SureFire E2D LED and L2 Lumamax

[jstalford]

I'm interested in purchasing one of these two lights and am wondering if it's possible for either of them to be turned on initially at the low power setting.

Thanks

 

[H2Orower]

I'm interested in purchasing one of these two lights and am wondering if it's possible for either of them to be turned on initially at the low power setting.

Thanks

Welcome to CPF.

The L2 can be turned on initially with a low power setting. It uses a two-stage pressure switch. Press a little - you get 15lumens. Press harder - you get 100.

The E2DL uses a completely different switch type (I personally prefer it) that first turns on in High. When you release the switch and press again within 2 seconds - you get low.

The E2DL is a great light. You can read plenty of reviews and comments about it here on CPF.

 

[asdalton]

The E2DL starts in the high setting. The L2 can be started in the low setting by pressing or twisting the tailcap partway. (It's designed for that.)

Surefire multi-level lights:

Multi-click, high first: E1B, E2DL
Multi-click, low first: E1L, E2L (2008 versions of both)
Push/twist for low, push/twist more for high: L1, L2, A2
Single click, turn ring to adjust: U2
Two-level switch, plus selector ring: K2

 

[jstalford]

Thanks for all the replies. I think I'm going to go with the L1 for now and get the E2D later.

 

[Kestrel]

The first thing I learned about using SureFire flashlights when I bought my first L1 and L2 is that the L2 has a very wide beam so it didn't look any brighter than my L1 (please don't flame me folks:duck:, it's just my impression), but the L1 throws like no tomorrow with its tight beam. Not sure about the E2D in that regard, others here know a lot more. I was just really surprised how how wide & diffuse that L2 beam is, I wasn't really knowledgeable at the time.

FWIW, just in case you find that of interest.

 

[Tempest UK]

The first thing I learned about using SureFire flashlights when I bought my first L1 and L2 is that the L2 has a very wide beam so it didn't look any brighter than my L1 (please don't flame me folks:duck:, it's just my impression),

It's a perfectly valid impression Beam characteristics play a huge part in how "bright" a light appears to our eyes. The measurement of "lumens" only takes into account the overall output of the light, not how that light is distributed.

Regards,
Tempest

 

[Kestrel]

What Tempest said. Beam characteristics were the one thing I couldn't really get a feeling for from the spec sheets. But learning is why we're here, right?:wave:

Oh, and since the emitter in the L1's was updated a while back, but the L2 _still_ has the older, less efficient Luxeon (Hello SF? Hello?), I think the choice is pretty easy. My 1.5 cents.

 

[superflytnt]

Thanks for all the replies. I think I'm going to go with the L1 for now and get the E2D later.

Welcome to the show!

I think you made a good call going with the L1 over the L2. The L2 has pretty dismal runtimes on high and even on low is nothing special for a 2-cell light (to say nothing about it's price).

I would, however, go with the E2DL before the L1. I know that it doesn't start out in low mode but it's really easy to just point it at your leg while you do a quick double tap to get to low mode. I own an E1B (same exact interface) and it's just so simple that I don't know why so many people make a big deal out of it. You don't even have to click the switch, just a soft double-tap will get you momentary low mode and then if you want to lock it on you can click it.

I do love the L1's switch for it's simplicity and reliablilty but don't discount the E2DL just because it doesn't start out on low.

If starting out on low is a huge deal have you looked at the E1L or E2L?

 

[jstalford]

What makes you recommend the e1l/e2l over the L1?

 

[Kestrel]

My older aspheric L1 and my floody, inefficient L2 are nothing special anymore, but during idle moments I fantasize about a distant future where I send both to Milky and he replaces the Luxeon in the aspheric L1 head with a 6v SunGod (or some such thing) and then places the resultant awesome thrower onto the L2 body. 1 OK flashlight + 1 mediocre flashlight + $ = 1 dream throwing machine.

 

[superflytnt]

What makes you recommend the e1l/e2l over the L1?

Don't get me wrong, the L1 is a great light but I was just wondering if you had checked out all of the options.

The E1L is smaller than the L1, it has a lower low level with much more runtime and it has a lower high level (not by much) with much more runtime with the same optic/beam pattern as the L1.

The E2L isn't too much bigger than the L1 but has far better runtimes along with a lower low level and the same optic/beam pattern as the L1.

The L1's strong point is it's switch. It is a very reliable design and you can get either low or high momentary with one push. You have to twist it to get constant on and some people are able to do this one-handed.

It would be best if you could find a local dealer to test these lights out and see what switch design works best for you but they are all really good lights.

BTW, I would try to find one on Ebay or something so you wouldn't have to pay for the recent price increase. They can still be had on the 'Net for the old prices.........................

 

[Size15's]

Surefire multi-level lights:

Multi-click, high first: E1B, E2DL
Multi-click, low first: E1L, E2L (2008 versions of both)
Push/twist for low, push/twist more for high: L1, L2, A2
Single click, turn ring to adjust: U2, K2

Note that the K2 Kroma does not have a click switch - it has a momentary on/off two-stage push button pressure switch with the same User Interface as the L1/L2/A2.
With the Kroma the 'low output' is selected from a choice using the dial on the bezel. The high output overrides this with main beam 'high' output.
(the mil-spec Kroma's high beam can only be activated when the selector dial is set to low output white light. this prevents accidental activation of bright white light whilst the various colours are being used)

 

[asdalton]

BTW, I would try to find one on Ebay or something so you wouldn't have to pay for the recent price increase. They can still be had on the 'Net for the old prices.........................

Check that you're getting the new version with the 65 lumen high. I still see some of the older (Luxeon) model posted on eBay mixed in with the new model.

The package for the current version should have "NEW / HIGHER OUTPUT / MORE RUNTIME" on the right.

 

[superflytnt]

Check that you're getting the new version with the 65 lumen high. I still see some of the older (Luxeon) model posted on eBay mixed in with the new model.

The package for the current version should have "NEW / HIGHER OUTPUT / MORE RUNTIME" on the right.

Good call! That's a good point, thanks for the reminder................

 

[asdalton]

Note that the K2 Kroma does not have a click switch - it has a momentary on/off two-stage push button pressure switch with the same User Interface as the L1/L2/A2.

Fixed now.

 

[crocodilo]

I have both a Cree L1 and a new E2DL. The two beams have the same shape, but the E2DL is easily twice as bright in both modes (one would expect it's low to be lower, but not so in my case). Although the UI on the E2DL is great, on the L1 it's just perfect, my absolute favorite, hands down. Downsides are that the L1 is proportionally larger (only one cell), the switch isn't as well protected, and the bezel crenelations aren't designed for SD (although they are less prone to eating out your pockets, and most people prefer it that way).

Either way, they are two great lights! I'd be hard pressed to choose one... but since my L1 has quite some beam artifacts... What I'd say is the L1 is more utility oriented, and the E2DL has the SD edge. Choose accordingly, and after some time... get both!

Mind you, the beam shape of these lights is geared towards throw. If you antecipate mostly indoor or close range use, a floody beam would be better suited.

 

[tacticalmedic87]

that ones a tuffy. I have both and both are my EDC's, I can't decide between the two.

 

[jstalford]

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm pretty settled on the L1 for now and then I'll pick up the E2D a little later. Followed shortly by a UA2 and maybe a little Fenix PD30 to bum around with...This is going to get expensive fast.

 

[Gunner12]

Remember that current Surefire the E1B, E1L, E2L, E2D, and L1 all use the same optic, so you get the same beam pattern, just different outputs.

There are also people here who would modify you lights for you(at a price of course) to what ever you need(within reason).

If you think this is expensive, don't look in HIDs, Custom, Modded, or Semi-custom lights.

:welcome:

 

[Kestrel]

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm pretty settled on the L1 for now and then I'll pick up the E2D a little later. Followed shortly by a UA2 and maybe a little Fenix PD30 to bum around with...This is going to get expensive fast.

I think you'll like your L1, I was so impressed with the newer model that I persuaded four friends to get them.

At this point, you might want to move toward SF's that take Malkoff drop-ins, then the fun really begins.:naughty: