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Sold/Expired SPF: Another Stubby Mag

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Nice work Dave!


Here's photo of a heat sink that I'm working on. I make a plastic tube that is bored to accommodate the emitter and put the tube in a chuck in the lathe tail stock. This then holds the emitter in place against the heat sink while the glue dries.

I use Angelpoise's great idea for a centering tool when needed. Works great & provides a bit insurance for not damaging the emitter but it is a bit more work to make.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2924599&postcount=52
 
Now that you point this out, I remember seeing it. But, of course, it had slipped my mind, along with a lot of other things. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the suggestion. Like I always say, the main reason we have machine tools is so that we can spend all our spare time making tools for our machine tools. :twothumbs
 
David:

What would you want to use as a driver? Or DD?

Actually, this one wouldn't work with a 26650 because the battery is too big to fit into the tail cap. Things would have to be arranged differently. I'm thinking....

David
 
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David:

What would you want to use as a driver? Or DD?

Actually, this one wouldn't work with a 26650 because the battery is too big to fit into the tail cap. Things would have to be arranged differently. I'm thinking....

David

Big deal. That can easily be solved. I tried to fit 26500 cells in a C tube before. They fit, but it was such a tight squeeze, I couldn't get them out without removing the switch first. I don't currently have access to a lathe, so I got a hand held drill with a long drill bit and wrapped tough sand paper around it. Then stuck it in the inside of the tube and started sanding away the HAIII anodization. And it worked!!!

But in your situation you have access to a lathe, why dont you just lathe off the anodization, and the 26500 cells should easily fit.
 
Smurf:

You are right that boring a C body tube is trivial and commonly done either with a lathe or by brute force methods like yours. The problem I'm talking about is that the switch is placed so deeply onto the tail cap that the spring doesn't reach out far enough to contact the battery. And, the tail cap can't be bored out enough to let the battery slide in without losing the threads.
 
david- keep thinking about it. rather than a ssr-90, I am probably leaning toward the 7x xpg module/optics from "rav" on this forum to go in a stubby c mag w/tailcap and 26650 if possible. I am not sure what voltage that board wants or goes in direct drive, but I would like a d2flex-like driver to allow me from dim to maximum brightness.

any guy named david can't be all bad.

dave g
 
YES. BUT I WOULD LOVE PARREL BATTERIES IMR 26650. ANY CHANCE OF THAT OF PUTTING IN 2 IN A D BODY?
 
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