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Sold/Expired THE ORIGINAL SF-M6 XTN 36 Tube for Regulated 4800mAh HDM6 (Or PIR) Packs

Bogus1

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Joined
Feb 7, 2005
Messages
1,332
Location
Oregon
Hi Pete,

I've got to say that modded Lamp Assembly is simply incredible. You are right that osram Bulb is great in these lights. I might only keep one M6 with stock bulbs. I'm not sure I even see any reason to do that. With my heavy strippled M6 reflector the beam is almost as artifact free as the surefire bulbs. This bulb makes the MN-21 look brown. I actually had to check to make sure it wasn't the Lola! lol. Now if only I could get a tail cup to lose these stupid springs I'm using as a stop gap.

Thanks,
Eric
 

petrev

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 12, 2005
Messages
1,535
Location
SW England
Bogus1 said:
Hi Pete,

I've got to say that modded Lamp Assembly is simply incredible. You are right that osram Bulb is great in these lights. I might only keep one M6 with stock bulbs. I'm not sure I even see any reason to do that. With my heavy strippled M6 reflector the beam is almost as artifact free as the surefire bulbs. This bulb makes the MN-21 look brown. I actually had to check to make sure it wasn't the Lola! lol. Now if only I could get a tail cup to lose these stupid springs I'm using as a stop gap.

Thanks,
Eric

Hi Eric,

Glad you like the MN21 Mod-LA64275
Top bulb - the Osram 64275AX-35W.

Hassle AWR again for the Mod Tail-Cup and I find a short (1/3rd) piece of Mag Switch lamp-pillar spring allows everything to float nicely - AWR designed the tail-cup to fit the spring (full length) so that people can swap back in an emergency to the MB20 battery magazine without having to swap the tail-cup. Neat.

Cheers Pete
 

cnjl3

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 22, 2006
Messages
723
Location
Deep in the heart of Texas
Hola! Pete:

Got a question for you.
If this osram 64275AX makes the MN21 look brown it sounds very tempting.
What voltage do you set your PIR to?
I saw where you have replaced the bulb once already in your clever MN mod holder-did it blow because it was overdriven?
If it isnt overdriven are you gonna "push the pedal to the metal" as the saying goes? Or do you have to be careful because of your addiction to Li-Ions?
I have looked at your MN mod and its too bad i cant try it with a 35w IRC because it the bulb is too wide to enter the M6 reflector
:awman:
Anyway since it sounds like we are gonna be in M6 heaven shortly - I probably will try out your bulb substitution.

CYL

Carlos
 

petrev

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Messages
1,535
Location
SW England
cnjl3 said:
Hola! Pete:

Got a question for you.
If this osram 64275AX makes the MN21 look brown it sounds very tempting.
What voltage do you set your PIR to?
I saw where you have replaced the bulb once already in your clever MN mod holder-did it blow because it was overdriven?
If it isnt overdriven are you gonna "push the pedal to the metal" as the saying goes? Or do you have to be careful because of your addiction to Li-Ions?
I have looked at your MN mod and its too bad i cant try it with a 35w IRC because it the bulb is too wide to enter the M6 reflector
:awman:
Anyway since it sounds like we are gonna be in M6 heaven shortly - I probably will try out your bulb substitution.

CYL

Carlos

Hi Carlos

I set the MN-64275AX to 7V. I have just got a TRMS meter so now calibrating, setting and checking the PIR is much easier.

At a TRMS 7V output the 64275 is drawing a steady 6.2A and the PIR drives it beautifully - I blew my first bulb trying out a direct drive Li-Ion pack and guess what - Phuuuuttt - it was very bright but only for about 1/2second. My 6C-Mag 64275 NiMh direct drive measures at 6.29A but not for very long -then it settles to about 6A falling gradually. So there may be a tad more overdrive available ? ? ?

My guess is that 7V/6.2A is a good place to stop overdriving - but maybe AWR can let us know his thoughts and calculations on where to set the 64275 for optimum power etc.

At the 7V setting the MN-64275AX is really sweet and the Li-Ions are running at about 1.3C(4800mAh) or 1.9C(3300mAh) according to my calcs. again hopefully AWR can give us the lowdown on all the facets of this mod.

Cheers Pete
 
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andrewwynn

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Apr 28, 2004
Messages
3,763
Location
Racine, WI USA
7V is also what i use for the 64275.. it is an incredible bulb.. tends toward 'flood' with the axial filament but makes for a beautiful beam.. it 'looks n feels' like an 1185.. with good reason.. about the same exact amount of lumen and power.

-awr
 
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cue003

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 10, 2002
Messages
2,461
Location
NC, USA
Sounds like a great bulb setup for the upcoming 4800 mah battery pack. This bulb and the MN20 as the LOLA should be a sweet combo.

Will the option for plug and play still be in your design AWR if we use the 64275/MN20 combo instead of the MN21/MN20 combo?

If we left your MN21/MN20 driver as it is today and plugged in the 64275 without adjustments what happens? Is it still brighter/whiter than the MN21?

I believe it was mentioned somewhere earlier that the 64275 will run for approx 40 min or something on the 4800 setup, right?

Curtis
 

petrev

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Messages
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cue003 said:
Sounds like a great bulb setup for the upcoming 4800 mah battery pack. This bulb and the MN20 as the LOLA should be a sweet combo.

Will the option for plug and play still be in your design AWR if we use the 64275/MN20 combo instead of the MN21/MN20 combo?

If we left your MN21/MN20 driver as it is today and plugged in the 64275 without adjustments what happens? Is it still brighter/whiter than the MN21?

I believe it was mentioned somewhere earlier that the 64275 will run for approx 40 min or something on the 4800 setup, right?

Curtis

Hi Curtis

AWR will give the final word but to help (?) in the meantime - HD is set to current limit for the MN21 so for the 64275AX the setting is just upped a bit and the voltage limit remains the same for the MN20.

If a 64275 is run on the same settings as the MN21 unadjusted my guess is it may be dimmer as it would be running at about 5A (I think thats the MN21 setting) - ? AWR ?

Nominal estimate is ~48min - my guess is about 43-45 min real time


As said AWR will give us the full lowdown shortly

Cheers Pete
 

cnjl3

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Jan 22, 2006
Messages
723
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Deep in the heart of Texas
Hola! Pete!

Once again a big THANKS for the prompt reply and info:)

I also thought about getting a TRMS DMM but couldnt justify the costs since the only gadget i have that would require a TRMS read is my PIRs.

I was under the impression that the formula that Winny provided to calculate the actual voltage would be "close enough" .

So now that you have a TRMS DMM did you find that your calculations were "on the money?" or is the TRMS DMM giving a different reading?

Hey, be carefull not to burn out your retina's with all your play toys
yellowlaugh.gif


CYL

Carlos:grin2:
 

petrev

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SW England
cnjl3 said:
Hola! Pete!

Once again a big THANKS for the prompt reply and info:)

I also thought about getting a TRMS DMM but couldnt justify the costs since the only gadget i have that would require a TRMS read is my PIRs.

I was under the impression that the formula that Winny provided to calculate the actual voltage would be "close enough" .

So now that you have a TRMS DMM did you find that your calculations were "on the money?" or is the TRMS DMM giving a different reading?

Hey, be carefull not to burn out your retina's with all your play toys
yellowlaugh.gif


CYL

Carlos:grin2:


HOLA !! Carlos

Nice !

My only real use is the PIR so I got one secondhand - still too much but . . .

The formula seems to work fine but it was a pain in the arse to get measurements out of my M6 setup ( getting Vbatt and Vbulb was just too much effort ) so I have no real comparisons with the M6 just trusting the meter at the moment !

Seems good as I have recalibrated my PIR plus 3% and it now reads the same as my Mag-6C NiMh-DirectDrive with fresh cells (allowed to cool) but for a much better consistancy over time. 7V @6.2A

Just loving this bulb +M6-4800 combo - The beam is just the way I like it with a good hot centre but some useful spill - and it is nice and smooth / spherical and to my eye not too much of a wide beam or flood at all !

CU-Later
Cheers Pete
 

cnjl3

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Deep in the heart of Texas
Hey Pete:
I remember a while back ago you were wondering if the M6 reflector "top" rubber seal would stand the heat of higher wattage bulbs.
Sure sounds like your osram bulb is running hotter than the stock HOLA.
Have you checked your seal for damage?
Or does it still look in good shape?

CYL (catch you later!)

Carlos:grin2:
 

petrev

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cnjl3 said:
Hey Pete:
I remember a while back ago you were wondering if the M6 reflector "top" rubber seal would stand the heat of higher wattage bulbs.
Sure sounds like your osram bulb is running hotter than the stock HOLA.
Have you checked your seal for damage?
Or does it still look in good shape?

CYL (catch you later!)

Carlos:grin2:

Hi Carlos

I've run the M6-64275 to very hot a few times and the rubber seems OK - just looking in the front end with a low power torch as I can't get the bezel to budge - must need a special tool to use the notches on the inside to get a good purchase on it ! Or SF have used a left-hand thread ? hope not ?

Anybody managed to get their SF-M6 head apart ?

Catch you on the flipside
Pete
 

wquiles

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Jan 10, 2005
Messages
8,459
Location
Texas, USA, Earth
petrev said:
Hi Carlos

I've run the M6-64275 to very hot a few times and the rubber seems OK - just looking in the front end with a low power torch as I can't get the bezel to budge - must need a special tool to use the notches on the inside to get a good purchase on it ! Or SF have used a left-hand thread ? hope not ?

Anybody managed to get their SF-M6 head apart ?

Catch you on the flipside
Pete
I have. It is using normal threads. It is just that they use some epoxy/sealant which must be warmed up before pulling apart. And then, as you stated, you need your own special tool to grab those plastic notches - easier said than done. I have some exploded pictures on the KT4 that I pulled apart if anyone is interested.

Will
 
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petrev

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wquiles said:
I have. It is using normal threads. It is just that they use some epoxy/sealant which must be warmed up before pulling apart. And then, as you stated, you need your own special tool to grab those plastic notches - easier said than done. I have some exploded pictures on the KT4 that I pulled apart if anyone is interested.

Will

Hi Will

Thanks for the info - any Pics. always useful to gain clues . . .

Cheers Pete
 

petrev

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WOW - Thanks Will

Lots of interesting things in there - now I really must get mine apart

Cheers Pete
 
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