-
You must be a Supporting Member to participate in the Candle Power Forums Marketplace.
You can become a Supporting Member.
Show your rare/unusual/modded PEAKs
- Thread starter RAGE CAGE
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
JeffN
Enlightened
Awaiting yours... 
Awaiting yours...
Touche'
I will try to post better pic tonight.
Left to Right-
2nd- Only Brass LUG body 5 LED Killimanjaro I have ever seen.
4th- Bare Aluminum single RED LED matterhorn KC-also only one I have ever seen.
Bare Aluminum sandwiched between Brass and SS matterhorns- note the knurled head.
Last edited:
Gatsby
Enlightened
Nothing too unusual - I have a natural grey McKinley that looks like it was perhaps a prototype initially - different head than the later hex heads (basically a knurled Arc style head) - stainless key ring lug and no "through the body" screw... The fit of the head to the body is a bit loose by current standards - there is consequently a bit of flicker, but I really like the dull olive grey HAIII, I wish they'd made more lights in natural rather than black HA. I keep pondering getting a stainless Caribbean and using that head on the Natural body (since IIRC all the CR123 lights, Atlantic, Med, Carib, Glacier and McKinley bodies are interchangeable).
The LEDS are very low powered and not terribly well matched when you look at them head on ... two are a bit yellowish, but the beam itself is decent and due to the low output it runs forever ... a real vampire. I'll have to take a picture.
I sure wish Blindasabat would post some pictures of his two stage lights!
The LEDS are very low powered and not terribly well matched when you look at them head on ... two are a bit yellowish, but the beam itself is decent and due to the low output it runs forever ... a real vampire. I'll have to take a picture.
I sure wish Blindasabat would post some pictures of his two stage lights!
saabgoblin
Enlightened
I managed to grab a 5 Led Kilimanjaro recessed head in a brass AA Lug body. I'll see if I can get some pics posted in the near future.
MWClint
Enlightened
A few of my Peak mods.
Here's my first Peak, which happens to be my most used and favorite light
of my collection.
Started off as a Brass Pacific SP Seoul.
HA Keychain body
Brass Momentary
Swapped in a T1SS0I High CRI Seoul.(has had U2SW0H and S2STOH prior)
McR-16s reflector
sandwich shoppe MadMax+ Converter board (AA boost and li-ion DD)
2 mode Resistor modified tailswitch (Twist head for high, press momentary for low)
Lanyard hole in switch
Sapphire glass lens
custom copper heatsink
lube - aluminum anti seize, prevent galling and give long life between brass and alum threads...(petroleum base hasnt affected the oring i'm using on the head)
My Primary EDC
good shot of McR-16s, sapphire glass and High Cri seoul, such a beautiful beam.
MadMax+ shoehorned in, plasticy insulating tape to cover board.
lemme tell you, this was not easy to do by hand dremeling.
Lanyard hole in switch, doesnt affect operation.
Momentary Switch with resistor plug in end.
Brass Cap cut to fit over foam disk at base of body.
overall height of brass cap, must be slightly less than foam.
Brass cap in place over foam at base of body
2-mode explanation:
When you press the momentary, it pushes the resistor up into the brass
cap, making the connection to the battery,through the resistor.
Depending on value of resistor you can fine tune your low mode.
Mines set to about 2 lumens low.
When you twist the head, the battery pushes down on the brass cap, compressing
the foam and making a direct connection to the base of the body tube, bypassing the
resistor which brings on high mode.
The MadMax+ will draw as much as the battery will allow, single nimh cell
seems to be about 400mah to led. seeing 1.28amps at tail.
Li-ion is direct driving the T1SS0I bin seoul to around 1.15amps,
a custom copper heatsink is taking up plenty of space in the head.
had a lot of extra room using that short 16mm reflector.
Quad Die Rainiers:
Left: DSVNI P7, Led-il-M boom reflector, custom copper heatsink, 10%(250mah), 50%(1.25amp), 100%(2.5amp) 3 mode driver from shinningbeam.
IMR yeilds almost full power, ICR yeilds 170mah, 1.1amp, 1.57amp.. The light can last all 3 minutes on high with IMR, it gets hot, but no overheating issues.
you could edc it with a standard AW RCR123. Tint on DSVNI is pretty warm+incan like! Great P7 bin.
Middle: Direct Drive Cree MC-E w/stippled Khatod. 3.5amps on IMR!
usable + long lasting 270mah on primary CR123a..
Right: DSW0I P7, Led-il-S boom reflector, custom copper heatsink, modded 2amp programmable bi-flupic board, low, med, high,strobe, memory..etc. IMR=2amp high, 500mah med, 150mah low.
I do EDC this light. restricting to med and low allows for long runtimes. it is awesome.
K2 TFFC 200 TV0D -> Night Patrol
pushing 2.14 amps..it's crazy bright and an extremely potent thrower with the optic.
18650 body, full 2+amps
2xAA body gives about 15-20 lumens..great long life general purpose light in this setup
3xAA body, full 2+amps
i also use this 3xAA body on the FR1000A when the 18650's arent charged..provides adjustability up to half power...normally a 2x18650 light.
my other modded peaks, have combinations of led swaps, 2 mode, mcr-16s, ucl lens...etc
Here's my first Peak, which happens to be my most used and favorite light
of my collection.
Started off as a Brass Pacific SP Seoul.
HA Keychain body
Brass Momentary
Swapped in a T1SS0I High CRI Seoul.(has had U2SW0H and S2STOH prior)
McR-16s reflector
sandwich shoppe MadMax+ Converter board (AA boost and li-ion DD)
2 mode Resistor modified tailswitch (Twist head for high, press momentary for low)
Lanyard hole in switch
Sapphire glass lens
custom copper heatsink
lube - aluminum anti seize, prevent galling and give long life between brass and alum threads...(petroleum base hasnt affected the oring i'm using on the head)
My Primary EDC
good shot of McR-16s, sapphire glass and High Cri seoul, such a beautiful beam.
MadMax+ shoehorned in, plasticy insulating tape to cover board.
lemme tell you, this was not easy to do by hand dremeling.
Lanyard hole in switch, doesnt affect operation.
Momentary Switch with resistor plug in end.
Brass Cap cut to fit over foam disk at base of body.
overall height of brass cap, must be slightly less than foam.
Brass cap in place over foam at base of body
2-mode explanation:
When you press the momentary, it pushes the resistor up into the brass
cap, making the connection to the battery,through the resistor.
Depending on value of resistor you can fine tune your low mode.
Mines set to about 2 lumens low.
When you twist the head, the battery pushes down on the brass cap, compressing
the foam and making a direct connection to the base of the body tube, bypassing the
resistor which brings on high mode.
The MadMax+ will draw as much as the battery will allow, single nimh cell
seems to be about 400mah to led. seeing 1.28amps at tail.
Li-ion is direct driving the T1SS0I bin seoul to around 1.15amps,
a custom copper heatsink is taking up plenty of space in the head.
had a lot of extra room using that short 16mm reflector.
Quad Die Rainiers:
Left: DSVNI P7, Led-il-M boom reflector, custom copper heatsink, 10%(250mah), 50%(1.25amp), 100%(2.5amp) 3 mode driver from shinningbeam.
IMR yeilds almost full power, ICR yeilds 170mah, 1.1amp, 1.57amp.. The light can last all 3 minutes on high with IMR, it gets hot, but no overheating issues.
you could edc it with a standard AW RCR123. Tint on DSVNI is pretty warm+incan like! Great P7 bin.
Middle: Direct Drive Cree MC-E w/stippled Khatod. 3.5amps on IMR!
usable + long lasting 270mah on primary CR123a..
Right: DSW0I P7, Led-il-S boom reflector, custom copper heatsink, modded 2amp programmable bi-flupic board, low, med, high,strobe, memory..etc. IMR=2amp high, 500mah med, 150mah low.
I do EDC this light. restricting to med and low allows for long runtimes. it is awesome.
K2 TFFC 200 TV0D -> Night Patrol
pushing 2.14 amps..it's crazy bright and an extremely potent thrower with the optic.
18650 body, full 2+amps
2xAA body gives about 15-20 lumens..great long life general purpose light in this setup
3xAA body, full 2+amps
i also use this 3xAA body on the FR1000A when the 18650's arent charged..provides adjustability up to half power...normally a 2x18650 light.
my other modded peaks, have combinations of led swaps, 2 mode, mcr-16s, ucl lens...etc
Last edited:
Dances with Flashlight
Flashlight Enthusiast
OMG! These are works of art!
My only Peak, Brass 3 led N Cell Shasta Key-ring style.
Mod is a Chop Job, which reduced the length by about 0.5", drilled holes so, it'll still allow key-ring carry.
Removed the Lug knob. This conversion now also allows tail stand.
Mod is a Chop Job, which reduced the length by about 0.5", drilled holes so, it'll still allow key-ring carry.
Removed the Lug knob. This conversion now also allows tail stand.
Last edited:
gunga
Flashaholic
Amzing JOb MWclint.
I didn't know the Madmax_+ could be used with Li-on. I thought it would blow in that setup.
Also, I didn't realize you could get 400 mA out of the same driver with 1 cell!
Nice.
I didn't know the Madmax_+ could be used with Li-on. I thought it would blow in that setup.
Also, I didn't realize you could get 400 mA out of the same driver with 1 cell!
Nice.
A few of my Peak mods.
Here's my first Peak, which happens to be my most used and favorite light
of my collection.
Started off as a Brass Pacific SP Seoul.
HA Keychain body
Brass Momentary
Swapped in a T1SS0I High CRI Seoul.(has had U2SW0H and S2STOH prior)
McR-16s reflector
sandwich shoppe MadMax+ Converter board (AA boost and li-ion DD)
2 mode Resistor modified tailswitch (Twist head for high, press momentary for low)
Lanyard hole in switch
Sapphire glass lens
custom copper heatsink
lube - aluminum anti seize, prevent galling and give long life between brass and alum threads...(petroleum base hasnt affected the oring i'm using on the head)
My Primary EDC
good shot of McR-16s, sapphire glass and High Cri seoul, such a beautiful beam.
MadMax+ shoehorned in, plasticy insulating tape to cover board.
lemme tell you, this was not easy to do by hand dremeling.
Lanyard hole in switch, doesnt affect operation.
Momentary Switch with resistor plug in end.
Brass Cap cut to fit over foam disk at base of body.
overall height of brass cap, must be slightly less than foam.
Brass cap in place over foam at base of body
2-mode explanation:
When you press the momentary, it pushes the resistor up into the brass
cap, making the connection to the battery,through the resistor.
Depending on value of resistor you can fine tune your low mode.
Mines set to about 2 lumens low.
When you twist the head, the battery pushes down on the brass cap, compressing
the foam and making a direct connection to the base of the body tube, bypassing the
resistor which brings on high mode.
The MadMax+ will draw as much as the battery will allow, single nimh cell
seems to be about 400mah to led. seeing 1.28amps at tail.
Li-ion is direct driving the T1SS0I bin seoul to around 1.15amps,
a custom copper heatsink is taking up plenty of space in the head.
had a lot of extra room using that short 16mm reflector.
Quad Die Rainiers:
Left: DSVNI P7, Led-il-M boom reflector, custom copper heatsink, 10%(250mah), 50%(1.25amp), 100%(2.5amp) 3 mode driver from shinningbeam.
IMR yeilds almost full power, ICR yeilds 170mah, 1.1amp, 1.57amp.. The light can last all 3 minutes on high with IMR, it gets hot, but no overheating issues.
you could edc it with a standard AW RCR123. Tint on DSVNI is pretty warm+incan like! Great P7 bin.
Middle: Direct Drive Cree MC-E w/stippled Khatod. 3.5amps on IMR!
usable + long lasting 270mah on primary CR123a..
Right: DSW0I P7, Led-il-S boom reflector, custom copper heatsink, modded 2amp programmable bi-flupic board, low, med, high,strobe, memory..etc. IMR=2amp high, 500mah med, 150mah low.
I do EDC this light. restricting to med and low allows for long runtimes. it is awesome.
K2 TFFC 200 TV0D -> Night Patrol
pushing 2.14 amps..it's crazy bright and an extremely potent thrower with the optic.
18650 body, full 2+amps
2xAA body gives about 15-20 lumens..great long life general purpose light in this setup
3xAA body, full 2+amps
i also use this 3xAA body on the FR1000A when the 18650's arent charged..provides adjustability up to half power...normally a 2x18650 light.
my other modded peaks, have combinations of led swaps, 2 mode, mcr-16s, ucl lens...etc
speechless.......
