Spacers for SSC-Luxeon swap

[Fallingwater]

Assuming I manage to crack it open, I'm about to swap the Luxeon I in my Fenix L1S with a SSC P4.
I understand a metal spacer is required under the SSC, as the thickness isn't exactly the same and the beam wouldn't be mated to the reflector without.
Problem is, I don't have spacers, and I really don't want to wait another month for overseas shipping.

What can I use to fashion up a spacer? I have several thin plates of metal around; they aren't copper, so not as thermally conductive, but I'm guessing it wouldn't be much of a problem since the L1S is only a one-watt flashlight and will drive that SSC way below spec.

Also, what's the proper width for the spacer?

Thanks

 

[LumenHound]

You need to raise the die of the SSC emitter by 0.76mm for best focus with a luxeon high dome optimized reflector. Make the spacer 7.33mm in diameter.

 

[louie]

Some of us quite like the results from substituting an SSC and NO reflector mods!
PS - you might check my tip for opening the Fenix L1P here:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=184709

 

[TigerhawkT3]

Basically, it has to be about 0.03" thick, and the diameter/width should be somewhere between "doesn't stably support the emitter" and "interferes with surroundings."

You know those quick-disconnect blade terminals you can find at any automotive store? Those are about the right thickness. I've used them with good results. Ring terminals work, too. You might also try those cheese wheels that come in the net bags (with the laughing cow). The bags are closed with pieces of metal that are also the right thickness for spacers.

Or, you could just order a few from the Shoppe.

 

[munkybiz_9881]

I made my own spacers out of a peice of 3/4 copper tubing. I simply cut about two inches of pipe and then split it open and flattened it out so I had a flat piece. Then I got lucky, I was talking to a tv cable worker and mentioned the problem. He had a solution, he had a set of punch pliers, similar to a hole punch for paper, that I used to make several 1/4" spacers. They worked perfectly after I flattened them back out with a hammer, they may have been a little thicker than what's sold commercially but they worked flawlessly.


Made twenty shims for $.10 and still had some material left over.

 

[DM51]

I think this thread belongs in Homemade and Modified, so I am moving it there.

 

[Lightingguy321]

You could try the Sandwich Shoppe for copper spacer disks. They come in .027" and .030" thicknesses.

 

[LukeA]

Oe you could buy a small sheet of copper or brass from a local hobby shop or hardware store. Both metals are fairly common in .030 thickness.

 

[jsr]

I have used ring terminals. Just cut off the ring portion and it works very well. They are the right thickness (about .030" = .76mm).

 

[Fallingwater]

I added the part about being overseas specifically to avoid suggestions to order them from the sandwich shoppe.

I have ring connectors of the kind you speak of. I'll use those, thanks.

How would the beam come out without the spacer? What's the difference, and why do some like it better that way?

 

[LukeA]

I added the part about being overseas specifically to avoid suggestions to order them from the sandwich shoppe.

I have ring connectors of the kind you speak of. I'll use those, thanks.

How would the beam come out without the spacer? What's the difference, and why do some like it better that way?

Those ring connectors won't transfer heat as well as a solid disc. Without the spacer, the beam will be a little floodier.

 

[TigerhawkT3]

Without the spacer, there'll usually be a large donut hole. I don't know about the L1S in particular.

 

[munkybiz_9881]

I did an L1P, the beautiful thing is you can adjust the height of the led by screwing the pill in farther because the reflector bottoms out on the led die itself. So spacer or not you should be fine. I used a spacer by the way, and its still a little floodier. But for a light that doesn't throw very far anyway I found it better for me. There was no doughnut hole........perfect beam on the floody side.

 

[Illum]

TigerhawkT3, wouldn't be easier to raise the star than to raise the emitter?

 

[TigerhawkT3]

TigerhawkT3, wouldn't be easier to raise the star than to raise the emitter?

I believe the stars compensate for the die height problem, so spacers wouldn't be necessary with a full star swap. Also, it's usually easier to get at just the emitter rather than the whole star.

 

[Illum]

I thought bare luxeon and SSC stars both have the same height

 

[TigerhawkT3]

I thought bare luxeon and SSC stars both have the same height

I don't know for sure; I just have never heard of anyone needing to shim a Seoul star, while I have often needed to shim bare Seoul emitters mounted on Lux star bases. As LeVar Burton says, "Don't take my word for it."

 

[f22shift]

i didn't bother with a spacer. it came out fine.

 

[TexLite]

I would use a spacer,but for isolating the positive Seoul slug,not for focus.A shim punched out of Mica sheet with a regular hole punch works great for isolating the emitter.I've used this on an L1P as well,no tint shift(angry blue)even when running at ~800ma.As munkeybiz says,any difference between the two is adjusted as you screw in the pill/light engine.The beam was extremely floody though.After I sanded it down a bit it was nice.

 

[gunga]

I've done a Lumapower LM302 and Fenix L0D, no spacer on either.

I like the floodiness of both, looks great to my eyes and no noticable donut at normal distances (more than say 4-6").

I also did a Terralux TLE-5 for minimag but then that reflector is adjustable, so no spacer needed.