The SureFire 6PX/G2X Tactical and 6PX/G2X Pro Thread
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Toohotruk
Flashlight Enthusiast
That's the sad part...I didn't find out the Fury even existed until I already had four 6PX Pros, and a G2X Tactical. :scowl:
WebHobbit
Enlightened
I finally got my 6PXPro back from Surefire's warranty service. They sent me a whole new light still in the packaging. Is there someplace I can plug the serial number in and find out how new this is? Surely they didn't send me one from the run with bad tail-caps? I just opened it up and gave several good slaps....can't get it to change modes from a bump! Looks like I got a good one.
Xacto
Enlightened
I finally gave in and got myself a G2X Pro, since I was looking for a flashlight for walking with two modes. And I must admit that I really do like the Pro and its tint, even though I just discovered the preflash problem on my light. But I think I can live with it. Now I only need to give myself a good reason why a 6PX with its full alumium body would make any sense in my collection. Since there are no heat issues in the G2X lights, I see no really benefit in the 6PX type of body.
Cheers
Thorsten
Cheers
Thorsten
Has anyone had a long term issue with the G2X Tactical and an AW 17670 battery? I have been using said combo for a year (give or take) as a back up duty light. I just pulled the battery off the charger today and put it in the light, and I am getting maybe 1/4 of the light I am used to. I tried swapping regular CR123s and observed the same light patter. The output is way less than my old Surefire L7 on a battery that hasn't been charged in a long time. This is my first Surefire problem ever, despite owning 6 (6p, 9p, G2, G2X Tactical, L7, X300). I will try it again when I get home, but I am not happy about it.
Have you tried using primary CR123 batteries? You sure the problem has to do with the light and not the battery?
Ok, I came home and tried it again. The light would not come on at all at first with either the 17670 or cr123 primaries. I tested the battery in my 6p with thru night xml drop in and it worked perfectly, so I know the battery is good. I put fresh primaries in the g2x again and it worked perfectly all of a sudden. I then tried the 17670 again, and it turned on, but was extremely dull, almost to the point of unusable. Have I fried the circuitry in my light?
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It is highly unlikely that you have fried the emitter since a single 17670 only measure 4.2 volts fully charged, way below the 6 volts tested by Surefire.
Now, let's talk about your usage habits. Did you run it for prolonged period till the light gets hot on the head? It could be a case of the LED dying due to overheating issues. Afterall, the nitrolon body on the G2X Tactical isn't really a good heat sink for proper thermal transfer. Look into the LED. Do you see a darkened spot? Is the beam now bluish?
Now, let's talk about your usage habits. Did you run it for prolonged period till the light gets hot on the head? It could be a case of the LED dying due to overheating issues. Afterall, the nitrolon body on the G2X Tactical isn't really a good heat sink for proper thermal transfer. Look into the LED. Do you see a darkened spot? Is the beam now bluish?
No dark spots, and it worked just fine with fresh primaries after the initial failure to work just after getting home. Beam looks perfectly normal. The light did sit in a hot car all day, but I don't believe it received any direct sunlight, just sat inside the car (which is bloody hot here in Arizona). I have checked the battery in other lights, so I'm at a loss as to what has happened.
Try cleaning the metal contacts on the body tube and tail cap area with a Q tip and isopropyl alchohol. Maybe some loose grease is sticking on it causing poor electrical contact. Another thing you can try is pull out the spring on the tailcap a bit more as it may be a bit too compressed after long usage with the AW17670 cell. I realized my AW17670 is a tiny bit longer than 2 x CR123 put together so it could be possible that the spring might have been compressed. Honestly, I don't know what the problem is, but if doing all these could prevent you from sending the light back to SF, then I think it is worth it. Oh, and don't pull too hard on the spring. Last thing you want is the spring popping out and voiding your lifetime warranty.
Edit: forget the spring thing. I think if the spring is compressed, then CR123 shouldn't work as well but it still works in your case.
Edit: forget the spring thing. I think if the spring is compressed, then CR123 shouldn't work as well but it still works in your case.
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Ok, some weird voodoo is going on. After a few more attempts, I slowly put the battery back in, gently put the tail cap back on, and voila! it worked again. To ensure it was not a fluke, I took the battery back out and tried it again, only to find that it did not work again. More research led me to find that if I put the battery in with the label to one side (the AW 17670 will fit with label on, but only in two positions, as if there is more room on one side of the tube than the other) it will not work, but if I turn it around, it works normally. Very weird. I examined the inside, and it appears that the green circuit board on the backside of the head has slightly moved, exposing some of the metal on the backside of the head. I have no idea if this is what is causing the issue, but it would make sense that after being left in a hot car for a day, the heat could have shifted the board, making the contacts not as effective, depending on battery position. Of course, cr123s are not effected by this. Very very weird. No more leaving flashlights in cars, even my beloved surefire lights.
There's a wire trace on G2X, 6PX and Fury lights that when cut disables low mode on the Pro models. It comes cut from the factory on the single mode tactical models. In the P2X Fury thread someone bridged the cut trace on factory cut single mode light and it turned on in low mode, but unlike the two mode lights it would not go to high.
So my theory is that the larger 17670 battery is somehow bridging the connection causing the light to come on at a lower output. Maybe the broken trace wires shifted closer together after prolonged use. Just a theory. If true I'm sure you could use a pen or something to separate the wires a bit.
Look at posts: 738, 766, 771 in the P2X Fury thread for more info.
So my theory is that the larger 17670 battery is somehow bridging the connection causing the light to come on at a lower output. Maybe the broken trace wires shifted closer together after prolonged use. Just a theory. If true I'm sure you could use a pen or something to separate the wires a bit.
Look at posts: 738, 766, 771 in the P2X Fury thread for more info.
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I remember the trace wire thing. Sounds like a plausible explanation to me.
I picked up a G2X Pro at REI. It was $6 in the garage sale area - returned cause it wouldn't switch modes. I had pulled up Surefire's CS # and was ready to call when I thought I should check the batteries. 2.4 volts. 2 new 123's and it works great.
Only think I don't like is no clip or lanyard. Anyone attach a lanyard to it?
Only think I don't like is no clip or lanyard. Anyone attach a lanyard to it?
Toohotruk
Flashlight Enthusiast
WOW! That's a screamin' deal! Great score!
