Semi-hardening glue

karlthev

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Not sure this is in the right spot or not but, I'm looking for the type of glue which doesn't set up rock hard and brittle, particularly during cold weather. I remember seeing this glue someplace or other but where I sure can't remember. The application is on a hiking staff which is used in the Winter. The Gorilla glue I used became brittle and the handle broke off at the glue joint when the staff was dropped.


Karl
 
A person could try a construction adhesive like Liquid Nails. I don't have any data on low temp performance tho.

If you are looking to glue a staff back together forget it.
 
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I'd have to see how the 2 parts go together but it sounds like you might need something stronger than glue. AFAIK epoxy is one of the strongest glues and I don't think it is much more prone to break in cold weather. I've used liquid nails construction adhesive in the cold and I don't believe it is much more prone to break either in coldness. A fiberglass with resin is another possibility. If none of those work you might need a metal bracket or some other way to fasten things together. Again without seeing the actual parts it is hard to say as I can't quite visualize what you have.
 
the stongest i know of and use is called metalset epoxy , it is two parts epoxy and hardens like aircraft aluminum, they using it in the build of aircrafts , and when hardened u can drill it out and rethread it , some strong stuff for sure and it hardens and looks alot like aluminum

hope this helps
madi05

i think the company is a2 and the brand name is metalset
 
If the staff is wood, the best holding is long grain to long grain. If you are trying to glue end grain to end grain, that will always be a very weak joint. End grain to end grain needs some kind of additional support,

Gorilla glue is a good adhesive, but it is not the best in all cases.
 
Unfortunately my bad in describing the use here:shakehead I believe I have given the impression that I have two 3 foot pieces of wood (or at least a long handle) which I want to join together at their ends. Not exactly the case. I just need a glue which doesn't remain tacky but doesn't become rock hard when it sets up. I am now thinking that Shoe Goo may suit my needs. Thanks!



Karl
 
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Yo! In wood one of the best glues is super thin Cyanoacrylate (super glue), if the joint is not to deep and as pointed out above not end grain.

But it sounds like we need to put hypoallergenic titanium screws inside the bone . . . :oops: :welcome: :shrug: :tinfoil:
 
is it possible to put a PVC sleeve of sorts that holds the two parts of the wood and epoxy/glue/bond the joint between them?

this way the stress on the joint could be dispersed to a bigger area and thereby allievating the stress placed on the joint?
 
Illum the nation has a good point. Sounds like you need more support than just glue if it broke the last time when it was dropped. Not sure if you have room but if you do, you could drill a hole in the center of both pieces to be joined & insert some type of metal or wooden dowel, then glue it back together as well as gluing the dowel.
 
The use isn't in a high stress area believe it or not despite being on a staff. It will be used to to attach a decorative carving in place. I had dropped the staff in 10 degree weather and the shock of it hitting the ground cracked the glue joint.



Karl
 
Shoe Goo will not do a joint like that, not even close!

The joint you describe-butting together two long dowels- is a terrible design and very difficult to get any real strength out of. The forces are enormous. Elasticity will not help like you think, the flex will start a tear on the stretched outer surface which propagates through it. But Shoe Goo won't even stick to wood with structural strength. Neither will silicone.

Epoxy is by far your best bet. It will soak into the wood some too.

Urac 185 is a preferred wood glue too.

A woodworker would probably cut it at a sharp 30 deg angle on both sides and lap them together, or use an external sleeve. An internal dowel would be subject to very high stresses due to its smaller diameter. A steel dowel will likely split the wood around it due to grain orientation.

The butt joint on long pieces is simply asking for failure and super-powerful glues are not really a likely solution.
 
The Shoe Goo will do fine. You have to READ ALL of Karl's posts. He's attaching something decorative to the handle, NOT butt joining pieces of wood.

Shoe Goo will not do a joint like that, not even close!

The joint you describe-butting together two long dowels- is a terrible design and very difficult to get any real strength out of. The forces are enormous. Elasticity will not help like you think, the flex will start a tear on the stretched outer surface which propagates through it. But Shoe Goo won't even stick to wood with structural strength. Neither will silicone.

Epoxy is by far your best bet. It will soak into the wood some too.

Urac 185 is a preferred wood glue too.

A woodworker would probably cut it at a sharp 30 deg angle on both sides and lap them together, or use an external sleeve. An internal dowel would be subject to very high stresses due to its smaller diameter. A steel dowel will likely split the wood around it due to grain orientation.

The butt joint on long pieces is simply asking for failure and super-powerful glues are not really a likely solution.
 
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