Surefire G2/6P/6PD

[Chrontius]

I'm thinking one of those three models for my birthday for lack of any better ideas. There's still inklings of a 2008 model Inova T2 or 2008 Surefire E2D, but those are both a bit more expensive.

Which would you get and why?

 

[jbviau]

My opinion: Go for the G2. It's comparatively much cheaper and yet can do just about everything that the other models can do. The parts for these three lights are all interchangeable. The G2 is a good starter light and was my first.

Something to think about: If you're like me, you'll start getting different bulbs and drop-ins to try out in it almost immediately. If you can tell already that you'll want this specific light to give you ultra-high output for long periods of time (rather than in short bursts) you might just start with the 6P. It's aluminum, so it gets rid of heat well, and it has a glass lens (pyrex), which is better for high temperatures than lexan.

The 6PD I wouldn't bother with due to reported problems with the clicky switch. Also, I've heard that the crenellated bezel on the 6PD gets caught on things (like pockets).

Others will weigh in, I'm sure!

 

[USM0083]

I would get a G2L. The P60L is a good module with decent output and very good runtime. The G2L comes with a aluminum bezel, which is good for heat sinking purposes if you use a high output LED.

If you like incans, a Lumens Factory HO-4 and a rechargeble 17670 provides about 50 minutes of light, with an output comparable to a stock Surefire P60 lamp.

If you want more light in an incan, a popular route is to use a LF HO-9 and 2 x RCR-123s which will give you about 160 torch lumens for 20 min (declining to 88 lumens towards the end.)

From MD's guide:
Cell configuration: 2xRCR123

Bulb Options:
LF D26 ES-9: 7W, 98 - 56 lumen in 38 minutes
LF D26 SR-9: 9W, 126 - 74 lumen in 25 minutes
LF D26 HO-9: 12W, 160 - 88 lumen in 20 minutes
SF P90: 9W, 118 - 70 lumen in 25 minutes


Cell configuration: 1x17670

Bulb Options:
LF D26 HO-4: 7W, 106 - 69 lumen in 49 minutes
G&P D26 3.7V: 8W, 118 - 72 lumen in 40 minutes
WE D26 3.7V: 8W, 114 - 69 lumen in 42 minutes
LF D26 EO-4: 9W, 122 - 70 lumen in 37 minutes

 

[NelsonFlashlites]

Personally, I'd get the 6P because I already have the other two.

I haven't have a problem with any of my crenellated light snagging on things or tearing up pockets. It's the clips that tear up the pockets for me.

 

[jugg2]

6P IMHO. You get an all aluminum light for good heatsinking if you go the LED route, and you get a pyrex lens that holds up to heat well it you the high power incan route.

 

[adamlau]

6PD direct from SureFire. This ensures that you will receive the recently redesigned click-on tailcap. You can obtain a twist-on tailcap for improved reliability as an accessory. Add on an FM24 and Dereelight 1S Q5 SMO & OP and you will have enough spill and throw to counter most any situation.

 

[generic808]

6P IMHO. You get an all aluminum light for good heatsinking if you go the LED route, and you get a pyrex lens that holds up to heat well it you the high power incan route.

I agree. I own the the 6P and G2 and I have to say, the overall quality of the 6P is better than the G2. But the G2 is a good throw around light. I keep one in my car at all times while a 6P is usually on me.

 

[Chrontius]

I'm mostly liking the 6p and compatibles with regard to moddability and versatility - I can use anything from a 295-lumen Cree module with a 9p conversion adapter to a Lumen Factory ultra-high output bulb, to a Malkoff to... the stock bulb.

I want this one light to do everything from EDC to weapon-light (mounted on my paintball gun) to nightstand bump-in-the-night light, with suitable aftermarket mods, bulbs, and accessories.

Also, are there any aftermarket clips available for the 6P series?

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

I'm thinking one of those three models for my birthday for lack of any better ideas. There's still inklings of a 2008 model Inova T2 or 2008 Surefire E2D, but those are both a bit more expensive.

Which would you get and why?

I'd say go for the G3 instead...

 

[generic808]

I'd say go for the G3 instead...

Yes, the G3, another good option to throw into the mix. The 6P is probably the most universal light though, which can be modified in many different ways. You could always convert your 6P to a 9P with an extension :naughty:

 

[generic808]

HERE'S_A_LINK to a reputable seller on ebay selling 6P's for $42 shipped!! I purchased a second one from the guy because it was too good of a deal to pass up. Looks like he's out for now, but just wait for him to post more. Read his feedback; there's a lot of satisfied new 6P owners out there. Good luck with your decision.

 

[ace0001a]

Yeah, I like the 6P and 6PD...great flashlights along with the fact that there's a ton of mods and/or parts out there. The 6PD I recently got from Battery Junction has the redesigned tailcap and works great. I did have one of the old Z59 tailcaps from one I got off CPFMP...it got stuck, I then called Surefire and the sent me a new redesigned one a week later. They didn't have me send the old one back, so I messed around with it...followed a tip here that lubricant would fix it and sure enough it did.

 

[flashy bazook]

I think you should also consider what it is you want this particular flashlight for.

Personally, I find there are advantages to having the 6P formfactor (yes, in aluminium for the better heatsinking) because you can use a lot of interchangeable parts that are out there (latest Q5 emitters, standard-sized beam shapers/diffusers, different type battery tubes, etc.). So you can keep upgrading the light over time.

On the other hand, the Surefire itself is rather expensive for what you get, especially if you are planning on upgrading/modding it over time. The LED is not the absolute latest, and my understanding is that it is not even regulated (for sure in the xenon version, not completely sure about the LED version). The bulb/emitter will be discarded, you may well add different battery tubes (1x18650, 2x18650 for example), and a different tailcap.

So at that point you may wish you had bought a cheaper ("clone") alternative for the modding operations (great deal on a Cabela clone plus knife thrown in for 20 bucks, and the deal includes also a holster, and even 2 CR123A batteries - check the deals subforum in the market place).

So if you are still at the stage of deciding what to do, you can consider getting a cheaper clone and working around that.

 

[nbp]

Whatever you buy, you should throw in a G2 anyways just for good measure. $35 for a surefire can't be beat, and it really is a nice light to have around. Despite the relatively short runtime, I love mine...it feels right, works right, gotta love it.

 

[kavvika]

6PD. Whichever of the three you get, you'll want to convert it to a 6PD in the end anyways. I like the z59 far better than the twistie tailcap, and the strike bezel is awesome, although I'm using the $14 eBay SS strike bezel. The G2 is great for in the winter, since it doesn't get cold, though.

 

[Chrontius]

I think you should also consider what it is you want this particular flashlight for. [...]

On the other hand, the Surefire itself is rather expensive for what you get, especially if you are planning on upgrading/modding it over time. The LED is not the absolute latest, and my understanding is that it is not even regulated (for sure in the xenon version, not completely sure about the LED version). The bulb/emitter will be discarded, you may well add different battery tubes (1x18650, 2x18650 for example), and a different tailcap.

So at that point you may wish you had bought a cheaper ("clone") alternative for the modding operations (great deal on a Cabela clone plus knife thrown in for 20 bucks, and the deal includes also a holster, and even 2 CR123A batteries - check the deals subforum in the market place).
[...]

I'm planning on leaving the body mostly stock. Only the light engine is going to be replaced on a semi-regular basis, and I'll probably swap in a UCL glass lens (thermal shock is not much of an issue in Florida). Since the warranty probably doesn't cover bulbs, the coverage shouldn't be changed by any mods I do.

BTW - are there screw-in 6P clips available?

 

[roymail]

You mentioned changing out the light modules ("replaced on a semi-regular basis"), so unless you just want a 2 x CR123 light, I'd recommend you get a 9P or G3 in order to fully utilize the 2 x 17500 rechargeable option. I'm thinking you'll probably want this setup eventually. Why... because it'll give you better drive and runtime for most P60 type modules both LED or incandescent. Of course, a 6P + extender will do the same thing. :thumbsup:

 

[chuck4570]

The G2 is tough as nails, just get yourself a glass lens for it.

 

[Chrontius]

You mentioned changing out the light modules ("replaced on a semi-regular basis"), so unless you just want a 2 x CR123 light, I'd recommend you get a 9P or G3 in order to fully utilize the 2 x 17500 rechargeable option. I'm thinking you'll probably want this setup eventually. Why... because it'll give you better drive and runtime for most P60 type modules both LED or incandescent. Of course, a 6P + extender will do the same thing. :thumbsup:

Was eyeballing a particular 6P expander that gives the benefit of the Z series combatlights and a 9p all in one - via LightHound.

Now I'm debating 6p vs. A2 vs. E2 Executive (not elite?) as I've found a good deal on all three.

 

[roymail]

Excellent... go for it! I really like the detonator extension. Probably need to get one for my 6P.