Thinking About Getting My First Surefire but Hesitating

[chmsam]

SF lights are way past overkill for most users. That's why even I have a 6P and an old E1e (and I am about as poor as anyone on this forum can probably be). They are virtually fail safe (there, is that OK for the nitpickers?) and require little maintenance to remain that way. The 123's are readily available at a reasonable price and have a shelf life of many years. When all else fails I know my SF lights won't. That's why I scraped and saved to buy the ones I have.

I'd say it's pretty much like the difference between something like a Chevy or a Dodge and a Rolls.

But get whatever you want. Buy a SF or don't, it's no skin off my nose. Forgive that attitude, and it isn't you, but threads like this come up way too often and always, always end up being exactly like this.

 

[Sean]

Of the two options you gave I would get the E2DL. However, I would personally recommend you look at the E2L. It's a very practical two-stage light that will run on high for almost 6 hours in regulation. The E2DL will only run about 90 minutes on high in regulation. So if you want the wow factor of a bright, 2 cell Surefire with a TIR then the E2DL is the one to get. You can still run it on low for great run-time. If, however you would rather have less output and more runtime then I personally would recommend the E2L because it's bright enough. I sold my E2DL and am now torn between the E2L and L1, although if I were camping or in a power outage or other emergency I would rather have the extra run-time of the E2L over the E2DL or L1. The L1 is another great light you should at least consider. It's the perfect size light for my hand, but it is a bit big for a single cell light. I'm actually waiting for the Titan T1A to come out, it will not doubt replace the L1 and go on the keychain and get more use than any of my other lights. The small size, Surefire warranty and the ability to choose any light output you want should make the T1A the perfect EDC for me, anyway. I just got to wait for it to actually be released now.

(note: In my own testing I have found the E2DL, L1 and E2L to produce higher than stated lumen output. In my tests the E2L output is more like 85 lumens on high and 9 lumens on low, the L1 is more like 76 lumens on high and 11 lumens on low and the E2DL was too high for my meter to measure accurately on high but low was 9 lumens.) So the approx. 85 lumens that my E2L produces is enough for me. :thumbsup:

I would also recommend a F04 beamshaper for whichever light you get (fits all 1" bezel lights). It gives a nice diffused wall of light when you need a flood light for close up work.

 

[LightJaguar]

Are you 100% sure or just guessing?


EDIT: You have no facts to backup your claim, so why say it?

Surefires do fail and you should not "trust your life" to them. I've had a number of mine fail, mostly the switches. Great costumer service though.

As for liquidman I would not get a 6P if you already have a solarforce. They are pretty much the same thing and I actually prefer the Solarforce L2 over the 6P.
Maybe you should give the C2 a try with a Malkoff M60. Out of all my Surefires this is my favorite light.

 

[PetaBread]

I never said to "trust your life" to them. Just because your lights fail

doesn't mean everyone else has the same problem. I just asked a simple

question, which was how sure he was, nothing else.

:duck:

 

[divine]

In my opinion, get the Surefire and plan on using it as an emergency light.

I haven't found a good EDC Surefire light. Others buy holsters and go out of their way to carry Surefires that don't seem to be designed for carrying at all.

I carried a L1 in my pocket one time, and its aggressive knurling scratched the thousand dollar, plastic, medical device that keeps me alive; which I carry in my pocket. I have clipped an E1L to my pocket while working around the house a few times, and it has fallen out of my pocket a few times, but that is my entire history of carrying Surefire lights.

I've had much better luck carrying Dereelights, RA, and Nitecore lights.

You probably won't have a problem. You carry what you like, and the light that comes out of a 6PL and a E2DL isn't night and day compared to your other lights.

 

[Phill]

Upgrade the Solaforce with an awesome drop in (Malkoff for example) and then get a SureFire that is different from what you have (if you really need to get a SF).

Put it this way, there is that guy earlier in the thread who loved his SureFire so much he has changed every part of it except the head. Now, thats not having a dig at him, thats saying your Solarforce is an awesome host for some great aftermarket bits - essentially you can have the same light as him, just yours will have a different logo on the head and will be a little cheaper.

Thats what id do first and then id look into an E2DL etc. If nothing else, isnt there a bunch of new SureFires coming on the market in a few months, which will drive down prices, especially in the second hand market.

 

[325addict]

I had the same a few months ago. When I asked which Surefire to go for then, me was told to get the C2. I got the C3 instead, and never, ever regretted that decision a single second

The C3 has one major advantage over the C2: it will take two 17500 rechargeables, AND you can drop in (nearly?) any D26 dropin.

If I would be 700 feet under the ground, I would make a light that consists of the following parts:

1. a SureFire C3 Centurion HA III,
2. two AW 17500s, with two more as a spare,
3. some warm-tint Malkoff Devices D26 dropin.

Otherwise, I would leave the stock P90 incan in place, because it's both bright and has all the right color of the light

AND OF COURSE I would have at least(!) one backup, an L1 Lumamax for example. This one I own already, so that's simple


Timmo.

 

[Kestrel]

The C3 has one major advantage over the C2: it will take two 17500 rechargeables, AND you can drop in (nearly?) any D26 dropin.

If I would be 700 feet under the ground, I would make a light that consists of the following parts:

1. a SureFire C3 Centurion HA III,
2. two AW 17500s, with two more as a spare,
3. some warm-tint Malkoff Devices D26 dropin.

AND OF COURSE I would have at least(!) one backup, an L1 Lumamax for example. This one I own already, so that's simple

A big +1 here, that is ideal and pretty much exactly my primary light.
Another +1, as that is just about the perfect backup light and one of my backups. Smaller than the E2DL, so it will carry better as a backup IMO.

LSM, instead of getting a 6PL, you might want to get a Malkoff M60 drop-in for your Solarforce like Phill said. You can always use the M60 for many other SF hosts later, like the C2/C3 series for example.

 

[Sgt. LED]

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[Liquidspaceman]

Thanks for the recos.

I think I may get that Malkoff upgrade for the Solarforce after the input here.

However, I still think I should get a Surefire for the sake of having one. Don't ask me why I need to have one.

After going through the archives, I actually saw the L2 and L4 models. I am really liking the idea of the WALL OF LIGHT after seeing those beamshots. Wow.

It's 60 more than I planned to spend, but wow. If anybody owns an L2 and L4, can you confirm that the L2 has the same type of "Wall of Light" as the L4? From what I understand they are similar beams but just the L2 has 2 modes. Am I correct?

Thanks.

***EDITED****

Found a link on L4 vs L2, so I can just use that for reference. If anybody else wants to give opinions you are welcome, but I think this thread should help me immensely. Thanks again.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/63484

 

[RobertM]

If you're only going to have one SureFire (yeah right, SF's are like a drug once you get your first one), I'd say go for a SF C3 Hard Anodized.

My first "real" flashlight and first SF was a 6PL. I've since purchased the list of SF and other lights that are listed below in my signature. If you are going to use the lights in the woods a lot, I think you will love the P90 lamp is comes with. Plus, if you are concerned with going through CR123 cells, just use 2x AW 17500 cells with the P90. You gotta love 105, guilt free incandescent lumens :twothumbs (I run this 2x17500 + P90 setup in my SF G3 and it is my "go to" outdoors light).

If you are looking for a great example of what a SureFire is, get the C3 HA (or the C2 HA if you really want a 2 cell light). Both lights are excellent hosts for drop-ins, are high quality, feel great in your hand, and are built like tanks.

But will all that being said, if I had to get rid of ALL my flashlights but one, I'd keep my SureFire A2 Aviator (YG) :laughing:

-Robert

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

If you're only going to have one SureFire (yeah right, SF's are like a drug once you get your first one), I'd say go for a SF C3 Hard Anodized.

My first "real" flashlight and first SF was a 6PL. I've since purchased the list of SF and other lights that are listed below in my signature. If you are going to use the lights in the woods a lot, I think you will love the P90 lamp is comes with. Plus, if you are concerned with going through CR123 cells, just use 2x AW 17500 cells with the P90. You gotta love 105, guilt free incandescent lumens :twothumbs (I run this 2x17500 + P90 setup in my SF G3 and it is my "go to" outdoors light).

If you are looking for a great example of what a SureFire is, get the C3 HA (or the C2 HA if you really want a 2 cell light). Both lights are excellent hosts for drop-ins, are high quality, feel great in your hand, and are built like tanks.

But will all that being said, if I had to get rid of ALL my flashlights but one, I'd keep my SureFire A2 Aviator (YG) :laughing:

-Robert

+1

Agreed 100%.

 

[Sgt. LED]

:twothumbs

 

[Strauss]

I still say go for the E2DL. The Surefire C-series is very nice, don't get me wrong, but I think since you already have a decent P60 based host that you should get something a little different.

The E2DL is stupid bright for it's size, with some pushing over 200 lumens out the front on high! And the fact that it's much smaller than most other 2xCR123 lights makes it that more appealing.

And yes, I do have a Surefire C3 also so I can relate to the others. I just thnk since you are "new" to the flashlight game, having a well rounded selection is key.

 

[Convert]

I'm new here, but I thought that I'd chime in. Surefires are AWESOME tools for what they are. However, someone already mentioned a very good point - they are great at what they do well, and pretty crappy at what they don't do well. Fit and finish? Quality? Second to none. Reliability? Excellent. Output? Not the greatest. Runtime? Again, not spectacular but not horrible either with a regular P60 lamp.

I say if you're eyballing a 6P, grab one. Why not? They aren't terribly expensive, and if you jump in at the right moment on an e-bay auction, they can be had for as little as $30-$40.

If you're not thrilled with the 6P's output, you can either A) go back to the solarforce, get a Malkoff drop-in, a few 18650 batteries and a charger, and take the Z41 tailcap off of the 6P and throw it on the L2 and presto. Your reliability on the L2 just skyrocketed thanks to the better switch.

OR

B), have the 6P bored out to fit 18650 batteries for $15, and get a Malkoff drop-in, batteries and charger for it.

I guess there is also a third option - you can do what I did, and buy a Surefire Z41 tailcap for $20 on e-bay and put it on your L2. I'm running a DX drop in right now, but saving up for a Malkoff and some 18650s and a Pila IBC charger. That would be a pretty reliable setup.

Oh, and if you're doing anything where your life could depend on your light (like finding your way out of a 700 foot deep cave, for example), pick a reliable primary light, then pack a spare. And then, pack another spare. Anyone who believes that Surefires (or any other man-made mechanical device) are completely fail-proof is quite foolish. I'm sorry if that offends anyone, but any company that makes a mass-produced item is bound to crank out a lemon at some point. Those are just the facts of life, and Surefire is no exception to that rule. And I am absolutely 100% certain of this. I will never say "this [insert brand name or item here] will ALWAYS function as it's supposed to", because sooner or later, it won't. Hell, my G2 could work until the day I die, but I'm sure not betting any money on it! Having a couple of good backups will always save your hide when Murphy decides to pay a visit.

Better to have it and not need it, than need it and be screwed. :laughing:

 

[Kestrel]

I think I may get that Malkoff upgrade for the Solarforce after the input here.

However, I still think I should get a Surefire for the sake of having one. Don't ask me why I need to have one.

After going through the archives, I actually saw the L2 and L4 models. I am really liking the idea of the WALL OF LIGHT after seeing those beamshots. Wow.

It's 60 more than I planned to spend, but wow. If anybody owns an L2 and L4, can you confirm that the L2 has the same type of "Wall of Light" as the L4? From what I understand they are similar beams but just the L2 has 2 modes. Am I correct?

The thread you reference was written before the latest generation of emitters, for the most part. I have a modest collection of SF's, and unfortunately my L2 is my least-favorite SF and gets the least use.



At the risk of getting flamed,

• Outdated relatively-inefficient emitter (one of the last if not the last Luxeon in SF's line)
• 100/15 lumens, into such a wide floody beam, is very unimpressive, my least impressive light. All my other non-NIB SF's are running higher-output Malkoff's or Cree / Seoul emitters, with considerably higher efficiency.
• The same length (relatively long) as my C3 but only holds two cells rather than three.
• Not sure if it can even fit 1x17670, some do & some don't.
• Outperformed by my L1 (a considerably smaller package) for pretty much all of my uses.
• Many L2's have a somewhat greenish tint, from what I read. Mine does as well, all of my other SF's have a nicer (whiter) tint.

It does have the best switch, but you also get that in the SF L1.

I also notice that SF L2's on CPF/Marketplace are fetching about the lowest resale prices of any SF as a percentage of their initial price.

I've used my L2 a lot, and it just doesn't do it for me. You really have to have a thing for flood, as most of the other SF's really do outperform it (at least for my uses), both on paper and in real life.

I know some folks here will take issue with what I've written, here I am baring my soul… I only ask, flame me only if you have used the SF L2, a Malkoff M60, and a SF L1 (Cree). For me, the L2 comes in a distant third.:sigh: There just isn't enough lumens for me in that very wide beam.

Edit: Yes, I know the beams fill different niches. However, I prefer the spill from my M60 or even my M60LL to the flood from the L2.

 

[american lockpicker]

seeing how the reputable import lights are getting to be around 70 to 100 dollars, there is even less incentive to not buy a domestically made one.

+1

 

[carrot]

Take what tailcap off and put it on the L2? There's only one type of tailcap that will fit on the L2 and that is the same one that is on it, and the L1 and A2. It's also one of Surefire's most reliable tailcaps.

The L2 is an old light, and may have not yet been updated. If it has been updated you will find somewhere on the Surefire site it should say "L2A" instead of "L2". It is still a good light but it will not pack as much of a punch as it would if it had a new LED in it... which you could always mod yourself or pay someone to. An MC-E or P7 would do wonders in the L2.

Meanwhile the L4 (or L4A) has a new LED in it (SSC P4) which sort of changes the "wall of light" to be a bit more throwy and a bit less floody.

My favorite EDC light used to be the A2... even after I'd gotten the L2. Now my EDC tastes have changed and if I were to pick out any Surefire from the lineup it would be the E1B or the L1. Out of the 2-cells I might even take another A2, or go with the E2L or even E2DL.

I love Surefires and I have tons of them everywhere: in my bag, on my desk, on my bike, etc... and I wouldn't have it any other way.

 

[PetaBread]

 

[Liquidspaceman]

So are there any "Wall of Light" flashlights still being made with newer emitters or was that WOL just a product of old emitters and technology?

Would love a super bright, floody beam... surefire preferably.

Keep in mind I will probably still get the E2L or E2DL but just wondering about SF's with massive flood. I hate to take my own thread off topic, but any other lights out there provide that "wall of light" I'm looking for?