VidPro
Flashlight Enthusiast
A One of a Kind <--- (gee looks like marketing was here )
True RGB Mag Mod Light
^ huge 2.6meg gif animation with a person adjusting the light.
If you are a flashlight collector, here is your chance to own a true RGB Mag Mod Light. You can own a flashlight created to give you actual control of the color light functions like no other light. This flashlight was designed to combine separate RGB LEDs into a first of its kind.
This light features:
12 Watt total power using 4x3 watt 6 wire Pro-Light LEDs
multiple Red, Green, and Blue LEDs
Separate Red, Green, and Blue Controls
There are 7 settings per color for intensity giving 296 possible colors
Optics are set for a ~25 degree beam.
Special copper heat sink for heat dissipation
Special 6 wire circuitry
A Red Mag Light Body which comes with whatever combination of batteries you desire , Longest Run time with lithium D batteries
Main switch turns on and off all 3 colors. The 3 tiny switches adjust each separate color. When turned off at main switch the turned back on the flashlight returns to last settings.
the main switch disconnects all power, so there is no draw on the batteries when disconnected this way, this also prevents accidental turn on.
Each color set of LEDs has 7 settings or steps for control of the amount of light per color.
I need to sell this RGB mag mod flashlight, it was done as a "proof of concept" to attempt to prove that i could get White light from multiples of rotated 3W RGB Emitters.
It will only be sold and shipped in the US, because i live in the US and will be selling it and shipping it in this country.
it Comes with NO warrenty:
as it is very specialised, will break if dropped hard, can be messed up by the user many different ways.
It can be dissasembled, so the user could also ruin it that way.
It is not fully water resistant, it Can get wet and operate, but if it does it will cause oxidation issues with the 3 small switches.
There is only 1:
there only ever WILL be one from me, if somone wanted to make them, that has nothing to do with me, this could be a "prototype" if it had not already been completly re-worked from its first revision. for no price will I make another one of the EXACT same design.
it took me 2 years:
to get around to working on it a bit here and there, the 600$ really only covers all the parts and pieces, and purchaces made to "perfect" it, although it is far from perfect. so it is, what it is , and is sold AS-IS, any repairs/returns made to it would cost more.
It will run on about every battery type imaginable, 2 D sized Li-Ion, 8 Alkalines, 8 Ni-mhys, or 8 Lithium primary AAs using the adpter. special care is needed to use the Li-Ions.
its built into a RED mag case, cause i like the Red , dark blue, and purple colors of the mags. and this one was on sale
this close up shows the controls, and the slight aberations on the head, any time you get right down and look at the head you see the little scratches, if you dont look, it looks pretty new. but it sure isnt MINT, after being to the machine shop and all.
it was built like this:
first the switch was removed, then the top was bandsawed off, wires are connected to go to the curcuits.
three holes were meticulously placed above the switch, where they could be easily reached with the same digits used to operate the main switch. well close enough anyways
3 tiny momentary switches are cut so the connections dont collide, then soldered to light computer data wires, covered with heat shrink and then working in the tight space, wedging them into the holes.
the machine shop then custom cut a Huge barrel of copper, into this High Wall, copper heat sink. i abraded the base to insure the thermal epoxy would adhere.
the heat sinc had to be able to Rotate, yet had to be VERY tight specification, so it would make good contact with as much of the flashlight as possible. the specs they used are within 1/1000 of an inch, but depending on the OPTICS or reflector used, the height can be off by as much as 1mm.
a hole is drilled, offset from the center, on purpose of course
so the wires could be routed from the head to the electronics.
the head of the mag was honed out to perfectally match the heat sink, basically only the annodising is removed, not much has really changed.
4 prolite 6 wire emitters are aligned ROTATED 1/4, you can see how the Red gates are rotated 90* around the thing.
each LED emitter is meticulously singlarly epoxied to the copper sink using arctic silver thermal epoxy.
one emitter is not perfectally asemetrical with the others, but they all squeak by being within the specs needed when tested.
this "head" is now wired up, and just imagine for a minute how difficult that would have been and how grusome that would look, 6x4 yup 24 gol darn wires, they culminate into a 6 wire grouping.
so i stripped the wires, got the heat shrink on everything, lined everything up, cleaned and repointed the solder gun, then had a "worker" attempt to connect it all together
it is wired 2x2 2 in series and 2 in parellel, this would be the best configuration for efficiency and for the Task Led N-FLEX boards, and the battery possibilities.
3 of georges most excelent N-Flex boards are used as control, they barely fit semetrically into the mag body.
For extra protection, after the fact, i added a rollup of Vinyl around the boards to insure total isolation from the metal body. as you can see i Left the internal switches on the nflex, there was no reason to remove them, and it made it much easier to test.
a piece of heat shrink in the center, keeps things from moving around down there.
10 micron copper dust is applied after a coating of silicoln (to reduce oxidation of the raw metals)
the copper dust would make the "talc" powder so the sink could rotate, remeber there are 6 wires between the head and the control, so the heat sinc has to hold still while the head is rotated on. the copper "talc" would also work as a filler for heat transfer.
Remember it DOES dissasemble, so it had to be made so it COULD dissasemble so someone could reverse engineer it, without destroying it.
a top unnessiary vinyl cap is put over the control boards, to insure that a connection to them would not occur.
I used and designed and tested the light mostly to work with Li-Ion D cells, but knowing i would have to "let it go" some day, i also insured that it would work with one of these things.
its a 8AA to 2D adapter .
because this is the Older mag, it WILL work with 2500ma Ni-Mhy cells (without boring), but the fit is VERY tight, and one error from the user, and a cells insulation would be ripped off, and could come in contact with the mag body.
it will not work with D sized Ni-mhy, or 3 C ni-mhys or even 4 1/2 sized D ni-cads. so the options are
2x D cell li-ion
8x AA ni-cd or ni-mhy
8x AA Alkalines
8x AA lithium primary
all the 8X stuff that i have tested fit VERY tight, much care is used in inserting it, and a shake is needed to remove it.
if a person used 6X1.2V cells like a 3toD adapter it would NOT be enough voltage without 6 Lithium primary cells.
Ok i suppose you want beamshots? it is not a SPOT light, it will light a whole corner of a room.
True RGB Mag Mod Light

^ huge 2.6meg gif animation with a person adjusting the light.
If you are a flashlight collector, here is your chance to own a true RGB Mag Mod Light. You can own a flashlight created to give you actual control of the color light functions like no other light. This flashlight was designed to combine separate RGB LEDs into a first of its kind.
This light features:
12 Watt total power using 4x3 watt 6 wire Pro-Light LEDs
multiple Red, Green, and Blue LEDs
Separate Red, Green, and Blue Controls
There are 7 settings per color for intensity giving 296 possible colors
Optics are set for a ~25 degree beam.
Special copper heat sink for heat dissipation
Special 6 wire circuitry
A Red Mag Light Body which comes with whatever combination of batteries you desire , Longest Run time with lithium D batteries
Main switch turns on and off all 3 colors. The 3 tiny switches adjust each separate color. When turned off at main switch the turned back on the flashlight returns to last settings.
the main switch disconnects all power, so there is no draw on the batteries when disconnected this way, this also prevents accidental turn on.
Each color set of LEDs has 7 settings or steps for control of the amount of light per color.
I need to sell this RGB mag mod flashlight, it was done as a "proof of concept" to attempt to prove that i could get White light from multiples of rotated 3W RGB Emitters.
It will only be sold and shipped in the US, because i live in the US and will be selling it and shipping it in this country.
it Comes with NO warrenty:
as it is very specialised, will break if dropped hard, can be messed up by the user many different ways.
It can be dissasembled, so the user could also ruin it that way.
It is not fully water resistant, it Can get wet and operate, but if it does it will cause oxidation issues with the 3 small switches.
There is only 1:
there only ever WILL be one from me, if somone wanted to make them, that has nothing to do with me, this could be a "prototype" if it had not already been completly re-worked from its first revision. for no price will I make another one of the EXACT same design.
it took me 2 years:
to get around to working on it a bit here and there, the 600$ really only covers all the parts and pieces, and purchaces made to "perfect" it, although it is far from perfect. so it is, what it is , and is sold AS-IS, any repairs/returns made to it would cost more.
It will run on about every battery type imaginable, 2 D sized Li-Ion, 8 Alkalines, 8 Ni-mhys, or 8 Lithium primary AAs using the adpter. special care is needed to use the Li-Ions.
its built into a RED mag case, cause i like the Red , dark blue, and purple colors of the mags. and this one was on sale
this close up shows the controls, and the slight aberations on the head, any time you get right down and look at the head you see the little scratches, if you dont look, it looks pretty new. but it sure isnt MINT, after being to the machine shop and all.
it was built like this:
first the switch was removed, then the top was bandsawed off, wires are connected to go to the curcuits.
three holes were meticulously placed above the switch, where they could be easily reached with the same digits used to operate the main switch. well close enough anyways
3 tiny momentary switches are cut so the connections dont collide, then soldered to light computer data wires, covered with heat shrink and then working in the tight space, wedging them into the holes.
the machine shop then custom cut a Huge barrel of copper, into this High Wall, copper heat sink. i abraded the base to insure the thermal epoxy would adhere.
the heat sinc had to be able to Rotate, yet had to be VERY tight specification, so it would make good contact with as much of the flashlight as possible. the specs they used are within 1/1000 of an inch, but depending on the OPTICS or reflector used, the height can be off by as much as 1mm.
a hole is drilled, offset from the center, on purpose of course
the head of the mag was honed out to perfectally match the heat sink, basically only the annodising is removed, not much has really changed.
4 prolite 6 wire emitters are aligned ROTATED 1/4, you can see how the Red gates are rotated 90* around the thing.
each LED emitter is meticulously singlarly epoxied to the copper sink using arctic silver thermal epoxy.
one emitter is not perfectally asemetrical with the others, but they all squeak by being within the specs needed when tested.
this "head" is now wired up, and just imagine for a minute how difficult that would have been and how grusome that would look, 6x4 yup 24 gol darn wires, they culminate into a 6 wire grouping.
so i stripped the wires, got the heat shrink on everything, lined everything up, cleaned and repointed the solder gun, then had a "worker" attempt to connect it all together
it is wired 2x2 2 in series and 2 in parellel, this would be the best configuration for efficiency and for the Task Led N-FLEX boards, and the battery possibilities.
3 of georges most excelent N-Flex boards are used as control, they barely fit semetrically into the mag body.
For extra protection, after the fact, i added a rollup of Vinyl around the boards to insure total isolation from the metal body. as you can see i Left the internal switches on the nflex, there was no reason to remove them, and it made it much easier to test.
a piece of heat shrink in the center, keeps things from moving around down there.
10 micron copper dust is applied after a coating of silicoln (to reduce oxidation of the raw metals)
the copper dust would make the "talc" powder so the sink could rotate, remeber there are 6 wires between the head and the control, so the heat sinc has to hold still while the head is rotated on. the copper "talc" would also work as a filler for heat transfer.
Remember it DOES dissasemble, so it had to be made so it COULD dissasemble so someone could reverse engineer it, without destroying it.
a top unnessiary vinyl cap is put over the control boards, to insure that a connection to them would not occur.
I used and designed and tested the light mostly to work with Li-Ion D cells, but knowing i would have to "let it go" some day, i also insured that it would work with one of these things.
its a 8AA to 2D adapter .
because this is the Older mag, it WILL work with 2500ma Ni-Mhy cells (without boring), but the fit is VERY tight, and one error from the user, and a cells insulation would be ripped off, and could come in contact with the mag body.
it will not work with D sized Ni-mhy, or 3 C ni-mhys or even 4 1/2 sized D ni-cads. so the options are
2x D cell li-ion
8x AA ni-cd or ni-mhy
8x AA Alkalines
8x AA lithium primary
all the 8X stuff that i have tested fit VERY tight, much care is used in inserting it, and a shake is needed to remove it.
if a person used 6X1.2V cells like a 3toD adapter it would NOT be enough voltage without 6 Lithium primary cells.
Ok i suppose you want beamshots? it is not a SPOT light, it will light a whole corner of a room.
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