The SureFire 6PX/G2X Tactical and 6PX/G2X Pro Thread

Mr. LED

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I don't recall anyone here using regular RCR123 on the G2X Pro, to see if the driver can handle it. However, try to run primaries and see if you can reproduce the problem.

Depending on how you use, how hot they get (hot cars for example) and other factors, one year can kill a battery.

Anyway I recommend you to use one 16650 battery, it has equal or more runtime than primary CR123, flat regulation and the voltage is safe.

The tailcap could be the culprit since you said it wasn't turning on recently. Try to clean all the contacts with isopropyl alcohol, and also isolate the tailcap out of que equation, turning on the light touching the negative from the battery to the body using a metal object like a paper clip.
 
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Toohotruk

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I recommend the 16650s too...I think someone on this forum tested them against primaries and against rcr123s (I may be wrong about the test including the RCR123s.) and they have better regulation and runtime than either of the other two options. That's all I use in my two CR123 Surefire lights...my Fury loves them!
 

Mr. LED

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Has anybody successfully replaced the emitter in a G2X? I have one of the 200 lumen with terrible tint and want to install a Nichia. But don't know where to start...
 

yazkaz

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Has anybody successfully replaced the emitter in a G2X? I have one of the 200 lumen with terrible tint and want to install a Nichia. But don't know where to start...
Unscrew head from body, then start from the frontal (lens) side.
Use a compatible bezel lens tool (eg. Oveready) to remove the (one piece?) crenellated bezel/plastic lens assembly. Then carefully remove the reflector.
After that you should be able to reach the emitter, probably mounted on a proprietary PCB. Work on that then reassemble everything back.

Sounds quite straight forward but depending on model batch (and color) the disassembly can be difficult due to presence of threadlock glue, which requires extensive heating to defeat.
 

Mr. LED

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Thanks, but the loctite scares me... and I have no idea how to reflow LED. I'll leave this to the experts.
 

thermal guy

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Just picked up a 6PX for next to nothing so figured I check it out. It's not a bad light and I have done some reading on this and can't see if there was a proper answer so how in the hell do I know what one I got? Lol 320 600 etc. it seems brighter then my 320 G2X or whatever it is. Is there a way to know? Current draw or markings or something? Thanks
 

Mr. LED

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The 600 lumens version has a serial number on the head. If the LED has a white square base with a tiny arrow on one corner, and no serial on the head, it's the 320 lumens. The 200 lumen has a smaller LED with a green square base.
 

Mr. LED

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The best version in my opinion. Flat regulation on CR123 or 16650, and the tint of the Nichia emitter is really nice.
 

thermal guy

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Ya it's a pretty nice light. Don't think I would of looked twice at it if I didn't get her dirt cheap. Probably just throw it in the glove box as a backup.
 

vr4corrado

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Would anyone know a reputable online store that is still selling the 15/320 lumen version. Id like to buy a couple as nightstand lights for the Mrs and I. Due to reading this thread a reading about fakes and counterfiets I was hoping someone might have some experience with any online vendors.

Thanks in advance for youe help.

RIP Woodswalker...The ultimate sacred bacon awaits you.
 

vr4corrado

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I find the 600 lumen ones everywhere with reputable sellers but the 320 have become hard to find.
 

sprocket2107

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So I just purchased a G2X Pro and was curious as to what the number etched under the D is? This is my first SureFire so I just want to make sure I actually received an authentic light. Also, any tips on identifying counterfeits?


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wicky998

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What's the bezel identification number? I'm looking to swap the bezel on mine just want to make sure I order the correct one if possible

Looking at the LF z44 , just want to make sure it fits


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