It is an old light granted. I have had it sitting unused and decided to try and Resuscitate it. Bought a nicad to replace the original Mod 25170 with a Kastar Rechargeable Ni-MH 6.0 V supposedly made for the Ultra Stinger (I am concerned about the nomenclature of NiMH (I understood that the Ni-MH would work in the Stinger). It charged up or the charger (original) did indicate it was charged. Excitedly put the battery in and, ahhh crud, a weak beam... I mean just a tiny yellow incandescent ... oh well... so (1) how do I test the charger? Maybe it be bad?? Any other help is greatly appreciated. Like this old 'stick' and hope I can get it going. ALSO, as an aside is there an LED replacement for the inc bulb? Thanks!
Streamlight Ultra Stinger weak beam, very weak?
- Thread starter Bonedoc
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In my experience, it's not worth it getting aftermarket batteries for these. I also got a knock off battery, and was unimpressed with the beam. Then, I got a genuine battery from streamlight, and held the sun in my hand. Now, that knock - off won't light at all anymore, and the genuine is as good as new. Btw, I also have an LED polystinger. It's 8 years old. Original battery. Still gets 3H runtime. Same as when it was new. Just get a genuine battery. Spend once, cry once.
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thermal guy
Flashaholic
Lumen factory does make a led replacement.
What voltage does the new battery measure at? Streamlight brand NiMH batteries work in old Ultra Stingers without any issue.
They do. But I wouldn't. It's an excellent light as an incandescent. There are many better led lights out there if that the route you want
Thank you for the responses. The Kastar is registering 6.35 volts.. I did suspect the battery but it seems to be exhibiting good retention and voltage from the charge. The 'lamp' in the U Stinger just puts out a very poor beam, literally nothing. So wondering (correct me, is the Ultra Stinger a '3' part flashlight - the switch section, the battery section and the bulb section) if any of the segments might be testable... somehow.
The bulb looks good and I don't think it would put out anything if it were not 'good'.. like no part ways for it. Is the switch section unscrewable?
The bulb looks good and I don't think it would put out anything if it were not 'good'.. like no part ways for it. Is the switch section unscrewable?
The switch is removable. Those charging pins are screw. But the problem is your battery. Does it start out decent for a few seconds then dim immediately?
My Kastar hovers at 6.77. Charger it 30min a day on a timer. Light is nice and bright...
Older Streamlight NiMH reads as 6.98v right off the charger. I'd assume your problem is battery related, although there's a tiny chance it's something else. Is there any leakage or corrosion on the spring terminals in the battery compartment?
alpg88
Flashlight Enthusiast
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One cell is shot, i had similar issue with a pump battery pack, it will show correct V with no load voltage, but once under load, one of the cells is not able to keep up. so you basically running on 4 cells. If you can ask for replacement battery from seller, or a refund. you could try 5 sub c cells, they really do not have be soldered into a pack they should work just fine as a set of individual cells.
How are you gonna get around needing the coaxial pos/neg contacts at the head end of the battery stick? Stingers don't have a negative terminal at the end of the tube.
thermal guy
Flashaholic
Killjoy 😂😂
My work here is done.
alpg88
Flashlight Enthusiast
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i had a stinger it was a coax but i thought old US were top bottom, like MC,, Oh well then new battery.
Every incan Stinger is based around the same parts, actually. The two batteries just differ in cell length.
Stinger
Stinger+turbo head=Stinger HP
Stinger-body switch+tailcap switch=Stinger XT
Stinger-body switch+tailcap switch+turbo head=Stinger XT HP
Stinger w/ long body=Super Stinger
Stinger w/ long body+turbo head=Ultra Stinger
Stinger w/ plastic body=Poly Stinger
Stinger
Stinger+turbo head=Stinger HP
Stinger-body switch+tailcap switch=Stinger XT
Stinger-body switch+tailcap switch+turbo head=Stinger XT HP
Stinger w/ long body=Super Stinger
Stinger w/ long body+turbo head=Ultra Stinger
Stinger w/ plastic body=Poly Stinger
Many thanks... got a bit to think about... Mistake - I said, "The Kastar is registering 6.35 volts.".. my second memory bank (wife) said, 'no,it
was 6.85' so I guess that is much better... The charge port/segment/section is 'screws'... so I understand they have to be unscrewed BEFORE that segment will disconnect? My concern is 'buying a factory battery' is about $40 and "IF" it doesn't fix that then I'm in the same place, want
to exhaust (but not sure how I can) test the parts (so we agree that the bulb is not possibly the problem, I mean it either does or does not and right now, even weak, it does turn on?
LIPS... thanks for the photo of setup, almost like mine... I have all my lights/chargers in one area in a work shop... BTW, 'Bill Pearl' ring a bell??
Thanks all!
was 6.85' so I guess that is much better... The charge port/segment/section is 'screws'... so I understand they have to be unscrewed BEFORE that segment will disconnect? My concern is 'buying a factory battery' is about $40 and "IF" it doesn't fix that then I'm in the same place, want
to exhaust (but not sure how I can) test the parts (so we agree that the bulb is not possibly the problem, I mean it either does or does not and right now, even weak, it does turn on?
LIPS... thanks for the photo of setup, almost like mine... I have all my lights/chargers in one area in a work shop... BTW, 'Bill Pearl' ring a bell??
Thanks all!
Yes. You need to unscrew those screws to remove the switch assembly. Do you have a hobby charger? If you do, you can test the battery. I understand not wanting to spend extra money troubleshooting the light. But what you're describing is a bad battery. Take a video and post it here. Then we can see exactly what it's doing
Have you tried cleaning contact points? If those are dirty resistance is high, reducing the perceived output.
I will make a video today... did clean the contacts and also double checked the barrel interior for anything sitting in there like a dead spider...
used a multi-meter for the voltage ... will post the video... also want to take a stab at charging the original.. many thanks.
used a multi-meter for the voltage ... will post the video... also want to take a stab at charging the original.. many thanks.
