged. I completely dis-assembled the cap and put a heavy layer of O-ring grease around the rubber boot to water-seal it tight against the cap metal.
JEERS
-Excessive anodize build up on threads.
-Fresh out of the box it would not fit on my SF 6P. I had to really torque down on it to get the cap to "plow" through the anodize build up. My hands were sore and tired, but it was worth the effort.
-Click-switch was really "creaky / sticky" feeling when half pressed. I had to completely take apart the switch pill and place several drops of light oil into the switch to free it up. I am not sure how long it will last between re-lubes and a complete failure. By comparison the reverse clicky switch in my WF-501B is MUCH smoother and better feeling quality. That switch has not failed yet.
GENERAL COMMENTS
For $3.50 shipped its a cheap way to upgrade your 6P to a clicky. You could buy 10-15 of these for the price of one real-deal Surefire. If you just want a switch that works, forget this one and spend the $$$ for a Surefire and have confidence in their legendary customer service. If the $3.50 clicky seizes or fails just throw it away or do what I did and lube it with some light oil to free it back up. After generously lubing it, it is now very smooth... although reliability still remains a question mark. Likewise after plowing through all that built up anodize the threads are BUTTERY smooth... on par with the OEM 6P tailcap. I find it ironic that most of the complaints regarding Chinese made lights is loose fitting threads or not enough of them that engage with mating parts. This product suffers from the opposite.
Cosmetically it has a very different look and anodize color than my 6P. But heck for $3.50, I would rather praise it for being unique, different and NOT a clone of the existing 6P cap:thumbsup:. I think after a few dings and drops it will look much more at home on my semi-worn 6P.
For $3.50, don't expect much and you will be surprised with its feel, fit and heft. A little rework and inginuity makes it all worth while. It can be easily taken apart and modded. So if you find a higher quality switch-part you can mod it easily.
I am happy with this purchase, although I would hesitate to recommend it openly. Its NOT a drop-in replacement, at least mine was not. It took about an hour of fiddling with it to get it to work smoothly.
Anyhoot...:twothumbs:twothumbs
Last edited: