SF L1 Cree modified (pics)

Energie

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 12, 2006
Messages
302
Location
Germany
I am a fan of small Surefire lights
and I like AW´s Batteries.

The new L1 Cree doesn´t work with RCR123.
So I changed the stock driver to a GD500
from the Sandwich Shoppe and the greenish
Cree to a pure white Seoul USWOH from Photon Fanatic.

Now the L1 can take CR123 / RCR123 (with adapter)
and 17500.
Runtimes with CR123 are the same as before.

Left: stock head
Right: modified head
L1-1.jpg



L1-2.jpg

L1-3.jpg


Stock L1 Cree driver
L1-Driver.jpg



L1 Cree
L1Cree.jpg


L1 Seoul
L1Seoul.jpg
 
It is the SF optic, but I´ve removed the
diffusor under the lens.
 
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Nice!

How hard was it to get the bezel off? Did you need to boil it?

BTW, I didn't know there was a diffuser under the lens. When I look at mine, it is pretty clear.
 
I´ve used a heat gun. The bezel came off quite easy.
The diffusor under the lens is a thin film.

L1-Diffusor.jpg
 
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How to:

1. Open the bezel
2. Desolder the Led
3. Remove the contact pieces under the bezel
4. Use a mill to make some space in the head (see pics)
5. Use a lathe to make the driver pill (see pics)
6. Solder the driver to the pill
7. Solder the wires to the Led
- head ready
8. Remove the stock driver from the body
9. Use a lathe to remove some metal parts under the stock driver
10. Make an adapter for the 123 cells
- body ready

Light on! :naughty:
 
Hello!

Hey you also from Berlin...:grin2:

Nice work you have done there. In the Beamshots it looks
like the Seoul-Mod is not as bright as the stock-cree version...

Is that right?but you'll have more sidespill...:D
 
Yeah the optic works best with the cree. You should put a reflector in there to make the beam nice!
 
toby_pra,
right. The cree version is brighter with a tight spot.

IsaacHayes,
right too. The reflector/seoul version is better than the
optic/seoul version.

L1 /optic /cree
L1oc.jpg


L1 /optic/seoul
L1os.jpg


L1 /McR20S/seoul
L1rs.jpg
 
Hi nanotech,

yes, I´ve removed the driver to make some space
for AA / 17500 batteries.
The new GD500 driver is in the head (see pics post #1).

Empty L1 body
L1-body.jpg


L1 driver / CR123
L1-body2.jpg

Size comparison (CR123 with adapter)
L1-bat.jpg
 
270winchester,
I´ve tried three madmax without success.
Then I´ve used a GD500 driver. Works nice (1,8 - 5 V), but not with eneloops (see post #1).
Still looking for a 0,8-5V driver (without SOS and strobe).
Any tip?
 
270winchester,
I´ve tried three madmax without success.
Then I´ve used a GD500 driver. Works nice (1,8 - 5 V), but not with eneloops (see post #1).
Still looking for a 0,8-5V driver (without SOS and strobe).
Any tip?

what if you take whatever driver the Fenix L1T uses and put it in there? it would work well with 1.5v batteries.

I remember that a few years back people were making 1-AA sized Lux-I lights that ran fairly well on an alkaline so I know it can be done. If you find a AA-specific driver, you can drive it at .5amp an still get fairly decent brightness.

very nice job BTW :thumbsup:
 
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270winchester,
good tip, thanks.
I have some spare L1/2T heads from the fenix shop.
The fenix driver is 17,2 mm * 4,9 mm (GD500 13,8 * 3,7 mm)
and may fit in the SF L1 head.
If I can´t find another driver, I´ll give it a try.
 
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