The Official Zebralight Thread .

[indigon]

Thanks guys, good point that it could be another change they've made with this latest modification of the SC53c N.

Jon yes true, there's lots I love about the TS10 - anduril, aux lights and a nice tint but it is obviously a relatively cheap build quality compared to zebra and I just can't get on with the tailcap button at all I really like the Zebra UI for EDC too, I like being able to choose particular levels with known lumens and runtimes rather than just 'X steps between n and m' with anduril.

Haha Lips, one reason the old semi-supported 14500 version might have been nice ...

I'm using the SC53c N on an eneloop pro and the strobe seems to be hitting H1 well in the array of dizzying flashes, it could be an optical illusion but it seems more than adequate for this AA light .. Not that I use the fast strobe very much.

Agree the ZL UI is very flexible once you get used to it. I have both the SC53c N and SC65c HI, they are both terrific EDC lights. You can fine tune them to your exact preferences. They are well built and if you are a pocket carrier you never have to worry about it going off accidentally sticking it into your pocket.

Sorry to hear some folks have trouble learning the ZL UI. I think once you get it programmed the first time you're gold. Then it becomes second nature to fine tune it to your exact preference.

And if anyone is still having trouble programming a ZL you can always start with this old classic reference guide to get going:

ZL programming for dummies

 

[jon_slider]

You can fine tune them to your exact preferences.

thanks for the video link.. here it is set to skip the first 6 minutes of unrelated talk:

 

[lampeDépêche]

Problem:
SC600w IV Plus Hi, purchased Jan 2023 (10 months ago). Worked fine for first 10 months.
Suddenly, it strobes in H1 and H2. Doesn't matter whether I go directly from off to H, or ramp up from L-M-H, as soon as it gets to High it strobes, looks like faster than 2hz.

Same problem on several batteries, including IMR 3500mah (3 different cells) and a Hohm Life 63watt 3015mah.

Have tried resetting factory for G5, G6, G7 (tho I never programmed them to begin with).

I have seen some other discussions about the problem -- this Reddit post is a perfect description:



But there's no solution on that thread.

Any advice?

Thanks! lampedepeche.

 

[ilikeguns40]

That's unfortunate. I would contact Zebralight and hopefully they will resolve the issue so they can fix whatever it is on their next lights

Sucks to hear these issues considering Zebralights are one of my favorites. Unfortunately after hearing all these issues I can longer depend on them the way I want to

 

[lampeDépêche]

Unfortunately after hearing all these issues I can longer depend on them the way I want to

Well, I wouldn't blame them until you hear more facts. Maybe it's me -- maybe the light is okay and I am doing something wrong.
There are plenty of Zebra owners on this forum, so probably somebody knows the answer out there.

 

[ilikeguns40]

Hopefully your light is ok. I will still continue to use them because I like them so much

Have you tried manually setting H1 and H2 to a different output level in G6 or G7 while doing the 12 click programming? Maybe it will take it out of strobe

 

[jon_slider]

But there's no solution on that thread.

he posted a follow up.. says Zebra warranty replaced the light

sorry your light has the same high modes failure

 

[lampeDépêche]

he posted a follow up.. says Zebra warranty replaced the light

sorry your light has the same high modes failure

Ah -- okay. Hey, ilikeguns40 -- I think we can blame Zebralight, now!
Alright -- I'll email them and try to arrange a warranty replacement. Bummer, though.

 

[jon_slider]

Bummer, though.

yes, but, at least it happened during warranty

it may not be Zebralights fault, it could have been a batch of components that were not up to par. Ive seen this sort of thing happen w HDS also, they had a bad batch of power supplies in 2018... Sometimes, through no fault of the vendor, components fail

Fortunately for the consumer, Zebralight seems to have excellent after sales support. I hope your warranty claim gets resolved without drama.

 

[cave dave]

I hate the new thin black Zebralight clip, so I put on a Spyderco Clip (technically this is from a Byrd knife) on my old SC60w. I moved the old silver clip off the SC60w onto a new SC65c.

The hole pattern is the right distance, so I gave it a try.
NOTE: The Zebralight bit holes seem to be non-standard and easy to strip. The silver phillips worked fine but the black were problematic. Neither T6, 1.5mm hex, or 1/16" hex seemed to fit well, I used a T6 and it had trouble removing one of the screws. I've never have had a problem with Spyderco or Benchmade T6 screws.
**Edit** Website once said it's a T6, BUT IT IS NOT, It is a Hex of some sort, so be careful!

I found the tip too close to the head so it was hard to slide into your pocket, so I tried to bend it up and I found it really hard to bend so I applied more force and snapped the tip completely off. After some Dremel work to round it off I found the new tip with a curved bend up an even better fit for the light. Your middle finger snuggles into the curve of the clip while your thumb is over the button for a secure and comfortable grip. While I had the Dremel out I could have taken the third screw hole off, but I thought it might make a nice lanyard attachment point.

The Broken Tip:

After rounding the tip

 

[peternewb]

SC65c HI is my first programmable flashlight. I'm tried a bunch of different setups and settled on one I really like:

Mappings

• Default: Long-press for lows, double-click for mediums, and short-press for highs
  Double-click has an annoying flash. Holding the button always cycles from low up to high, which is nice. Good for handing to a friend or neighbor, but I really don't like short-press for high; double-click should be for high.
• M/H swap: Long-press for lows, short-press for mediums, and double-click for highs
  This mapping is more conventional, but this leads to an odd high-to-low hold cycle that starts from low. Good for handing to a friend or neighbor, but I don't like the high-to-low cycle.
• Reverse: Short-press for lows, double-click for mediums, and long-press for highs
  This mapping in very unconventional. The hold cycle is from high-to-low, which is annoying. But you can easily access the highs, regardless of whether the light is already on.
• Rotated: Short-press for lows, long-press for mediums, and double-click for highs
  This mapping feels surprisingly natural, with a short press for low, holding a bit longer for medium, and holding even longer cycling up to high. It breaks convention by using long-press for medium rather than low, and the hold cycle starts from medium instead of low, but at least it's still a low-to-high cycle. This is far and away my favorite.

My programming

• I make L1=L2 and H1=H2, so there's just one low and one medium. I use M1 and M2 for high and turbo. So I have 4 brightness levels. I have to remember to switch back from turbo to high. This feels like the best compromise between brightness levels and ease of use.
• I don't use double-click to get to high, preferring instead to press and hold for high, as this works even if the flashlight is already on.
• I use G6 outdoors with H1=H2=13.6, L1=L2=66, M1=244, and M2=660 lumens for a smooth ramp.
• I use G7 indoors with H1=H2=1.3, L1=L2=13.6, M1=66, and M2=660 lumens, for a smooth ramp followed by a big jump up to turbo.
• I don't use G5.

When the light is Off:

• Short-click turns on the light to Low
• Keep holding for 0.6 seconds for Medium
• Continue holding and it'll cycle up to High/Turbo then wrap around - release at desired level
• You can also double-click for High/Turbo
• 6 short-clicks for brighter outdoor mode
• 7 short-clicks for dimmer indoor mode

When the light is On:

• Short-click turns it off
• Press-and-hold to cycle through Low, Medium, and High/Turbo, starting with Medium - release at desired level
• When on High/Turbo, double-click to switch back and forth between the two; your selection is memorized

Thoughts and suggestions are welcome. Have any of you tried this rotated mapping?
-
Peter

 

[id30209]

Today i got another SC65 and i compared it with my moded 65 with 5000k 719emitter.

 

[AstroTurf]

Today i got another SC65 and i compared it with my moded 65 with 5000k 719emitter.

i like the one the left...

 

[fnsooner]

I lost my SC64c LE, so I ordered another today. I saw that they have a new model but it was back ordered. That is probably old news to you guys though. I am wondering if I should get the SC65c when it comes back in stock.

While I was on Z's site, I took a peak at my account history. Fourteen separate orders going back to 2011. Yikes. Zebralight for life I guess.

 

[indigon]

.Have any of you tried this rotated mapping?
-
Peter

I use my SC65c like this:
I'm a L-M-H person, YMMV.

G5 default, not used.

G6 & G7 :
1-click: Long Press: 2-clicks:
L1=4 ....... M1=6 ....... H1=11
L2=3 ....... M2=7 ....... H2=12

Most of my use is on lower levels.
Seems to work out ok for me like this.
Easy to remember,

Great light. Battery lasts forever!

 

[id30209]

i like the one the left...

That one is 5000k. My fav over all XHP35's ever made

 

[peternewb]

I use my SC65c like this:
I'm a L-M-H person, YMMV.

G5 default, not used.

G6 & G7 :
1-click: Long Press: 2-clicks:
L1=4 ....... M1=6 ....... H1=11
L2=3 ....... M2=7 ....... H2=12

Most of my use is on lower levels.
Seems to work out ok for me like this.
Easy to remember,

Great light. Battery lasts forever!

Ah, so you're also using 1-click for low, long-press for medium, and 2-clicks for high. And with just 3 levels per UI group, the only UI state to keep track of is which UI group you're in. Nice.

Here is my current setup in the same terms:
G6 & G7 :
1-click: Long Press: 2-clicks: 2x2-clicks:
L=6 ....... M=8 ....... H1=10 ....... H2=12
L=4 ....... M=6 ....... H1=8 ....... H2=12

I tried L-M-H for a while, and may go back to it.

 

[indigon]

Ah, so you're also using 1-click for low, long-press for medium, and 2-clicks for high. And with just 3 levels per UI group, the only UI state to keep track of is which UI group you're in. Nice.

Here is my current setup in the same terms:
G6 & G7 :
1-click: Long Press: 2-clicks: 2x2-clicks:
L=6 ....... M=8 ....... H1=10 ....... H2=12
L=4 ....... M=6 ....... H1=8 ....... H2=12

I tried L-M-H for a while, and may go back to it.

G6 and G7 are programmed the same on mine.

L2 - M2 - H2 are the 2-click secondary menu.
Of course last used "2" becomes "1" and is memorized.

G6 & G7 : (same)
1-click: Long Press: 2-clicks:
L1=4 ....... M1=6 ....... H1=10
L2=3 ....... M2=7 ....... H2=12

As far as I know no matter how convoluted you programmed it, Zebralights always scroll L-M-H (press-hold).

 

[peternewb]

G6 and G7 are programmed the same on mine.

L2 - M2 - H2 are the 2-click secondary menu.
Of course last used "2" becomes "1" and is memorized.

G6 & G7 : (same)
1-click: Long Press: 2-clicks:
L1=4 ....... M1=6 ....... H1=10
L2=3 ....... M2=7 ....... H2=12

As far as I know no matter how convoluted you programmed it, Zebralights always scroll L-M-H (press-hold).

Ah, I misunderstood. Just as an example, if you program L1= 10, M1=6, and H1=4, then press-hold will scroll L-M-H, but since L is 10 and H is 4, it'll actually look like H-M-L. Total freedom to assign any of the 12 lumen outputs to each of the 6 levels enables quite dramatic customization.

 

[Lips]

2 New Lights marked for December 2023

4	SC700d HI	129				1	Cree XHP70.3 HI	90+	5000	3	spill + spot	16					1.5	4.2	3.2	12/2023

A6

49

1

Lumileds LUXEON V

70+

5000

5

Floody

5

800

3

0.94

3.63

1.3

12/2023

TIR, magnets, uni-body, potted electronics, efficient driver, and shorter than H600

TIR, magnets, uni-body, potted electronics, efficient driver, and shorter than H600




Edit: Screen Shot