Surefire E1B backup can accept what drop in bulb?

[bigchelis]

I want a 1 CR123 flashlight able to accept Cree Q5, Cree R2's, and Malkoffs drop ins. Do you know if the E1B will do it? Also, what are the fenix lights that also have this capability?

Reason: I have extra drop ins from a previous Surefire G2 so I figure a new host is due.

 

[Size15's]

The E1B features a dedicated LED bezel - it's bezel is not a host for a 'drop-in'.
It's completely the wrong size and shape, and sealed up - not designed nor intended to be taken apart.

 

[bigchelis]

The E1B features a dedicated LED bezel - it's bezel is not a host for a 'drop-in'.
It's completely the wrong size and shape, and sealed up - not designed nor intended to be taken apart.

Thank you,
what 1 cr123 flashlights will accept the Drop ins available for the G2's and 6P's?

 

[kindred_spirits]

Thank you,
what 1 cr123 flashlights will accept the Drop ins available for the G2's and 6P's?

You could find an E1E body, get a TnC E to C adapter, a C bezel, using RCR123's. You would have to find what drop ins work within the RCR's voltage though, i have no idea.

 

[mspeterson]

Surefire 3P

 

[Marduke]

6P using 17670.


It's cheating, but technically it's a 1-cell light then....

 

[RobertM]

Surefire 3P

I'm going to have to agree. The 3P is exactly what he is asking for. You might be able to find one on the CPF Marketplace (since they are discontinued), but they sure go fast over there. You've got to be on your toes :laughing:

 

[SureAddicted]

Sure, the E1B can accept drop in bulbs, providing you use an E to C adaptor and a bezel to suit.

 

[Gunner12]

The problem with 1 CR123 lights that accept drop-ins is that they are hard to find and they don't have the voltage needed to power the buck circuit in most drop-ins.

A White LED need 3.3-3.7v to run at a good output, a CR123 battery is 3v, so a boost circuit would be needed to raise the voltage to the right level.

The buck circuit in most drop-ins lowers the voltage to the right level.

You can try a RCR123 with a normal drop-in, it should work for a short bit before the voltage drops too low for the buck circuit to run. The LED will still be lit but it won't be running at the current the driver would have supplied, so less output.

 

[bigchelis]

The problem with 1 CR123 lights that accept drop-ins is that they are hard to find and they don't have the voltage needed to power the buck circuit in most drop-ins.

A White LED need 3.3-3.7v to run at a good output, a CR123 battery is 3v, so a boost circuit would be needed to raise the voltage to the right level.

The buck circuit in most drop-ins lowers the voltage to the right level.

You can try a RCR123 with a normal drop-in, it should work for a short bit before the voltage drops too low for the buck circuit to run. The LED will still be lit but it won't be running at the current the driver would have supplied, so less output.

I took everyones combined advise. I purchased a E1E, EtoC adaptor. I already have an extra 6P head and Malkoff or Cree R2.

The rechargeables I use are Ebay ones CR123 3.0V 1300mah
Also some 3.7V 1000mAh.

What Cree do you recomend will take advantage of this limited Voltage?

 

[Justin Case]

I've run a SureFire E1L body, TNC E2C adapter, SF G2 bezel with flashlightlens.com UCL AR-coated window, Deal Extreme 6090 drop-in, and one AW 3.7V RCR123A cell. It works fine. I measured 5500 lux at one meter, vs 5800 lux for the OpticsHQ E2 replacement head also driven by one AW cell.

Runtime is also fine. I disagree with the claim that "it should work for a short bit before the voltage drops too low for the buck circuit to run." IIRC, the DX6090 ran for about 50 minutes without any drop in lux.

 

[Justin Case]

I took everyones combined advise. I purchased a E1E, EtoC adaptor. I already have an extra 6P head and Malkoff or Cree R2.

The rechargeables I use are Ebay ones CR123 3.0V 1300mah
Also some 3.7V 1000mAh.

What Cree do you recomend will take advantage of this limited Voltage?

I doubt you will get any decent output using the 3V CR123 cell. That voltage is too low. I tried it with a Deal Extreme 6090 drop-in and got unacceptably low output.

The 3.7V RCR123As are what you want to use, although the 1000 mAh rating you quote is wildly unrealistic. About 500-600 mAh is probably the most you'll get out of an RCR123A Li-ion.

I've had good success with the Deal Extreme 6090 drop-in driven by one AW RCR123A cell.

 

[bigchelis]

I've run a SureFire E1L body, TNC E2C adapter, SF G2 bezel with flashlightlens.com UCL AR-coated window, Deal Extreme 6090 drop-in, and one AW 3.7V RCR123A cell. It works fine. I measured 5500 lux at one meter, vs 5800 lux for the OpticsHQ E2 replacement head also driven by one AW cell.

Runtime is also fine. I disagree with the claim that "it should work for a short bit before the voltage drops too low for the buck circuit to run." IIRC, the DX6090 ran for about 50 minutes without any drop in lux.

I hope you don't mind, but I just copied you on the bulb and battery set up. I needed more 18650's so I figured it was a good time anyways. I see how the bulb is good from the low 3V and my battery is rated at 3.7. So, we should be good to go.

Also, I tested my 18650's rated at 3.7v 2400mAh, but they are always 4.2 to 4.3 volts. I havent checked if its the case with the RCR123's.

 

[Justin Case]

Charging to 4.3V is not a good idea.

 

[bigchelis]

Charging to 4.3V is not a good idea.

I just put the batteries on the charger and when the light turns the opposite color I take them off. I purchased some protected batteries from DX Extreme, but I have been reading about AW's batteries that should hopefully diminish this overcharging issue.

Thanks,

 

[greenLED]

...I have been reading about AW's batteries that should hopefully diminish this overcharging issue.

Getting a good quality charger will *eliminate* the issue.

 

[yaesumofo]

Most of the drop in units are designed for 6 volts. I recomend a 3P and a 3 volt Malkoff.
Yaesumofo

Thank you,
what 1 cr123 flashlights will accept the Drop ins available for the G2's and 6P's?

 

[yaesumofo]

The problem with 1 CR123 lights that accept drop-ins is that they are hard to find and they don't have the voltage needed to power the buck circuit in most drop-ins.

A White LED need 3.3-3.7v to run at a good output, a CR123 battery is 3v, so a boost circuit would be needed to raise the voltage to the right level.

The buck circuit in most drop-ins lowers the voltage to the right level.

You can try a RCR123 with a normal drop-in, it should work for a short bit before the voltage drops too low for the buck circuit to run. The LED will still be lit but it won't be running at the current the driver would have supplied, so less output.

Gene makes a drop in for a single cell light (like the 3P) which works very well on a single cell.
Yaesumofo

 

[Gunner12]

Gene makes a drop in for a single cell light (like the 3P) which works very well on a single cell.
Yaesumofo

That's why I said most.

I've heard the M30 is a great drop-in which also works well with a Li-i0n battery. Not sure about price though.

 

[Justin Case]

I just put the batteries on the charger and when the light turns the opposite color I take them off. I purchased some protected batteries from DX Extreme, but I have been reading about AW's batteries that should hopefully diminish this overcharging issue.

Thanks,

You should get a different charger. It should not charge your Li-ion cells beyond 4.2V, especially if you remove the cells as soon as the charging indicator turns green.

As for depending on the protection circuit, you already did that and you overcharged your cells to 4.3V.