SIMPLE WAY TO PREVENT CHIPPING-OFF OF YOUR FLASH LIGHT'S ANODIZED COATING

wizardlabz

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Jan 1, 2016
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Hello all, this is my first ever post on CPF, though i have been with CPF for some years now. and i have seen lot of problems and solutions here.

one of the major problems i have seen is the chipping-off of the anodized coating / or the custom paint job on flash lights , there by making it ugly. though stainless steel and other hard metal bodied flash lights are less vulnerable to this, they are not so common as aluminium bodied ones.

Recently i bought a fenix E-05 2014 edition key chain flash light and hooked it up with my keys. within few days, the keys began to chip off the anodized coating of my lovely lil flash light. so i was searching for some solution. And one day, i found few Heat shrinking tubes ( its a kind of rubber tube used in electrical/ electronics field to isolate contacts and wire joints from shorting out or simply for putting as some protection on components ), so i got this idea. and i would like to share it with you.


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Here is my E-05, you can clearly see that its tail cap is chipped-off by stupid keys , but luckily there is less damage on its body since i found this and removed it from key ring.


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This is the heat shrink tube that i have, and its as the same size of the flash light, though it is lil tight when it is inserted into the body of the flash light. but its OK, lil pressure and effort will make the thing. All you need is find the right size of heat shrink tube from your local electronics shop, as they come in various sizes. I saw some which are big enough to fit d size mags. and they are pretty cheep too.

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Now you need to push your flash light tube(s) into the heat shrink tube, and cut out it accordingly. but make sure that you leave lil extra on ends as the tube will shrink down lil bit when we apply heat, it also ensures extra protection on corners in case of accidental drops. Also make sure that you remove the "O rings" and battery before you apply heat.

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Now you need to apply heat on the tube. You can use zippos,lighters, hair dryers, or even flame from stove ( i used a lighter with torch like pointy flame) . Don't use cheep plastic lighters as u need to operate it for some time and it will cause possible melting or even exploding lighter.
Now apply heat from one end to another end uniformly, don't apply too much heat, as it can damage and burn the rubber tube. You can see it shrinking down. Also take care not to burn your plastic lens while applying heat.

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when it is done apply some extra heat on edges, and bend the ends of the heat shrink tube with your fingers. It will help the tube to cover the corners as shown in the above picture.

You can use some Petrol or Thinner or Nail polish remover soaked cotton /tissue paper to erase the prints on the tube. But make sure that these chemicals wont touch your plastic lens as it can fog out the lens.

When its all set your flash light is ready to take some nasty handling.

Though your lovely flash light does look less beautiful than the original body, it still looks lovely and neat. ( may be like a lovely curvy women in a spandex:kiss: , just because , though it covers the body, it still show of the curves:sssh:).

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Benefits of this mod are :-

1) protects and keeps your flash light beautiful for long.
2) adds some extra shock proof with out making it bulky or heavy.
3) adds some extra grip especially on glass and other slippery surfaces.
4) adds some extra chemical , dirt , scratch , drop or even water ( yes , if you use the heat shrink tube wisely along with a layer of glue stick/ rubber adhesive in between the aluminium body and heat shrink tube , it will stop water ingress ) to the flash light.


This tube can survive a lot of wear and tear and hence you don't have to change it for long. but when ever you want to remove it, just cut open an end and tear it out. It will not leave any residue or anything on the body of your flash light ( will be clean as changing the cover of a book).

There is a draw back to this mod, the tube have a tendency to loosen up after one or two months of usage (as it is rubber). but still it have solution, just apply heat and it will shrink back again. Also if u have a high power flash light with so much heat dissipating fins, don't cover the fins with the heat shrink tube as it will block out ventilation.

Thank you all flash light lovers, i hope this will solve one of your worst nightmares.
 

ACruceSalus

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That's interesting. Thanks for taking the time to share with us. I can't tell from your last picture whether the tail cap is protected. That's where I chipped one of my flashlights. Also does the tubing give you a better grip?
 

wizardlabz

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Jan 1, 2016
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That's interesting. Thanks for taking the time to share with us. I can't tell from your last picture whether the tail cap is protected. That's where I chipped one of my flashlights. Also does the tubing give you a better grip?

YES. The material is rubber ( or something rubber based) so it offers good grip, actually if the hand gets wet, it is more gripper.
 

Str8stroke

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Nice first post.
More info is look to buy lights that are HAIII and not HAII. The HAIII will have superior staying power. Of course they will wear in time too. I have used everything from heat shrink, bike tubes, O-rings, and tape.

I was surprised you didn't mention the one great thing about wrapping a light like you did. You can then use them much more safely with the Mouth Hold technique.

Welcome to CPF. Thanks for such a great intro post.
 

Str8stroke

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He mentioned that above. It will some due to the heat transfer to the body of the light then to your hand. I wouldn't do it to one of my flame throwers. I would also be aware of it. But your hand is a effective cooler. As long as you can handle the heat! I have some lights that on High you can't hold them anywhere after a minute or so. lol They would shrink the heat shrink!
 

ven

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It's a good idea and nice 1st post . On low output lights it would be fine, higher then of course risks due to heat being more confined as mentioned. Having various HAIII ano lights, most seem to suffer and imho not HAIII , just a sale gimmick in many cases as they chip mark way too easy, and I don't mean just cheap lights either. Of course some will be that grade.....

My solution is stainless steel, the eo5 ss looked like new after months on a key ring, my works TiS is still like new after many months(maybe a year now) of living with many keys and being forced in/out of pockets.......very regular ,each day,every day mon to fri! Black ano lights do look scruffy in days ,never mind weeks on my work keys. The lumintop tool looked like it had been ano stripped in a month :laughing: ....not in a cool looking way!

Wonder if 18650 wraps would work....pick your color or go see through!

:welcome:
 

Borad

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May 27, 2011
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Maybe try a contrasting color and punch two or three rows of holes in it before shrinking it. Then you'll have some more heat dissipation and it may look even better than the original. I think gray, orange, and yellow would be good colors for a black light.
 

DIWdiver

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It's a good idea and nice 1st post . On low output lights it would be fine, higher then of course risks due to heat being more confined as mentioned. Having various HAIII ano lights, most seem to suffer and imho not HAIII , just a sale gimmick in many cases as they chip mark way too easy, and I don't mean just cheap lights either. Of course some will be that grade.....

My solution is stainless steel, the eo5 ss looked like new after months on a key ring, my works TiS is still like new after many months(maybe a year now) of living with many keys and being forced in/out of pockets.......very regular ,each day,every day mon to fri! Black ano lights do look scruffy in days ,never mind weeks on my work keys. The lumintop tool looked like it had been ano stripped in a month :laughing: ....not in a cool looking way!

Wonder if 18650 wraps would work....pick your color or go see through!

:welcome:

Yes, many inexpensive lights claim HAIII. It's almost always a bald-faced lie. My guess is that once someone started doing it, everyone else decided they had to tell the same lie, just to keep up. Unfortunately, now the manufacturers that actually do it have a hard time standing out.

The easiest way to tell is if the light is cheap, or black, or a pretty color, or glossy, it's not HAIII. HAIII is an expensive process, does not produce a glossy finish (it's usually semi-flat to satin), and does not allow for pretty colors. IIRC, black is possible but difficult.
 

ven

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Yes, many inexpensive lights claim HAIII. It's almost always a bald-faced lie. My guess is that once someone started doing it, everyone else decided they had to tell the same lie, just to keep up. Unfortunately, now the manufacturers that actually do it have a hard time standing out.

The easiest way to tell is if the light is cheap, or black, or a pretty color, or glossy, it's not HAIII. HAIII is an expensive process, does not produce a glossy finish (it's usually semi-flat to satin), and does not allow for pretty colors. IIRC, black is possible but difficult.


Hi DIWdiver, thats very interesting info regarding the colours and finishes, thanks!
Probably the best ano/finish i have is on the older armytek pred/vik v2.5's ,which seems very tough!! and flat/matte .
 

jorn

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I just strip off all the ano with some caustic soda if a light starts to look too bad. And then a quick rub with armour all. looks great :)
 

jorn

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No. I always test my lights for waterproofness. So i just dunk it in lye / caustic soda mixed with water. And scrub a little with a toothbrush. Nothing will leak past the o-rings. So i still got lock out functions etc. But i protect myself with safety glasses and gloves. 5 min and all the ano is gone. 10 min with rubbing (armour all) and its almost crome like shine :)
 

magellan

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No. I always test my lights for waterproofness. So i just dunk it in lye / caustic soda mixed with water. And scrub a little with a toothbrush. Nothing will leak past the o-rings. So i still got lock out functions etc. But i protect myself with safety glasses and gloves. 5 min and all the ano is gone. 10 min with rubbing (armour all) and its almost crome like shine :)

Very interesting. Not sure I'll ever try that, but I'll remember that in the future.
 

Fireclaw18

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Mar 16, 2011
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Doesn't this interfere with heat dissipation?

It would. But the Fenix E05 is such a low-output, low-current light I don't think heat will be an issue even with the shrink wrap on.

I have a few modded lights where I needed to paint over external parts to match existing anodizing. I used regular acrylic hobby paint, blended to match. To give it enough durability for flashlight use, I applied a layer of brush-on super-glue on top. This actually works quite well.

The super-glue is quite insulating. I have one very high-powered modded compact light that was getting too hot to touch at the switch housing where the thumb rests. To allow the light to be run at higher power longer I applied a layer of superglue on top of the metal switch button and surrounding housing. I figured the inside of the light could stand the high heat much longer than my thumb could. It worked great.

The light in question is a modded DQG 18650 Tiny III clicky with added external heatsink / hand protector at the head (87mm long x 24mm wide at the body and 29mm wide at the head). Emitter setup is triple XPL HI, with FET driver. 3100 lumens at 9 amps on a fresh cell.
 
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