Ti Caribbean, Thanks Robyn and Curt!!!!!

[MWClint]

I've been buying mostly the brass peaks..but this time i tried something
different and ordered a Ti Caribbean. This peak is putting out 800mah
to a 4000K neutral seoul, same as the brass one next to it. one has a 17mm
khatod+gitd oring, the other a cut 17mm ims+nylon spacer.


Both of these are Caribbeans. IMO the Carribean's size is a perfect EDC form
factor and very bright on rcr. I'm pushing the high cri p4 to max spec in these,
and the caribbeans handle it beautifully.

Compared to Brass, the Ti Carib weighs almost nothing. I'm going to have to
grab a Ti Rainier + Pacific soon if they are still available. I really like the Ti
head machining style..it's like a totally different light than the brass version!
The Ti lights still have the special Aerospace engravings as they did
in the Ti Collector set.

the 4000K Neutral P4 is currently my favorite led. The color renditioning
of the neutral leds are amazing. Makes it hard to use anything else.

 

[RAGE CAGE]

Beautiful Light......no need for your dremel on this work of art!
Thinking about a Pacific XLR AA.....45 hrs runtime- awesome -only 10 days left on the sale..
Nice to see Curt's input on here. I wonder if they are done with the convention lights (600?) that they had to crank out.

Beamshots?

 

[MWClint]

Thinking about a Pacific XLR AA.....45 hrs runtime- awesome

Beamshots?

Do it. The XLR P4 is great..I have a Brass XLR P4 head with an HA pocket AA
and a brass cr2 body. i use it with the AA all the time to wander around the
house, usually around 5 minutes at a time...still on the original eneloop
charge from months ago. :laughing: i just checked the batt voltage in this
light..it is at 1.27v... still got a lot of light left.

definitly no dremeling on the Ti Carib. ive recently done some dremel work
to another Ti light..it was a looooong and slow process and it flared up my
carpal tunnel for a few days. gotta be careful about that.

I'm working on beamshots for the Ti Carib..i still need to get some more seoul
specific reflectors. The cut down ims work great on the uniformly tinted p4's
(ie U-bin)..but not as clean on the high cri or U2-bin. I do like the 17mm
Khatods and they are a direct drop in. I have them in my pacfic edc and the
brass caribs. the 20mm ims however kicks serious butt in the rainiers with the 4000K seouls.

on a side note, usually the 4000K seouls have a very low vf...but i found one
in the bunch with a 3.7v vf @800ma. at first i put it aside, thinking i got a
dud, but in use it has been living at 1.2amps DD'd on an RCR123. It's
crazy bright and not turning blue! at 1.4amps it will tint shift, ive tried and
blown some in testing.

 

[Henk_Lu]

The Ti Carribean is a very interesting light and I just sent Robyn and Curt a mail, as I'm completely lost on their website...

I hope I get an answer, I just can't order just like that without knowing what I really get and what I could have gotten. I'm currently getting rid of that Fenixes and looking for custom Ti lights. If

@ MWClint : If I understood right, you put in that P4 high CRI yourself? That's just what I'm looking for, high CRI... :huh:

What is the original P4, a "normal" cool white I guess?

Greets,

Henk

 

[MWClint]

@ MWClint : If I understood right, you put in that P4 high CRI yourself? That's just what I'm looking for, high CRI... :huh:

What is the original P4, a "normal" cool white I guess?

Greets,

Henk

it's a bit tricky in the carribbeans to do a led swap. the head is deep and thin,
gotta use a small iron and take your time not to mar the head while trying to pop out the cool seoul.

in general, i find that with the high cri seouls, an McR-16s reflector works
better than the smooth 17mm ims and khatods. the orange peeled reflector
helps to mix the cooler hotspot with the warmer corona of the high cri seoul.

A downside is that the reflector is shorter, so you have to double up on the lens orings to fit the peaks. when i use the McR-16s in caribbeans, i just put
an oring on each side of the lens.
with the pacific, the led is recessed into the heatsink, so i flip over the
pacific's heatsink and then epoxy the new led to the backside, this raises the led some..and just use a slightly thicker than stock oring with the McR-16s.
you could also take up some slack by using a thick ucl lens, ive done this
in one caribbean.

I also screw on the bezel backwards so the notches face inward. you have to
use a dental pick to remove the bezel after doing this..but it removes the two indentations on the outer edge of the beam. Seeing the notch free bezels
of the Eiger gave me the idea to install it this way. no need to do this on the med/atlantic/rainier.

Brass carib with momentary+high cri+ucl+mcr16s+gitd lens orings is one of my most useful edc's. perfect size for carry too.

 

[Henk_Lu]

Thanks for the explanations! Unfortunately, I'm not a homeworker and I must take the lights more or less as they come.

Yesterday, I ordered a Ti Caribbean, let's see...

 

[MWClint]

Thanks for the explanations! Unfortunately, I'm not a homeworker and I must take the lights more or less as they come.

Yesterday, I ordered a Ti Caribbean, let's see...

oh nice! :thumbsup:

for the Ti threads, do the baking soda technique. i had started off using
teflon tape..but it rips up too easily..baking soda mixed with your favorite
lube works great, i use Arm and Hammer baking soda+PTFE lubricant.
it's been great on all my Ti twisty lights.

baking soda method described here->
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=234356

 

[toby_pra]

Very nice Caribbean!

 

[Henk_Lu]

Baking soda? I may give that a try! Indeed, ti-threads are difficult to get smoothy.

As for the Ti Caribbean, I don't know too much about it. I tried to find out here in the subforum, as the website from Peak, well, let's say... lacks of information! :candle:

The light is very nice, so I decided to order it blindly, but with some questions. I didn't get an answer until now. As far as I thought to have found out, the light will be given a specified output? So, I said I want neither too much, to get some runtime, not nor enough, something in between that makes a good compromise for a light used in and around the house...