To Zebralight

[Tachead]

Not quite. It's a 12V low-CRI emitter compared to a 6V mid-CRI emitter. No doubt the XHP50 is somewhat more efficient, but it's making 80% more light at near-identical battery drain. I maintain that the Wizard's driver does not look bad in this comparison.

The Prime, on the other hand is terribly inefficient. I've been meaning to swap emitters in mine and see if that holds.

Well, there is no set definition of at what number high CRI starts at that I am aware of but, the Wizard is around 70CRI and the ZL is around 85CRI. , I forgot the Easywhite version of the XM-L2 was 6V(most XM-L2's are 3V). Either way, it's not a fair comparison and should be taken with a grain of salt. You have to compare apples to apples and that's what the comparison of the Prime to the SC600 MKIII that I showed is. It should be noted too that the Wizard still gets crazy hot and has the same inefficient thermal management as the Prime. I would guess it's driver is not much different or advanced. I suspect if you compared it to one of ZL's XHP50 offerings you would see the same shortcomings as with the Prime.

 

[jon_slider]

Tachead
Thank you for taking the time to educate me with a detailed response and examples. I agree with you, from now on I will refer to Zebras as Potted with thermally conductive, flexible, removable Silicone. Not hard epoxy potting like Malkoff uses.

maukka
Thank you also for helping me learn to be more accurate. I especially appreciate the way you offer correct alternatives, when pointing out a less accurate image I have used in the past.

This is a very educational thread, and I am grateful to all the people contributing to my better education.

Happy HolyDaze

 

[Woods Walker]

I think you mean the standard "old" UI. The new UI is fully programmable.

Hard to say as for me "old" UI means my H50 purchased a decade ago. I was talking about my SC5w and a 1XCR123 headlamp I tried around camp. The headlamp was brought by another hunter but didn't inquire as to the model. Was all flood.. maybe H302. I don't care for the UI all that much but if there is a newer newer one might look into it. Also my window became a bit hazy soon after purchase. I think it was assembled in a high humidity environment and it wouldn't surprise me if a few other ZL owners had the same issue. For some unknown reason I had batteries totally drained inside the light when not used. As in totally unexpected. I have not spent the time to determine if the new Duraloop was the problem (tried a few but from the same group) or user error. Or something else. Just locked it out when not being used and without further testing I can't blame the light.

On the pro side it is a marvel of technology. 14500 (2.96 watt hours)brightness out of a NiMH (3 watt hours). Sure they have comparable watt hours but not the same voltage.

One NiMH AA. This is amazing IMHO.

I don't know if the tail cap is as drop resistant compared to a nice spring but kinda like it. Maybe a spring option for those who really crave that but this is kinda cool.

Good under water as well. I did scratch the window a bit but that was done when doing a friction fire intoxicated. Long story.

 

[Tachead]

Tachead
Thank you for taking the time to educate me with a detailed response and examples. I agree with you, from now on I will refer to Zebras as Potted with thermally conductive, flexible, removable Silicone. Not hard epoxy potting like Malkoff uses.

maukka
Thank you also for helping me learn to be more accurate. I especially appreciate the way you offer correct alternatives, when pointing out a less accurate image I have used in the past.

This is a very educational thread, and I am grateful to all the people contributing to my better education.

Happy HolyDaze

No problem:thumbsup:.

After further investigation I am going to guess the second example I posted is the potting compound ZL uses. It is specifically for LED and Driver Boards. Here is a picture and a link to the spec sheet...

http://www.dowcorning.com/DataFiles/090276fe80259705.pdf

When I hear back from ZL I will post if my guess is right and if not what they do use.

 

[Nichia!]

Bad News, Battery Rattle Still Exists.

 

[Tachead]

Bad News, Battery Rattle Still Exists.

Most brands of lights have some battery rattle if you shake hard enough. It's an easy fix if it bothers you. Just add a layer or two of extra heat shrink to the cell, problem solved. Or, just stop violently shaking your lights from side to side and just use them.

https://www.illumn.com/batteries-ch...battery-pvc-wrap-clear-pre-cut-10-pieces.html

 

[noboneshotdog]

Bad News, Battery Rattle Still Exists.

The good news is in the new SC600 IV HI I was able to shake and bang the light on my hand with force without losing connection or denting my Sony VTC6 battery. Nice work ZL!