smaller than a solarforce l2m ;)

spydee

Newly Enlightened
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Feb 2, 2009
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while playing around with my solarforce l2 i realized you can unscrew the head from the body, and i don't mean like when you are changing the dropin... so i decided to try to crew the clicky directly to the head, that worked, but there wasn't enough room for a battery and the droping, so i unsoldered the small spring from the dropin and soldered that one in the clicky... so i had no spring in the dropin now and a much smaller spring in the clicky... but it was still too big, then i remembered that i once made a dropin with an optic instead of the reflector, but that dropin was too small for the 6p... but it workes perfectly in this light :)

anyway, i thought you guys might like it :)

here are some pictures of the "mod"

l2m vs my mod and the normal 18650 battery tube


the parts


again


a beamshot
 
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I think you may have the shortest 3P parts ever...:twothumbs


I got mine to 3in in total lengh exact. How long is yours?

Also, did you just screw in the tail cap straight to the body housing that holds the P60 drop-in?

I have to try this now...In tha past I recall the threads of the clikie wouldn't reach the housing body of the P60. Is this what you see?
 
That is really cool! Got any bigger pictures than the ones at photobucket?
 
Excellent Mod! I wonder how many button cells you could cram in there with a stock P60 drop in?

I think I will have to go and take apart all my car remotes......:duh2:
 
I just tried a 123 extension shame the threads don't reach it is perfect size for an 18500.
Norm
 
That's a nice mod. I tried to separate the body parts of my Solarforce lights but was not successful (I did not try any tools). I think usually they are glued together.
 
Excellent tip :clap: After i read this, i ran straight for my l2m, but couldn't unscrew it.. but my l2 body was easy to unscrew, so i used that one instead. My dx mc-e drop-in was slightly to big, so i put a o-ring in the gap, and now its perfectlovecpf
Picture%20041.jpg
 
If you cut off some of the unthreaded part of the extension (I did it with a pipe cutter:eek:oo:), it will screw on tight. The threads seem to be the same count (TPI) but the diameter of the extension is a little larger than the threads on the head. Once it is tightened up though, it is solid. I have been running like this for a while and it would fit an 18500 perfectly if your extension is sized for the 18mm cell (some of the early ones only fit 16-17mm cells). It also fits a single AA nicely. Or even a CR123 with a longer tail spring.

Robert



I just tried a 123 extension shame the threads don't reach it is perfect size for an 18500.
Norm
 
not sure if all heads detach like that, was my first one where it just kind of "came off" without much effort, havn't tryed any other l2...

it's about 8.1 cm or (i think) 3.2 inches, so yours is still smaller :)

and it only screws on for about 1 and a half full turn... the threads from the clicky just about reach the threads on the head...

bigger pics (click for bigger version)




 
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not sure if all heads detach like that, was my first one where it just kind of "came off" without much effort, havn't tryed any other l2...

it's about 8.1 cm or (i think) 3.2 inches, so yours is still smaller :)

and it only screws on for about 1 and a half full turn... the threads from the clicky just about reach the threads on the head...

bigger pics (click for bigger version)



Pretty cool. I will go home and try it again, I bet I can make it shorter still. I found that if you grind a G2 plastic bezel it screws in all the way down when you use a LU60 type ( which this L2m certainly is).
Here is my 3in P60 drop-in Surefire Lego.
P3030074-1.jpg


Here it has a Malkoff P7 P60 drop-in w/IMR 16340!!!!!!!!!!!
P3030081.jpg


Here the middle light is 3.25in and the far right is 3.5in, yet they are both shorter than my real Surefire 3P. The middle light has the G2 bezel grinded down and where the tail cap screws into the A21 housing body has also been trimmed to fit flush.
P2200049.jpg
 
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Thanks, spydee. This is a great idea! I've got mine down to 3 1/16" using an optic, RCR123, and cut down spring in the tail cap. Also removed some length at the front of the tail cap so that more threads would engage with the "body," if you can call such a stubby thing a body. :grin2:

You don't often hear bragging like, "Mine is shorter than yours." :eek:
 
Great tip spydee, thanks for sharing! :thumbsup:

Excellent tip :clap: After i read this, i ran straight for my l2m, but couldn't unscrew it...
Yeah, I tried that as well with my L2m but it appears it's one-piece and doesn't have that extra connection point that is on the L2.

I have been trying to get my P7 drop-in in the smallest package - which, so far, as been an L2m host - but this is quite a bit smaller so I guess that means I'll have pick up an L2. Oh darn, I guess I'll have to purchase another light... :eek::crackup:
 
Nice setup,
but to small for my paw...

Here is mine:
L2 with CR123 extender cut down to 48mm, powered by 1xLIR18500

l2-18500d9ea.jpg

Stock L2/L2 with CR123 extender, instead of body
 

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