Question About Emisar Functionality - Flashing Aux Lights

Orion

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I have an Emisar D4V2 that just arrived in the mail today. I received an unprotected 18650 yesterday and charged it up.

I've been testing it and sometimes when I turn it off, it flashes red and blue several times before going back to the aux LED mode. What does that mean?
 
Have you read the manual? (not being a smart arse, just asking)
It seems to have color codes depending on the charge state or which mode you have it set to ...or both?
 
I just looked for a manual online and I found both instructions and some other info that might be useful. There's a utoob video also. Not sure how up to date it is as there seems to be a few different firmware. I'll let someone who knows what they're doing offer real help. LOL

Stand by ...
 
I have an Emisar D4V2 that just arrived in the mail today. I received an unprotected 18650 yesterday and charged it up.

I've been testing it and sometimes when I turn it off, it flashes red and blue several times before going back to the aux LED mode. What does that mean?
What is flashing red/blue? The auxiliary LEDs or the lights in the button?
 
I have an Emisar D4V2 that just arrived
Congratulations!
when I turn it off, it flashes red and blue several times before going back to the aux LED mode. What does that mean?
It is a new feature called Post Off Voltage Display. It runs for 3 seconds every time the light is turned off.

The colors are alternating because the Battery Voltage is trying to display Purple, (Red Plus Blue)

Green oval on right side of chart shows the color progression.. If you like to keep the feature On, I suggest recharging when your Aux get to Green (about 3.6V):

420 blank.png

I like to disable it... See Green Oval at bottom of chart.

This is how to disable it:
From Advanced mode (ask if you need instructions to get to Advanced mode), do 3C to start battery check (aux will blink out the voltage for example 4.16V is 4 blink, pause, 1 blink, pause, 6 blink).. while that is happening, if you do 7H and release at second flash, the light will flicker, waiting for input. Do No Input, and when the flicker times out, the Post Off Voltage Display will be disabled.

The Manual is here. Suggest reading through it one time.. without trying to remember any of it.. The flowchart will make more sense once you've read the manual. Will be happy to answer any Anduril questions.
 
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No, I've had several, but not with this type of setup.

For the Emisar I chose, I got the gray body, the 5000K, which seems more "yellow" to me. I have a High CRI light, de-domed XHP-70.3, and you can really tell how much more "yellow" the beam is, unless you put it on high.

The aux I got was the RGB. I like the way the tiny 8 LEDs look in the head!
 
I'm regretting the LED color, but it's too late now. If I get something else later, would I want 519A domed or de-domed? And what would me the difference in output?


Yeah, the tiny RGB is really good. Being able to choose several colors or rainbow make is fun for sure.
 
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would I want 519A domed or de-domed? And what would me the difference in output?
DeDoming costs about 13% less lumens.. I dont think it is noticeable. The main effect of dedoming is it makes the LED considerably warmer:

here are 3 pairs of domed and dedomed to show the color temperature drops:
40oZA5Q.jpeg
 
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5700k DD drops CCT substantial over other 519a
yes, I was suprised to see 4000K after DeDoming, a Domed 5700K (nominal). The drop from 5700K nominal, to 4000K actual, is 30% (larger % than I expected)..

The reason this happens is that LED bins do not contain exactly the CCT of the nominal binning. There is variation between the nominal binning CCT and actual CCT of individual LEDs

for example, some Domed 519a binned as 5700k, can actually measure 5200K, which is 9% less than nominal CCT..

HDS calls their 5700K 519a, "NA52", because the specific ones they tested in the particular batch of 5700K they bought, measured closer to 5200K

Not every 5700K (nominal) will drop to 4000K.. some can drop to 4200K.. (5% variationl in ending CCT)

There is also considerable variation in Tint DUV.. here are two DeDomed 4500K 519a of mine. The two LEDs came side by side in the same reel tape, but have significantly different Tint DUV: -0.0011 vs -0.0054.. The Tint Lottery is real. In this example the CCT are practically identical, but the Tint is "noticeably" different (to a Tint Snob).. ;-)
Screen Shot 2024-08-13 at 3.08.54 PM.png
 
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would I want 519A domed or de-domed?
you might like Domed 5000K 519a, I found a photo of one I had:
bggvi8n.jpg

It tested pretty high in Tint DUV: (and looked a bit greenish)
JNgSZrI.jpeg

which is why I usually DeDome, but dedomed they get warmer than Daylight White (5200K)
 
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It is a new feature called Post Off Voltage Display. It runs for 3 seconds every time the light is turned off.
Thank you for confirming this. I have been wondering why my Emisar DT8K and Noctigon K9.3 does this when turning the light off.

At first I thought there was a fault somewhere, where the aux LEDs did not immediately receive the proper signals, but when I noticed it was consistent when it happened - especially with a fresh battery - I figured it was related to the battery voltage level. And when the colour changed after some use, it was pretty much a certainty.

EDIT:
For tint, I am very happy with my Emisar lights! I have absolutely fallen in love with the E21A, but as a mix of 4500K and 3500K.

Went with 4500K in the DT8K, and 3500K in the K9.3. Felt the 4500K was a bit too cold, and the 3500K a bit too warm / yellowy.
But the 2 + 2 mix in the dual-channel DW4 (or 5 + 4 in the Fireflies PL47MU) is perfection! ❤️
 
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you might like Domed 5000K 519a, I found a photo of one I had:

It tested pretty high in Tint DUV: (and looked a bit greenish)
which is why I usually DeDome, but dedomed they get warmer than Daylight White (5200K)
Yeah, I believe I'd do the Domed 5000K 519A.

Thanks for the replies, everyone!
 

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