Sealed toggle switch?

[The Magpie]

Been looking around at switching options and am being tempted down the toggle and rubber boot route, even though I know it's not that well regarded.

Anyway, I came across this toggle which claims to be "epoxy sealed". I was placing an order anyway so I chucked one in and it's turned up.

https://www.rapidonline.com/productinfo.aspx?tier1=Electronic+Components&tier2=Switches&tier3=Toggle+Switches&tier4=Sealed+miniature+PCB+toggle+switches&moduleno=61658

The base of the plastic housing is fully sealed with epoxy so as long as the housing is properly glued into the torch body so i don't see water getting into the torch through it.

I guess it might get into the switch contacts though the ball that is connected to the toggle though?

Thoughts?

 

[Packhorse]

I doubt very much epoxy sealing makes it waterproof.

 

[350xfire]

I doubt very much epoxy sealing makes it waterproof.

Yeah, for $2 each.... I'm doubting the switch can keep out water at any depth.
Nothing wrong with using a toggle and boot... Just not the cool, new thing. I've been using them for a while and no problems. So have Salvo/Light Monkey and Dive Rite...

 

[Packhorse]

I've been using them for a while and no problems. So have Salvo/Light Monkey and Dive Rite...

I hate to be pedantic ( no I dont), but I am sure salvo LM and DR owners have had problems with boots.

But truth be told if you keep a good eye on the boot and replace it when it shows signs of perishing then you will probably be fine. Probably.

 

[The Magpie]

Thanks for the input chaps.

I might just glue it into a sealed box and chuck it in a deep part of the harbour for a few hours, see what happens.

It doesn't have a screw thread otherwise maybe using it with a boot would give a little bit of protection should the boot fail. Could always glue a boot down over it?

 

[Packhorse]

I think you may be misunderstanding the term sealed.

My guess is it is sealed from front to back but the switch contacts will be exposed at the front.

Perhaps water will not enter the cannister through the switch but it may very well get access to the contacts and cause problems.

 

[The Magpie]

That's exactly what I thought, so if the rubber boot fails the switch may get fecked by everything else in the torch, batteries, driver, leds, will be ok.

 

[350xfire]

That's exactly what I thought, so if the rubber boot fails the switch may get fecked by everything else in the torch, batteries, driver, leds, will be ok.

Use the cheapest one that works. If you ever flood the light, the switch is probably the least of your worries and chances are you'll have to rebuild the whole thing anyway. When things flood under pressure water will follow the cable, from the canister side to the light head side, batteries will get messed up, etc. So better to take everything apart and rebuild it anyway.

That is the one thing I do not agree with Salvo/Light Monkey on their sealed lid system. If you flood the light, I don't think a sealed lid will really matter... Now, it may buy you some time, but at some point the water under pressure will flow in the inside of the cable, etc.

Oh, and if the rubber boot fails, water will flow past the switch's shaft. SO you are back to a flooded light.

 

[Klem]

If salt water gets into that toggle it will corrode it to destruction.

Mechanical toggle switches work but they are high profile and prone to being bashed and punctured, unless you protect them somehow with a collar.

If you want to use a basic on/off switch why not use something more streamlined and low profile, like a rocker switch with a waterproof hood.

Here's an example of the rocker;
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SK0984&keywords=rocker+switch&form=KEYWORD

To go with this flexible waterproof hood;
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SK0970&keywords=rocker+switch&form=KEYWORD

To be absolutely sure you can file down the sharp corners of the button so that underwater pressure compressing the hood against the switch won't mess with it, or change the state (I've used this on a torch and it works fine).

There's no O ring for the hood so you use glue to seal it.

Not as elegant as some other types of switches but for under $4 it doesn't get any cheaper or simpler than that.

 

[alpg88]

i use regular or mini toggle switches with rubber boot, i get them from mcmaster carr, and not once i had water get it, neither fresh nor salt, thou mine are not submerged, may be few inches, what i do is before tightening a boot, i put some silicone than tighten it, works great.

the switches you gave us link for aren't made for boots, there is no thread.

but in very few submersible lights i build, i never used anything else but a reed switch, the less chances for leaks the better. plus reed switch are cheap and take little room compare to good submersible switch.

 

[wquiles]

If salt water gets into that toggle it will corrode it to destruction.

+1

I did a repair on a diving light last year that is a good example of corrosion:
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/repairing-your-own-gear/298240-replacement-mc-e-led-head-canister-divelight.html

In fact in posts #15 and #16 you see the cut in the boot, and then the resulting destruction of the switch:
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/4668308-post15.html

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/4668310-post16.html