Surefire KT4 Seoul P7 Head...

DaFABRICATA

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An old friend that I've known since I was like 5 years old had recently gotten ahold of me. Turns out he works in the LED industry. I told him about the P7's and he ended up getting me 2. I have been trying to figure out something to do with them. I decided to drop one down into a surefire Kt4 reflector. I used a turbohead module heatsink to adjust focus. It looked semi-similar to a turbo head with an LED module in it...(yellow around the sides and reflection of the heatsink in the middle). I basically just turned a turbohead heatsink upside down, sanded down the cup where the driver board goes and drilled holes in the sides for the wires. I am using the reflector as an extension of the heatsink. I am just direct driving it off an 18650 until something comes out to drive this huge thing. It is pretty darn bright and the hotspot is Huge!:twothumbs

Now we know the stock KT4 reflector will work with this. And this Sucker THROWS!!!
WOW!! I just took it out in my backyard and am very happy with the results!!:eek::thumbsup:
To my eye and VERY limited time using this, it easily outthrows my M60 drop-in and BOG Q5. And again the Hot-spot is Really Big. I dont know what reflector will allow for a tighter more focused hotspot, but I hope there is something....I am happy with it for now!!:twothumbs

Heres the pictures:

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026.jpg


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After using this more tonight, I am noticing a donut hole out past 10-15 feet. My eyes must have been tired last night. It is more noticable the futher out it goes, but still throws pretty well. It would be cool if someone made a drop-in reflector that would focus this more tightly. Still a very bright light! The reflector seems to be doing a decent job of pulling heat away. I let it run for a few minutes, quickly pulled off the head and the back of the reflector was warm. I really want to see what this is capable of at higher current. :naughty:

What battery would give max output with direct driving this LED?:anyone:




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Good job, that's a very nice mod :thumbsup:
These P7s are huge! Gonna have to buy/mod one eventually too... :thinking:
 
Nice work.

What's the thermal path like between the reflector and the head exterior? Did you lose that foam thingie that provides shock insulation in Millenium turboheads?

Also... if the donut is still visible with the big KT4 reflector, it would probably be next to impossible to get rid of in smaller reflectors... I wonder how SF will handle the issue in the upcoming SSC P7 products, such as the Invictus and the KL9 head... extra heavy stipple? Integrated diffuser? Custom frosted optic?

Just thinking out loud...
 
Wow great work! Any chance of comparison outdoor beamshots with say the BOGQ5 or M60?
 
Nice, had been wondering about these... great idea to use an upside-down TM as the mounting point! :thumbsup:
 
Nice work.

What's the thermal path like between the reflector and the head exterior? Did you lose that foam thingie that provides shock insulation in Millenium turboheads?

Also... if the donut is still visible with the big KT4 reflector, it would probably be next to impossible to get rid of in smaller reflectors... I wonder how SF will handle the issue in the upcoming SSC P7 products, such as the Invictus and the KL9 head... extra heavy stipple? Integrated diffuser? Custom frosted optic?

Just thinking out loud...

Surefire will use a focusing ring to handle the P7.

Bill
 
Hi DaFABRICATA, I'm attempting this very same mod. Can you please share some measurements of the sink/tower ?
Thanks!
 
You will need to drill out the opening for your SF TH from around 9.5mm diam stock to perhaps about 14.2mm to allow for clearance for the P7's electrical leads. Once you do that, the TH won't be compatible with any lamps with the stock SF dimensions.

Determining the height of the tower depends on the P7's case height and the location of the LED die within the case. You need to get the P7's die at the right focus height in the TH's reflector. If the P7 is identical to the P4, then you need a tower height of about 20.45mm.

Generically, the way to determine what tower height you need is to take a stock SF incan tower lamp like an MN20 and measure the filament height above the top face of the wide flange. Then figure out the LED die height within the LED's case. Subtract that die height value from your filament height measurement and that's the approx tower height that you need. You could subtract off another 0.003" or so to account for the thickness of the thermal epoxy that you'll undoubtedly use to glue the LED to the top of the tower.

If I were building an LED tower, I'd probably use an XP-G2 or XM-L2, reflowed onto an 8mm diam MCPCB. That will allow you to use a tower that fits the stock TH opening. IIRC, the tower height to focus an XM-L2 on a datiLED MCPCB is about 21.59mm.
 
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