Weird.. A2 will not work with a new set of Surefire batts. Exp. 2015.. But the light WILL work with a set of 2018 Exp. batts that are low on power... Anyone got any ideas ?
Both sets are Surefire 3 volt SF123A's. The 2015 Exp. pair have close to full power. The 2018 exp. pair came new with the light and have worked since day one and still work but are low on power. The older 2015 batts don't work in this A2 but WILL work in another light...:shakehead
Do the LEDs work on the A2? One or both of the batteries might be low enough that the incan's regulator won't kick in and only the LEDs will turn on. The batteries would have to be pretty dead for the LEDs not to turn on as they are direct drive.
Do the LEDs work on the A2? One or both of the batteries might be low enough that the incan's regulator won't kick in and only the LEDs will turn on. The batteries would have to be pretty dead for the LEDs not to turn on as they are direct drive.
LED's do not work.. remember what I said.. The light will work fine with the practically dead batteries. The incan is very dim. Switch the batts and the light is dead... But the batts will work fine and bright in another A2...
I need to order more batts and then if the light don't work with other new batts, I'll need to put a call out to Surefire. :shrug:
Only thing I can think of is the batteries are slightly crushed or the A2 is slightly out of spec.
Have you been using different lamps? Sometimes the Lumens Factory and stock Surefire lamps are slightly different spec. Well actually the older A2's have a different spec than the newer ones, so sometimes the newer factory A2 lamps don't make contact with the older A2's.
The LF lamps are made to the older specs to make sure to make contact on older bodies. Sometimes this presses down on the voltage regulator on the newer bodies when the head is screwed down causing contact problems with stock SF lamps.
To be honest, not knowing the voltage of the cells makes this a little tough. As Monocrom said, it's possible that you received a bad cell(s) with the 2015 date.
If you don't already have one, a cheap multimeter, test cables, and a resistor makes a great CR123 tester (with a resistor in parallel, it will test it under load, not just its resting voltage). I test ALL of my CR123 cells before they go into any lights. This is especially important in multi-CR123 lights. If one of my new CR123 cells happens to actually be bad, it could create explosive results in a multi-cell light.