There are a few threads on it in the 4sevens forum at the market place.
...A much bigger problem for me which nobody seems to care about is the startup voltage a circuit needs. Most lights can run for days on low but few people realise that it doesn't really matter if you can't turn your light on. For ex, if your battery is almost down and your running it on low and you turn it off cause you want to save battery, you wont be able to turn on the light again even though that the light would had continue to run for a couple of hours if you hadn't turned it off. In a survival situation this could be crucial. A direct driven light would had crammed all the juice out of that battery. Which makes me think that most runtime test on low levels are not that useful. At least that was the case with my old multi stage lights with circuits like Fenix L2D and Nitecore DI. Has that changed?
I know that the preflash is a pretty big issue here on CPF, but I don't get it. If it bothers you, there is such an easy fix, just cover the light in your hand etc when you turn it on.
A much bigger problem for me which nobody seems to care about is the startup voltage a circuit needs. Most lights can run for days on low but few people realise that it doesn't really matter if you can't turn your light on. For ex, if your battery is almost down and your running it on low and you turn it off cause you want to save battery, you wont be able to turn on the light again even though that the light would had continue to run for a couple of hours if you hadn't turned it off. In a survival situation this could be crucial. A direct driven light would had crammed all the juice out of that battery. Which makes me think that most runtime test on low levels are not that useful. At least that was the case with my old multi stage lights with circuits like Fenix L2D and Nitecore DI. Has that changed?
You mean that Quark working voltage is 0.9-4.2V, and if i leave my Quark AA on low it drains the battery below overdischarge protection which is at 0.9V?
Or do you mean that it needs more than 0.9V, if it needs, how much is it?
I have not noticed this kind of behaviour in my Fenix LD10, i need to run a few tests with it....
Oh, I know, there are scenarios when it's prefered that you can't suck your batteries dry. I'm just nitpicking, and was bringing up an "issue" many people don't think about. Personally, I would prefer if I could chose myself to turn of the battery. It would be ideal if there was a mode that was direct drive, and it was up to the user to care for the batteries. But this is as said just nitpicking. Overall I think the Quark seems to be a terrific light.I think we could find a scenario for any light that isn't perfect. For those using primary batteries having them sucked completely dry is no problem. However, for those using rechargables that is a problem. I personally like having the light maintain the same level of brightness on any given level for however long it can. That can be seen as a weakness in a "survival" situation but in others it is a Godsend. I have a couple of Fenix lights that just basically drop down in level to the closest they can regulate. For instance, if I am using turbo and the batts can't maintain regulation anymore it drops down to medium or low. I don't have my Quarks yet so I don't know how they will respond.
I ordered within the first couple of hours that the warm tacticals became available and I didn't receive a shipping notice.
Maybe tomorrow (I hope, I hope, I hope).
+1. Will give an overall impression of it 24 hours after it has been in hand. It will be my first warm tint and I am anxious to say the least.Got a "shipped" notice on my 123 Tactical Neutral Tint, no clip, this morning.