ROP 2D battery options

[paulmarcellini]

Trying to cut costs here and there...I have a ultrafire wf 139 already so i was wondering if there is an easy alternative to the 6aa to 2D option, like some batteries that fit the charger i have. Also what reflector gives good throw and not too much artifact? Sorry I know there is a ton of info but I am getting lost in all the threads. I just want to make this as cheap and practical as I can.(College Kid)

Thanks guys, Paul

 

[carbine15]

2 Lithium Ion 3.6 volt D cell batteries would work. There are some dangerous aspects to Lithium ion batteries you should be aware of though especially when charged / discharged in series and with unprotected cells. Other than that.. I'd say two 3AA to 1D holders work too. I fired up my ROP yesterday on two 3AAA - C sized holders I got from lights at the dollar store fitted inside two C-D converters that came with my Lacrosse charger. Runtime would suffer greatly. With 6AAA in series I wouldnt expect more than 5-10 minutes with NIMH rechargeable AAA batteries.

 

[paulmarcellini]

Sorry let me refine what I want...protected batteries that give me a runtime of about an hour with the low bulb. Can protected 18650's work if i use something around them?

 

[cmaylodm]

Another fellow poor college student flashaholic here... I have run the ROP-Low on two protected 18650s, but you must use AW's high current protected 18650s if you want to run the bulb without multiple clicks to warm up the filament first. To hold the batteries, buy a piece of pipe insulation at your local hardware store (bring your flashlight to see what works) and trim it down to size. You will also need to cut/bend the tailcap spring to allow for the increased length of the 18650s. I'd estimate the runtime at 45-60 minutes, but if you plan on running it for this length of time constantly you'll need a UCL or borofloat lens, as I melted the stock plastic lens. The reflector was fine, however. Hope this helps!

 

[paulmarcellini]

thanks cmaylodm...I can't wait to get this thing running.

 

[speederino]

The ROP low bulb is right at the threshold for the stock plastic reflector. I recall someone running the ROP low face down (stress test) and having the reflector melt down on them. As long as you are aware of that fact and manage the heat accordingly, you should be OK.

Wait a few weeks (I know, it's hard...) and AW will have high-cap C-cell sized Li-ions available. Should run the ROP high for 45+ and the ROP low for quite a while. All in a 2C size no-spring-mod setup. I'm looking forward to the 3C-sized Mag85 these cells will make possible myself!

 

[KEW]

Any idea on the price of the hi-cap C cells?

 

[bridgman]

One option would be to pick up the 6aa welded packs that Mad Maxabeam is selling. Less expensive than the adapter and already comes with batteries, just plug & play :

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=150788

 

[paulmarcellini]

Man i thought i had it covered, now you guys are giving me options...will those c sized Li-ions be rechargeable and protected? That runtime sounds great. And bridgman...what would i need to charge those welded packs? Sorry for all the questions guys...thanks again.

 

[bridgman]

No worries about the questions, we're all learning...

For charging the welded packs, a good option seems to be the chargers that Alin is selling here :

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=104771

I know Mad Maxabeam sells the same charger to go with his flashlights and may sell them separately (I bought my charger from MM with a flashlight) and I think he's including the magnetic charging leads with the battery packs. I'd never heard of using magnets to attach charging leads but it seems to work real well.

A more versatile option, although I haven't used it myself, is the Maha pack charger with a model# like C777Plus2 or something like that. The advantage, I think, is a wider range of voltages and charging options -- the first charger I mentioned comes in different models for different # of cells, the one I have handles from 6 to 10 NiMH / NiCad cells and won't work with 5-cell sticks or with lithium cells.

The C lithium cells from AW are both rechargeable and protected as far as I know. I haven't messed with lithium cells yet but they sure sound interesting.

HOLD ON -- I didn't know what an Ultrafire wf 139 was at first (figured it was another flashlight I couldn't afford ) but Google tells me it's a lithium battery charger so I guess that's another argument for going with a couple of lithium batteries.

Here is AW's thread for most Li cells : http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=140362&page=1

Here is AW's thread for the C cells : http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=106075&page=1

To my little mind, a couple of AW's 18650s (2 at $12 ea) and some spring trimming -- crushing lithium cells is a Bad Thing -- seems like the way to go.

 

[Pokerstud]

Man i thought i had it covered, now you guys are giving me options...will those c sized Li-ions be rechargeable and protected? That runtime sounds great. And bridgman...what would i need to charge those welded packs? Sorry for all the questions guys...thanks again.

Bridgman is giving you good sound options and advice. When you break down the cost of say a Fivemega battery holder AND the cells, you'd be better off with the welded packs, no mess, no fuss. I am not exactly sure he makes ROP packs or not, but.....The magnetic charging leads are simply a 2" piece of wire attached to a small magnet ( perpendicular ). You put one lead on each end of the battery pack, attack your universal smart charger to the leads ( observing polarity ), plug 'er in, go away for a couple hours, and your done. I even have a spare set of charging leads I am willing to send to you, if you so desire.

 

[paulmarcellini]

thanks for the offer pokerstud, i appreciate it. I think i am going to go with the 18650's since i have a charger for them. I had one last question, would i need to get aw's 18650's to light up the low or can i use the ultrafires at dealextreme that are half the price?

 

[cmaylodm]

AW's 18650s are the only ones that will fire up the ROP-Low without multiple clicks, which is a PITA.

 

[paulmarcellini]

ok one last question, i was trying to modify the spring so it will make contact with some 18650's but i am having a hard time so i was wondering if there was a simpler solution like a premade spacer for the 2d...or any ideas....sorry im just new to the modding

 

[Brighteyez]

How about putting the top loop of the spring into a pair of Vise-Grips and squeezing it until the spring is across the area where it will contact the base of the 18650?

Like the way the spring on the C cell Mag is bent in the illustration at http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/maglite_2c-123a_mod.htm

ok one last question, i was trying to modify the spring so it will make contact with some 18650's but i am having a hard time so i was wondering if there was a simpler solution like a premade spacer for the 2d...or any ideas....sorry im just new to the modding

 

[paulmarcellini]

i tried that...i guess i am weak

 

[cmaylodm]

This is what I did for my tailcap spring mod:

Top View

Side(ish) view (oops--its upside down too):

And finally, the completed assembly:

Another benefit to cutting the spring this way is that you can stash an extra bulb in the base, and there is lower resistance from the lack of anodizing. :rock:

 

[Brighteyez]

It's not a matter of strength, but rather one of leverage. Use a bigger pair of Vise-Grips!

Failing that, you could always pinch the spring in a vise. Just be careful with your placement and wear safety glasses in case the spring breaks loose from either tool.

i tried that...i guess i am weak

 

[paulmarcellini]

ok thanks i will try that

 

[Strauss]

FYI, you can run any pair or 18650's and power up the ROP low bulb on one click...the cells just have to be UNPROTECTED. I run this set-up in a 2D, all I had to do was bend the tailcap spring and put some 1" OD 3/4" ID heater hose around the cells(as well as a borofloat lens and metal reflector). It fires up every time on the first click, and I would estimate around 200-250 lumens on fresh cells.


Side note, if you absolutely need protected cells, than the others are correct in that you will need AW's high current 185650's.....