Solarforce R5 drop in
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Luminater
Newly Enlightened
Mine draw about 600 - 700 mA = about 2+ hours (CR123A 1500 mA)
qwertyydude
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Yes this on two cells seems to draw only about 600 ma so it should last 2 hours or so. This doesn't seem to push the xp-g to it's full capacity. On one cell it draws about 750 ma so the led is probably driven right around there. So led life and battery life seem to be the priority instead of maximum lumens.
Tiresius
Enlightened
The XP-G R5 is a great drop-in. It's a nice combination of flood and throw. But don't expect it to be a thrower because the emitter is wider as opposed to the XR-E. I've had mines run 1hr 50min on surefire primaries.
Solarforce's SMO XP-G is quite nice considering that most SMO reflectors have tons of artifacts. The only flaw in the setup is a slightly dimmer center in the hotspot but it doesn't bother me as much.
Oh, anyone tried this before? Take the XP-G pill and put it on a XP-E R2 OP reflector? The drop-in is almost like a flood. Will put some beam shots of it tonight.
Solarforce's SMO XP-G is quite nice considering that most SMO reflectors have tons of artifacts. The only flaw in the setup is a slightly dimmer center in the hotspot but it doesn't bother me as much.
Oh, anyone tried this before? Take the XP-G pill and put it on a XP-E R2 OP reflector? The drop-in is almost like a flood. Will put some beam shots of it tonight.
pounder
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anyone know how hard it would be to replace the driver of th xp-g to an 1.5 amp like thrunites? would take soldering skills (which I have) but any threads that could be linked for a tutorial on modifying these p60 modules would be appreciated..
i've got an xp-g solarforce on the way..
i've got an xp-g solarforce on the way..
qwertyydude
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It's pretty simply to change out the pill but you need to be careful and use the right tools. Mainly you need not only a hot soldering iron but one with a lot of thermal mass like a wide chisel tip to overcome the pill's tendency to suck up the heat. Secondly you need a desoldering tool, commonly known as a solder sucker. Use the hot iron to melt the solder connections to the pill and suck out the solder. Then you'll be able to pull the board or gently pry it out, then desolder the wires from the board and it's simply a matter of replacing the board keeping track of the polarity and which wires go where on the new board. Then simply apply new solder connections to the outer ground of the board and the pill. If you have a spare or junk reflector I suggest putting the pill in that to protect the good reflector and led from possible damage from and accident or slip.
On a rare occasion you might find the wires to short to pull the board out. This makes things more difficult because you have to desolder the wires from the led first.
On a rare occasion you might find the wires to short to pull the board out. This makes things more difficult because you have to desolder the wires from the led first.
I got the drop in today. Thank you Lighthound.
I have to say, for the money, this is an excellent led. I placed it in my Solarforce L2P and it is perfect. If I can get over 2 hours run time, I will really be happy. I guess I'll have to give it a test when i get the time.
I also picked up a yellow sleave for my TK20. You guys are starting to cost me money.
Thanks for everyones help
I have to say, for the money, this is an excellent led. I placed it in my Solarforce L2P and it is perfect. If I can get over 2 hours run time, I will really be happy. I guess I'll have to give it a test when i get the time.
I also picked up a yellow sleave for my TK20. You guys are starting to cost me money.
Thanks for everyones help
yangdong1112
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:twothumbs
pounder
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nice man..thanks for the help..pretty much how I figured it was done..maybe the drop-in will be sufficient..time will tell..then I may track down the new driver..
flashnight
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Does anyone know if the Solarforce XPG drop in comes in a 3 mode(high,med.,low) Version? I know they have a 5 mode but don't care for the strobes. Thanks
recDNA
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I don't think so but the Dereelight does...hint, hint, hint
alpg88
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i used r5 plenty of times, very good drop in, i used them in not p60 aluminium body, so i removed the driver (no special tools needed), pry it while heating up the solder, driver pops out easy, than i added some metal to the heat sink, relocated driver, or replaced it, and that is it.
mine came with 1400ma (approximately) on high.
mine came with 1400ma (approximately) on high.
shipwreck
Enlightened
There seems to be a lot of variance between specimens of this drop in.
My first one came with an L2P solarforce. The drop in puts out an awesome hotspot, with no rings and a perfect circle. The entire hotspot is uniform in brightness.
I got a 2nd L2P with R5 today. The hotspot is sort of blobular, and it has rings.
My first one came with an L2P solarforce. The drop in puts out an awesome hotspot, with no rings and a perfect circle. The entire hotspot is uniform in brightness.
I got a 2nd L2P with R5 today. The hotspot is sort of blobular, and it has rings.
shipwreck
Enlightened
I went outside to check the new L2P with the R5.
In distance, it puts out about the same as my first L2P with the R5.
What is strange is that the first R5 I have - it puts out a perfect white wall hotspot does have a slight donut hole when ya shine it at a distance - VERY common for smooth reflectors and the R5 emitter in a lot of brands.
However, while the new one shows more of a blob instead of a perfect circle on the white wall - it does not have a donut hole when shined at a distance.
Anyway - I like the anodizing better on the first one. I'll probably throw this new one into my carry rotation, since I typically carry a light.
In distance, it puts out about the same as my first L2P with the R5.
What is strange is that the first R5 I have - it puts out a perfect white wall hotspot does have a slight donut hole when ya shine it at a distance - VERY common for smooth reflectors and the R5 emitter in a lot of brands.
However, while the new one shows more of a blob instead of a perfect circle on the white wall - it does not have a donut hole when shined at a distance.
Anyway - I like the anodizing better on the first one. I'll probably throw this new one into my carry rotation, since I typically carry a light.
shipwreck
Enlightened
I had ordered another loose R5. This one is fine.
Does anyone know how to fit the Solarforce Cree XPG r5 drop-in properly in a sure fire 9p?
http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=29&id=212
The drop in module seems too long for the 9p bezel to screw in completely. when i remove the spring, it fits well but seems not to have proper connection with the light turns on only 50% of the time (and turns on an off when shaking the light).
Any advice? Thanks.
http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=29&id=212
The drop in module seems too long for the 9p bezel to screw in completely. when i remove the spring, it fits well but seems not to have proper connection with the light turns on only 50% of the time (and turns on an off when shaking the light).
Any advice? Thanks.
RI Chevy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yes it does. Information taken from the Solarforce website:
Easy to operate ~ Runtime KING BULB, Maximum Runtime 30 HOURS, more than a DAY!!!!
The flashlight bulb function may able to safe your life and make you survive during emergency situation
3 mode R5 XP-G Cree led bulb
- Provide 320 Lumens Max output
- Reflector aluminum reflector (Smooth reflector)
- Solarforce R&D driver circuit to protect Li-ion battery from over-discharging
- No. of mode available : 3 Mode
100% 40% 10%
Very user friend, just click on/off once to change mode
With Memory IC (turn off for 3 second will memorize the last mode, When you turn on again, it will be on that memorized mode)
- Working Voltage : 0.8V to 4.2v, under the circuit
- Battery configuration :
18650 3.7v x 1pc
CR123A 3.0v or 3.7v x 1 pc
- Runtime :
18650 3.7v
~ 100% brightness – 3.5 hours
~ 40% brightness – 10 hours
~ 10% brightness – 35 hours
CR123A 3.0v or 3.7v
~ 100% brightness – 1.5 hours
~ 40% brightness – 4 hours
~ 10% brightness – 15 hours
- Compatible for : Solarforce L2 L2M L2x L2P L2i L2r (fit for all L2 Series)
brandocommando
Enlightened
You need to wrap the drop-in with something conductive so it is able to make the negative contact to the flashlight body, thus completing the circuit. I use copper tape, but others had had success with strips of aluminum cut from a pop can, plain old tin foil will work also.
It should look like this when you are done, and it should fit nice and snug in the 9P. This also helps with heat transfer.
Just make sure it is done neatly, and does not come into contact with the positive contact of the drop-in, (small spring in the center.) Or the positive terminal of the battery...
That would be bad....
HERE is a link to some of the copper tape.
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