- Joined
- Feb 2, 2006
- Messages
- 1,151
Have handled various makes of such adapters and know one critical thing: the adapter unit must not be fully anodized all-round, or the resulting piece will not be compatible with LED drop-ins (unless with auxiliary copper ring installed below). As such, the internal socket surface (excluding the anti-bore) must be left bare for effective electrical conductivity with LED module setups. But the question is, should the internal threads (that connect to the E-head side) be left bare as well?
Asking because I have two Surefire original E-to-C adapters (pulled from new LU60a) which I'd like to strip and re-anodize to LED-compatible specs. To be precise, I'm planning to strip the original HA3 hard black, mask the module socket's internal walls, then re-anodize in hard clear (for compatibility with wider range of OD-colored E-systems). Should I tell the workshop to carry out additional steps, such as masking the internal threads and nickel-plate the bare internal socket surface?
Any take?
Asking because I have two Surefire original E-to-C adapters (pulled from new LU60a) which I'd like to strip and re-anodize to LED-compatible specs. To be precise, I'm planning to strip the original HA3 hard black, mask the module socket's internal walls, then re-anodize in hard clear (for compatibility with wider range of OD-colored E-systems). Should I tell the workshop to carry out additional steps, such as masking the internal threads and nickel-plate the bare internal socket surface?
Any take?
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