js-lots
Newly Enlightened
I have been modding flashlights for a little while and everyday I learn a little more. Its is amazing what you can find hidden on this forum. Also amazing is the amount of help that many of the members of this forum is willing to provide when a fairly new flashlight enthusiast is looking for help. Before I show the details of the build I want to thank nailbender, Aircraft800 and wquiles for their ideas and tutorials. Their help was essential. There is not much different about this sst 90 maglite build than any of the other builds except the size host I was using for the sst 90. I noticed that the majority of the builds utilized the d cell maglite for the sst 90 but I really liked the form-factor of c cell. I understand the heat issues associated with this led and that it needs to be heatsinked properly. I just finished the project as I was just waiting on the heatsink.
Here are the items used to build the project.
1. sst 90 -W57S-F11-GN200 from avnet
2. c size britelumens heatsink
3. d2flex driver
4. c cell maglite with laser etching
5. ucl lens
6. 20 guage teflon wire 19 strand
7. 26650 imr li-ion
8. 3 4/5th nimh c cell (trying two different battery config)
9. britelumens mop reflector
I thought the biggest obstacle for my build would be modding the c switch for momentary use. I have heard of a few problems with bouncing and my biggest concern was how to cut that white plastic piece in the switch. I was going to contract out the switch, but I figure I would give it try. I have read a few suggestions and seen a couple of pictures but that is all I have to go on. No real world experience with the switch as I have never modded one before. Well it turns out, modding the switch is not very difficult. Just very time consuming. I followed the online tutorials step by step. The switch came out good and is working fine.
The biggest pain in the *ss was boring out the maglite to accept the 26650. I used a brake hone and it literally took me 2 hours. I went through two li ion drill batteries and had to use an oven mitt to hold the maglite tube but the results were the same in the end.
I used 20 gauge through the switch, but had to use 24 gauge for the led and heatsink. Trying to manage the 20 gauge proved to be too difficult to get the led to lay on the heat sink flush. I didnt want to push my luck and have the sst 90 dome pop off. So I stuck with the smaller wire. I used the aa to seat the led and the d2flex is potted in the heatsink with devcon 2 ton epoxy.
I shortened the tail spring and added a piece of 18 gauge wire to reduce resistance. The heatsink sits perfectly in the maglite body and I coated it with aa to keep it in place and give good thermal transfer.
The project is completed and I put in in my 3 sub c batteries. It works!!!!yeah sort of.
Now here for the crappy part, I measured at the tail and am getting 3A :shrug:. I am pretty bummed. I tried the 26650 and I am getting about 4A. Slightly better, but I am still disappointed. Everything looks good, right wire, right equipment, wrong results. Am I finished? The "sleeper" is more like the "snoozer".
Anyone have ideas or suggestions? I was thinking of shocking the led to lower the vf as others have done with positive results.
Where can I buy the mag c extender. One that will allow me to pop in another sub c or allow me to run 2 18650 in parallel with some sort of custom holder. That will probably give me the juice I need to get this over the 5amp mark.
Does anyone know what I should use in the space between the 26650 and the tailcap. I am not sure If there is a dummy battery out there or some sort of spacer?
Hope everyone enjoyed the build and photos and thanks again.
Here are the items used to build the project.
1. sst 90 -W57S-F11-GN200 from avnet
2. c size britelumens heatsink
3. d2flex driver
4. c cell maglite with laser etching
5. ucl lens
6. 20 guage teflon wire 19 strand
7. 26650 imr li-ion
8. 3 4/5th nimh c cell (trying two different battery config)
9. britelumens mop reflector
I thought the biggest obstacle for my build would be modding the c switch for momentary use. I have heard of a few problems with bouncing and my biggest concern was how to cut that white plastic piece in the switch. I was going to contract out the switch, but I figure I would give it try. I have read a few suggestions and seen a couple of pictures but that is all I have to go on. No real world experience with the switch as I have never modded one before. Well it turns out, modding the switch is not very difficult. Just very time consuming. I followed the online tutorials step by step. The switch came out good and is working fine.
The biggest pain in the *ss was boring out the maglite to accept the 26650. I used a brake hone and it literally took me 2 hours. I went through two li ion drill batteries and had to use an oven mitt to hold the maglite tube but the results were the same in the end.
I used 20 gauge through the switch, but had to use 24 gauge for the led and heatsink. Trying to manage the 20 gauge proved to be too difficult to get the led to lay on the heat sink flush. I didnt want to push my luck and have the sst 90 dome pop off. So I stuck with the smaller wire. I used the aa to seat the led and the d2flex is potted in the heatsink with devcon 2 ton epoxy.
I shortened the tail spring and added a piece of 18 gauge wire to reduce resistance. The heatsink sits perfectly in the maglite body and I coated it with aa to keep it in place and give good thermal transfer.
The project is completed and I put in in my 3 sub c batteries. It works!!!!yeah sort of.
Now here for the crappy part, I measured at the tail and am getting 3A :shrug:. I am pretty bummed. I tried the 26650 and I am getting about 4A. Slightly better, but I am still disappointed. Everything looks good, right wire, right equipment, wrong results. Am I finished? The "sleeper" is more like the "snoozer".
Anyone have ideas or suggestions? I was thinking of shocking the led to lower the vf as others have done with positive results.
Where can I buy the mag c extender. One that will allow me to pop in another sub c or allow me to run 2 18650 in parallel with some sort of custom holder. That will probably give me the juice I need to get this over the 5amp mark.
Does anyone know what I should use in the space between the 26650 and the tailcap. I am not sure If there is a dummy battery out there or some sort of spacer?
Hope everyone enjoyed the build and photos and thanks again.
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